Fan Shroud hits 1952 F1, Flathead with Edelbrock 2x2 intake
#1
Fan Shroud hits 1952 F1, Flathead with Edelbrock 2x2 intake
So I was rapidly working to fire up my rebuilt engine on my frame just to hear her run and to tune the carbs. But I faced a minor setback. This forum is to share lessons learned and ideas, so here is one.
I realized that on the right side of the fan shroud, I had about 1 1/2" of clearance from the blade tips to the shroud. On the left side, the tips are touching. I looked at everything. Of course there is no adjustment to speak of on the radiator. And the shroud only moves vertically, not horizontally. I had this same intake on my truck back in high school with an 8BA block, same radiator frame, same fan hub, same style motor mounts, everything. However I had bought a pristine new fan shroud since my original was cut and beat all to heck by the PO.
In frustration, I loosened the hoses and frame bolts and snatched the whole assembly off of the frame.
It was then that I figured out that on the original cast iron intake, the fan mounting is down the center but on the Edelbrock 2x2 intake, it is offset about 3/4". I am embarrassed to admit that I never knew this.
I've pulled the shroud off and I'm gonna put the radiator back in so I can crank her, but longer term I'm gonna have to figure something out before I get around to putting the front cap on
1. Run without a shroud. Not really an option since in the city it will definitely run hot.
2. Hammer and beat the shroud I have to make it work. This is an original 1952 shroud. I figure it deserves better than that
3. Make spacers that will offset the shroud to the radiator 3/4" to the left. I like this option, but the radiator hose cutouts and bottom fan shroud will be off and hit the the lower hoses. Hammering and beating will still be required.
4. Take my shroud to a sheet metal shop and pay them to make me one just like the one I have, except, move the fans shroud hole 3/4" to the left, with everything else the same. I figure this will cost between $100-$300. But as we all know who work on old trucks, any problem can be fixed with cotton fiber paper and green ink!!
5. I have a spare fan or two, I could cut 3/4" off the blade tips. But being a mechanical engineer, I'm not a big fan of this option.
Any other option y'all recommend? I'm leaning toward either 3 or 4. Most likely 4
Thank
Keith
I realized that on the right side of the fan shroud, I had about 1 1/2" of clearance from the blade tips to the shroud. On the left side, the tips are touching. I looked at everything. Of course there is no adjustment to speak of on the radiator. And the shroud only moves vertically, not horizontally. I had this same intake on my truck back in high school with an 8BA block, same radiator frame, same fan hub, same style motor mounts, everything. However I had bought a pristine new fan shroud since my original was cut and beat all to heck by the PO.
In frustration, I loosened the hoses and frame bolts and snatched the whole assembly off of the frame.
It was then that I figured out that on the original cast iron intake, the fan mounting is down the center but on the Edelbrock 2x2 intake, it is offset about 3/4". I am embarrassed to admit that I never knew this.
I've pulled the shroud off and I'm gonna put the radiator back in so I can crank her, but longer term I'm gonna have to figure something out before I get around to putting the front cap on
1. Run without a shroud. Not really an option since in the city it will definitely run hot.
2. Hammer and beat the shroud I have to make it work. This is an original 1952 shroud. I figure it deserves better than that
3. Make spacers that will offset the shroud to the radiator 3/4" to the left. I like this option, but the radiator hose cutouts and bottom fan shroud will be off and hit the the lower hoses. Hammering and beating will still be required.
4. Take my shroud to a sheet metal shop and pay them to make me one just like the one I have, except, move the fans shroud hole 3/4" to the left, with everything else the same. I figure this will cost between $100-$300. But as we all know who work on old trucks, any problem can be fixed with cotton fiber paper and green ink!!
5. I have a spare fan or two, I could cut 3/4" off the blade tips. But being a mechanical engineer, I'm not a big fan of this option.
Any other option y'all recommend? I'm leaning toward either 3 or 4. Most likely 4
Thank
Keith
#2
Are you going to run an alternator? No clearance issues with the carbs?
