2002 E350 psd 7.3
#1
#2
#3
Which Y pipe are you referring to? The one from the turbo compressor outlet to the CAC boots or the Y pipe at the top of the exhaust up pipes (called a baby's butt because it looks like one)? Also, can you specify how it is leaking?
#5
The compressor side of the turbo is the side where your wheel compresses intake air and forces it into the plenums. I know where you mean though. Since you said "up pipes", you mean the exhaust side. There are donut gaskets (one on each side, that need to be replaced every couple years. You can buy them fairly cheap and keep replacing them. I know that's a PITA though. Some guys use cheby small block donuts because they're a little thicker. The permanent leak free fix is to install bellowed up pipes. You can search that and find lots of info. They have expanding bellows welded in instead of the stupid donuts. They come with the Y section and all the necessary bolts. The options range from International bellowed up pipes from RiffRaff or DieselOrings for around $360; the Dorman up pipes from Rock Auto or Parts Geek are around $150; and you can also find them in stainless if rust is a big concern but I can't remember where.
I went with the Dormans and while I was at it, I wrapped mine with 2 layers of 2" wide header wrap, painted over the dried wrap with several coats of high heat protective silicone spray paint and wrapped over that with high heat tape with flame proof adhesive. Sounds like a-lot but it's fairly easy to do. Why? Because either ceramic coated (expensive!) or wrapped up pipes hold heat inside your pipes where you want it and your turbo spools up faster as a result. I did this, in addition to adding a turbo blanket, and triple wrapped my down pipe for 3 reasons. 1: Performance, 2: Under hood heat reduction. (I have Frx - regulated fuel return lines that I added. The rear driver's side line is very close to the up pipe. Other rear oil seal o-rings, the firewall, etc. are also fairly close and the extreme heat doesn't do them any favors!) Reason 3: Sound reduction in the cab. After wrapping all of the above, my 10 yr old son asked if we got a new stereo and better speakers! I now have car like phone conversations too! There are plenty of good write ups with install tips no matter which way you go. Hope that helps!
I went with the Dormans and while I was at it, I wrapped mine with 2 layers of 2" wide header wrap, painted over the dried wrap with several coats of high heat protective silicone spray paint and wrapped over that with high heat tape with flame proof adhesive. Sounds like a-lot but it's fairly easy to do. Why? Because either ceramic coated (expensive!) or wrapped up pipes hold heat inside your pipes where you want it and your turbo spools up faster as a result. I did this, in addition to adding a turbo blanket, and triple wrapped my down pipe for 3 reasons. 1: Performance, 2: Under hood heat reduction. (I have Frx - regulated fuel return lines that I added. The rear driver's side line is very close to the up pipe. Other rear oil seal o-rings, the firewall, etc. are also fairly close and the extreme heat doesn't do them any favors!) Reason 3: Sound reduction in the cab. After wrapping all of the above, my 10 yr old son asked if we got a new stereo and better speakers! I now have car like phone conversations too! There are plenty of good write ups with install tips no matter which way you go. Hope that helps!
Last edited by VOODOO7.3; 04-26-2016 at 10:18 PM. Reason: Predictive text gets me every time!
#6
Just wanted to add that they're not bad at all to do compared to the trucks. Not sure what your mileage is but while they're removed, it's fairly easy to access the engine, turbo, pedestal, etc, if it needs anything else. I would also recommend checking out diesel stop forum as well since help and info about working on diesel vans is scarce! A lot of guys here are on both. Over there, you would have had 10 replies already in the van forum! Just my .02 though. I love this forum, for a-lot of reasons, but generally, working on a diesel van is usually like brain surgery! Up pipes are easier on them though, so this time, you win! Cheers!
#7
Just wanted to add that they're not bad at all to do compared to the trucks. Not sure what your mileage is but while they're removed, it's fairly easy to access the engine, turbo, pedestal, etc, if it needs anything else. I would also recommend checking out diesel stop forum as well since help and info about working on diesel vans is scarce! A lot of guys here are on both. Over there, you would have had 10 replies already in the van forum! Just my .02 though. I love this forum, for a-lot of reasons, but generally, working on a diesel van is usually like brain surgery! Up pipes are easier on them though, so this time, you win! Cheers!
I have 138,000 miles on my van. The up pipes were replaced once under warranty. (2005)
THANK YOU so much for the detailed answer. I will probably go with the international up pipes. I'm looking for a permanent fix. I'm using this van for work every day and I want it to run as good as possible.
Thanks again.
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#8
Hey VOODOO 7.3
I have 138,000 miles on my van. The up pipes were replaced once under warranty. (2005)
THANK YOU so much for the detailed answer. I will probably go with the international up pipes. I'm looking for a permanent fix. I'm using this van for work every day and I want it to run as good as possible.
Thanks again.
I have 138,000 miles on my van. The up pipes were replaced once under warranty. (2005)
THANK YOU so much for the detailed answer. I will probably go with the international up pipes. I'm looking for a permanent fix. I'm using this van for work every day and I want it to run as good as possible.
Thanks again.
#9
Hey TLK, just checked your profile to see if you lived in the rust belt. Saw NY and smiled because I was born and raised there! Moved to TX 9 yrs. ago. Anyway I found the company that makes high quality all stainless bellowed up pipes. BD diesel performance makes them right in Canada for $390 total. That's what I would use up there!
#10
I've only replaced mine with stock pipes. in my 2003 both were pitted pretty bad near the gasket so I just replaced them with OEM, was pretty neglected mechanically before I got it looked to me. 5yrs in August and no leaks yet, I did use a small amount of highheat copper silicone against the gasket to seal up any imperfections. I have seen a few of the bellowed pipes and all the ones I've seen have been cracked and leaking. I would think the flow in the straight pipe would be a lot cleaner than a bellowed pipe?
when you wrap stuff in insulation here it usually collects salt spray and rots things away even faster.
yes they are much easier in a van than a pickup, but enjoy it might be the only thing that is
when you wrap stuff in insulation here it usually collects salt spray and rots things away even faster.
yes they are much easier in a van than a pickup, but enjoy it might be the only thing that is
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