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Hate to ask an oil question but I'm going to

 
  #16  
Old 04-16-2016, 01:36 PM
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roadrunner - At least you got the UOAs to tell you what is the best for you. No doubt that today's oil across the board is much better than in the 1980's to 1990s. I respect that. Don't take this that I think you are doing something wrong. I only point out what I do and why.

As Rushejj pointed out - If I do my own oil changes it's cheaper than the dealers around here, so I don't feel bad about spending a little more for a wider range of oil operating conditions. My worst case oil change with T6 oil is around $80 with the filter, and that is if I buy everything off the shelf locally. Last time I paid $67 by finding a deal at the right time.

Also, you can't compare how oil wears in a 6.0 to a 6.7 as the way the motor uses oil is different. A heavier oil in a 6.0 was better as it sheared the oil. That isn't necessarily the case with the 6.7. I know you just posted it as an example of where the FoMoCo oil performed better than a SYN oil.

I'm not worried about putting 250k miles on this motor as I won't have it that long. What I want the oil to do, is make it so the motor starts or starts easier without being plugged into a block heater at -40F after several days of cold soak at those temps. And at those temps there is difference between 5W and 10W. Heck, if I look in the Ford Bible (Manual) it says I should be running 0W. Which is why I am thinking of mail ordering OW-40 it thru Amazon. I already have Amazon prime...

What I plan to find out this winter are two things. One is if the motor starts easier in those sub zero temps and two if it gets a little better mileage because the oil should flow better at lower temps.

Next step for nothing more than curiosity, would be to change the front/rear diff and tranny fluid to synthetics that are approved and flow better at lower temp. Not that I expect the increase in mileage to pay for that change. But it would be interesting to see.

I plan on some UOAs as well. As soon as I am getting ready to change the 10W-30 out I will send out a sample and then again when I change out the 0W-40 just to see if there is a difference.
 
  #17  
Old 04-16-2016, 03:28 PM
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As long as we are asking oil questions again here is another one. Has anyone ever mixed regular Rotella oil and synthetic? A friend of mine just adds a gallon of the synthetic, to his regular oil, when it gets real cold. He claims that is what some oil company's call a synthetic blend. Any comments? Thanks.


Dave
 
  #18  
Old 04-16-2016, 03:31 PM
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Mamma, no modifications of the truck and mine has a 4/10 build date. The biggest issue I have had with this truck is the radiators. This is the fifth one that is in the truck. My first one went early. I had the vacuum pump seal go out and that was leaking oil from the front of the motor. I also replaced the heater in the DEF tank, this was easy to do. Also have had to replace the EGR cooler, this was plugged up. I think the first one lasted about 150K and now once in a while I will get the code of insufficient EGR flow. It probably is getting plugged up again. I have heard they can be washed out, we will see. The oil pan gasket was leaking at one point and had to remove that and straighten out the gasket. Changed oil today and noticed the bell housing was covered in oil. I will have to take it in to see what is leaking up on the back of the motor. The one thing that has surprised me is that the ball joints are still original. Usually these go out before a 100K. I did need to replace a steering linkage and some U joints in the front end though. I think thats it. All in all its been a good truck.
 
  #19  
Old 04-16-2016, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Ultratravler View Post
As long as we are asking oil questions again here is another one. Has anyone ever mixed regular Rotella oil and synthetic? A friend of mine just adds a gallon of the synthetic, to his regular oil, when it gets real cold. He claims that is what some oil company's call a synthetic blend. Any comments? Thanks.


Dave
Interesting, but not sure that is the method for me... So when it 'gets cold out' he drains a quart and adds the syn one?
 
  #20  
Old 04-16-2016, 04:33 PM
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Dakster, if he isn't close to oil change time he drains a gallon out and adds a gallon of synthetic oil. Not sure if that is ideal, but it works for him.


Dave
 
  #21  
Old 04-16-2016, 05:19 PM
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I meant a gallon in m previous reply... Whatever works for him. and glad it does!
 
  #22  
Old 04-16-2016, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by roadrunner01 View Post
'15 6.7 Powerstroke UOA | Used Oil Analysis - Diesel | Bob Is The Oil Guy

Check out the link I provided, its my '15 with 3 UOA's posted. Personally I agree with your service writer as I have yet to see where syn provided any additional benefits in a diesel application and I have been running diesel pick up trucks since the mid 80's.
One thing I observed when I lived in AK was at 20 below, syn would still pour out of the jug: regular oil would not....same viscosity ratings. I've got to believe this had some impact between startup and warmup, but I have no data to back it up.
 
  #23  
Old 04-17-2016, 05:19 AM
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[QUOTE=roadrunner01;16211602]Deere charges $12.xx for the kit, coupled with postage the total comes to $14.xx.