I think you have two choices; either make a new shroud (it's not that hard if you farm out the "barrel" around the fan), or get a manifold that doesn't have the offset. The shroud is less work. I don't think it would be as much as you think if you had a sheet metal shop make it.
I think you have two choices; either make a new shroud (it's not that hard if you farm out the "barrel" around the fan), or get a manifold that doesn't have the offset. The shroud is less work. I don't think it would be as much as you think if you had a sheet metal shop make it.
#3
Ross,
I'm gonna run a flathead generator. I rewired my original generator for 12volts. I was asked why I didn't just run an electric fan and get rid of the belt driven fan. Two reasons. I don't want to add the extra amperage to the charging system. I also am old school and want the mechanical fan.
The Edelbrock manifold and carburetor setup that I'm using was as given to me as birthday present almost 30 years ago, so it has sentimental value to me. I don't want to buy a different one.
I'm gonna find a local sheet metal shop to see if they will make me one for me. I got an email quote from Brassworks for $195. I figured they would be on the high end.
In the mean time, I'm going forward putting the radiator back together without the shroud so I can crank her up.
Thanks,
Keith
I'm gonna run a flathead generator. I rewired my original generator for 12volts. I was asked why I didn't just run an electric fan and get rid of the belt driven fan. Two reasons. I don't want to add the extra amperage to the charging system. I also am old school and want the mechanical fan.
The Edelbrock manifold and carburetor setup that I'm using was as given to me as birthday present almost 30 years ago, so it has sentimental value to me. I don't want to buy a different one.
I'm gonna find a local sheet metal shop to see if they will make me one for me. I got an email quote from Brassworks for $195. I figured they would be on the high end.
In the mean time, I'm going forward putting the radiator back together without the shroud so I can crank her up.
Thanks,
Keith
#4
You may be fine without the shroud. I have run F-1s with and without shrouds in Texas. The only time I really liked having a shroud is when I was running one hard at high speed or pulling a heavy load and had to stop and idle. Otherwise the stock fan without shroud got me by. Try it before you decide you need to spend more money.
#5
#6
It was then that I figured out that on the original cast iron intake, the fan mounting is down the center but on the Edelbrock 2x2 intake, it is offset about 3/4". I am embarrassed to admit that I never knew this.
- Run without a shroud. Not really an option since in the city it will definitely run hot.
- Hammer and beat the shroud I have to make it work. This is an original 1952 shroud. I figure it deserves better than that
- Make spacers that will offset the shroud to the radiator 3/4" to the left. I like this option, but the radiator hose cutouts and bottom fan shroud will be off and hit the the lower hoses. Hammering and beating will still be required.
- Take my shroud to a sheet metal shop and pay them to make me one just like the one I have, except, move the fans shroud hole 3/4" to the left, with everything else the same. I figure this will cost between $100-$300. But as we all know who work on old trucks, any problem can be fixed with cotton fiber paper and green ink!!
- I have a spare fan or two, I could cut 3/4" off the blade tips. But being a mechanical engineer, I'm not a big fan of this option.
#7
Thanks Pete,
I thought about an electric fan, but I'd rather not for two reasons.
1) - I'm old school, I want to see a fan on the front of an engine. Just my personal preference.
2) - I didn't go with a 12v alternator. I converted my original flathead generator from 6v to 12. I'd rather not add the amperage draw of an electric fan if I can avoid it.
I'm gonna start without a shroud and will probably find a beat up original I can modify or have a sheet metal shop make one for me.
Thanks
Keith
I thought about an electric fan, but I'd rather not for two reasons.
1) - I'm old school, I want to see a fan on the front of an engine. Just my personal preference.
2) - I didn't go with a 12v alternator. I converted my original flathead generator from 6v to 12. I'd rather not add the amperage draw of an electric fan if I can avoid it.
I'm gonna start without a shroud and will probably find a beat up original I can modify or have a sheet metal shop make one for me.
Thanks
Keith
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