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Hate to ask an oil question but I'm going to

 
  #31  
Old 04-19-2016, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by carlhwv View Post
You might want to do a test and see what's really going on. Running my bigger diesels on a Sportfishing boat that needed just short of 6gals ea times two and 50 buck filters, I got in the habit of running an oil test every other change to make sure we still had ice in the oil and at the same time weren't changing it so frequently as to keep the sheiks pockets greased to well. We found 125 hours was the magic number...by 175 we started seeing breakdown. Now this was a completely different application but I plan on using the same methods when I start running my new ride. We are going to be towing full time so I want to get it right. Probably take a couple months after break in to understand the pattern but I won't have to guess and for 15 bucks a test I'm pretty sure it will pay for itself pretty quick in unnecessary changes and down time.
UOA is a great tool, we use it all the time, conditions up here are gross and really pushing the additives trying to target a longer interval without a bypass system.
 
  #32  
Old 04-20-2016, 11:51 AM
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I live in Vermont and the only way I can get an oil rated to -30 is to use synthetic. That said, I would use it in south Texas as well. Several new cars now come with synthetic from the factory and their manuals say to use synthetic at oil changes. Whether it is for better fuel mileage, longevity or other reasons, that suggests to me that synthetics are better. And it makes me feel good about waiting for the OLM to tell me that it is time to change the oil.
 
  #33  
Old 04-20-2016, 01:11 PM
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OK. Just had the dealer change my oil and switched to synthetic. In looking at my invoice I see it was done with 10w30 syn. I asked if that was recommended and was told they run 10w30 syn year round here in New England.
I don't see 10w30 syn listed as recommended in my owners manual and am also concerned if this would be correct as I told them I run into -30f starts in northern NH in the winter. Again, the answer was syn 10w30.
Is this correct?
 
  #34  
Old 04-20-2016, 01:22 PM
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MG, your truck came from the factory with 10-30 synthetic blend, Motorcraft oil. You will have to decide whether you want to run that or not.
Just because it gets down to -30 doesn't mean the 10-30 wont work.
There are more things to consider such as how often is truck started in actual -30 temps ?? Do you normally keep the truck in a garage. ??
Personally I run the T-6. But that doesn't mean I have to have it's abilities all the time.
Good luck !
 
  #35  
Old 04-20-2016, 01:46 PM
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As I posted earlier the cold-flow properties between a 5w-40 and a 10w-30 are nearly identical. The two links I posted listed Shell T6 5w-40 and my oil, Deere Plus 50 II 10w-30, there is 2 degrees centigrade separating the two at the pour point. There is absolutely no way one would be able to tell the difference at a -40 cold-start.
 
  #36  
Old 04-20-2016, 01:53 PM
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Thank you for the response. 3 seasons of the year I am driving mostly Massachusetts so I would assume 10w30 is fine for the 30F - 100F range. Winter is a different animal for me as every weekend I am near the Canadian border so my morning lows are in the -30F - 10F range. The house I rented for part of last winter, I found when I plugged in by block heater I kicked the breaker which would then shut of the house boiler for heat and hot water as well as make no electricity run out to my block heater. At home in the winter, during the week the truck may be in the garage (unheated) or parked outside if it is going to snow so I don't have to drive up my driveway. When the truck is outside the lows may be in the -20F - +20F range in the morning.
 
  #37  
Old 04-20-2016, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by roadrunner01 View Post
As I posted earlier the cold-flow properties between a 5w-40 and a 10w-30 are nearly identical. The two links I posted listed Shell T6 5w-40 and my oil, Deere Plus 50 II 10w-30, there is 2 degrees centigrade separating the two at the pour point. There is absolutely no way one would be able to tell the difference at a -40 cold-start.
What about 15w40 vs. 5w40? I don't know anyone that uses 5w40 that's not synthetic. So are u comparing full synthetic to non synthetics or blends?
 
  #38  
Old 04-20-2016, 06:17 PM
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I compared a 5w-40 to a 10w-30, you cannot make a 5w-40 without it being synthetic due to the wide spread between the "winter number" and the 100C number (5w-40).

The 10w-30 I linked is conventional, but very similar pour point numbers between conventional and synthetic are common, as if its 10w-30 it has to meet the same standards whether its synthetic or conventional.

I posted two links but they have become inoperable, if anyone curious just type the address in your browser of the oil of your choice to compare.
 
  #39  
Old 04-20-2016, 07:12 PM
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Far be it for me to be argumentative but Roadrunner 01 have you ever seen the flow characteristics for yourself? I've compared mobile one 5 W 40 Vrs Fords 10w30 at only -12 F the difference is night and day the synthetic will run while the 10w 30 moves like Jell-O please try it and then tell me there's no difference . I've seen it for myself and I hear how my truck starts with the synthetic oil. The mechanic also told me the fact that the synthetic oil can hold up to heat is one of its best things for turbo diesel engines. Mine has already hit 246F pulling the trailer this week to Malone New York, don't know how accurate it is, but that's what it was reading quite a difference from this winter never getting above 205F. One other thing I was thinking of switching to Amsoil synthetic after reading some of the reviews about the sheer point with all the fuel that gets pumped into the engine during regen take care
 
  #40  
Old 04-20-2016, 08:03 PM
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I have had several -40 cold soak unassisted starts as I snowmobile into Canada. I was only quoting the specs published by the oil companies. The turbo in our engines, like almost everything else produced over the last 20 years, are liquid cooled. Coupled with the fact that the oil temp is controlled by the engines computer, when certain parameters are met additional cooling takes place to keep temps in check.

The oil temps you posted are within normal specs for the 6.7 and seen by anyone who tows through hilly terrain. For any oil to meet CJ-4 specification it has to meet a HTHS standard. Any CJ-4 oil is to resist thermal breakdown of over 450f!, the 6.7 isn't ever going to challenge this as the engine will shut down long before approaching temps close to this.

I have 9 diesel engines in commercial service including my 6.7 with UOA data and trust me synthetic oil isn't needed in the 6.7 to maintain longevity. Most commercial operators don't use synthetic oil because it isn't cost-effective, the added cost out-weigh any benefits that may be realized.
 
  #41  
Old 04-20-2016, 08:16 PM
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How long a cold soak at -40F/C. (F and C are equal at -40).

I'm just curious as the Ford bible/owners manual seems to recommend a 0W oil at -40.
 
  #42  
Old 04-21-2016, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Dakster View Post
How long a cold soak at -40F/C. (F and C are equal at -40).

I'm just curious as the Ford bible/owners manual seems to recommend a 0W oil at -40.
Five days..
 
  #43  
Old 04-21-2016, 04:03 PM
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5 days is a gift 2 years ago 35 days never above 4F during days and -15 too -34 F at night with some record setting -51F not wind chill coldest i ever seen n my 56 years living up here tractors started right up 0-40 w full sny no banging take care


This one makes me laugh he would not come down too cold he pee on landing ran back in could not blame him lol -30
 
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