The cold flow properties between 5w-40 and 10w-30 are nearly identical, too close for any seat of the pants dyno to be able to tell the difference. I am located in northern Ohio where our winter climate is very similar to northern New England.

well their the first thing that's wrong with that. place one gallons of each out side for two days in -15 talk about cold flow properties, then try used oil lets say 5000 miles on it try that and tell me what happens. Now please don't show me a link to a video just do it your self next winter if you can will talk then take care
 
  #24  
Old 04-17-2016, 06:21 PM
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Radium - That's why I want to go with 0W oil.... Really, 5W/10W is probably fine for Anchorage, but may not be if I decide to take a winter drive somewhere.

And I plan on this winter doing what Radium said - just to see it for myself. I also am going to take some summer fuel, some winter fuel, and add some additives to it per the bottle recommended amounts... At least Four glass jars. Just to see if they make a difference or not. I don't have a -20F cable freezer, much less one that is colder, so I have to wait for mother nature to do it for me.

Another thing, I re-read the manual and at -10F I supposed to plug in per Ford, even though the muni would like me to plug in at +20F. What I am going for is starting up without plugging in, as there isn't always a 110V plug handy.
 
  #25  
Old 04-18-2016, 06:42 AM
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Yes more people should do this experiment rather than trusting what they watch on the internet , wait to see what used oil does once it's cold try 2000 miles you'll never go back to less than synthetic in the cold. You are correct the 0w40 would be the best in the extreme conditions of cold. I use the New Holland oil 0 w40 in my NH t2420 tractor after my dealer recommended it three years ago we had about two months of minus temperatures never getting above 5 F during the day. take care
 
  #26  
Old 04-18-2016, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by radium View Post
Yes more people should do this experiment rather than trusting what they watch on the internet , wait to see what used oil does once it's cold try 2000 miles you'll never go back to less than synthetic in the cold. You are correct the 0w40 would be the best in the extreme conditions of cold. I use the New Holland oil 0 w40 in my NH t2420 tractor after my dealer recommended it three years ago we had about two months of minus temperatures never getting above 5 F during the day. take care
The oil companies publish the cold-flow of all of their oil, along with engine/truck manufacturers in the owners manual, so why the need for individual cold tests?http://www.greenpartstore.com/assets...en-US)_TDS.pdf

These two links provide the information I posted earlier, the pour point between the 10w-30 I use and Shell T6 5w-40 are only 2C different.

I do run the 10w-30 year around as there is no need for me to switch back and forth between winter and summer months. For those that tow heavy through mountainous regions per the owners manual need a 40 wt. and I'm not challenging that, but in my usage 10w-30, per UOA data, seems to be working just fine.
 
  #27  
Old 04-18-2016, 07:07 AM
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file:///C:/Users/owner/Downloads/GPCDOC_Local_TDS_United_States_Shell_Rotella_T6_5W-40_(CJ-4)_(en-US)_TDS.pdf

http://www.greenpartstore.com/assets...ationSheet.pdf

file:///C:/Users/owner/Downloads/GPCDOC_Local_TDS_United_States_Shell_Rotella_T6_5W-40_(CJ-4)_(en-US)_TDS.pdf
 
  #28  
Old 04-18-2016, 07:16 AM
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I was running dino oil this winter. I was in Pittsburg NH one weekend at -30 F and, while my truck was plugged in, it tripped a circuit breaker in the house so in essence, it wasn't plugged in.


The truck started and idled but my rear fuel filter was mostly gelled so it would idle but not get above 1500 rpm. I always treat my fuel, but since it wasn't going to be drivable I put in 2 full containers of Power Serve white and a full Power Serve red. An hour later it still would only idle. I put in another full PowerServe red. Still idling, 30 minutes later wouldn't rev above 1400 and engine temp was dropping. I ended up under the truck with a hair dryer pointed at the filter and fuel pump for 15 minutes. That got the truck running smooth.
No issue with my dino oil allowing the truck to start but since I am up there regularly in the winter and towing a snowmobile trailer up there I was thinking of going to the syn oil. Looks like I'm going to try it. I probably won't notice anything this summer and fall. I'm hoping that it makes a difference in my winter engine wear when I crank the engine over at below zero, even when plugged in.
 
  #29  
Old 04-19-2016, 05:16 PM
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I run a group IV 0w40 cj4 for the winter, and a mineral 15w40 cj4 for the summer. Intervals are 3,000-4,000 miles. Insane dusty up here, even in the winter its gross.
 
  #30  
Old 04-19-2016, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by hoseclamp View Post
I run a group IV 0w40 cj4 for the winter, and a mineral 15w40 cj4 for the summer. Intervals are 3,000-4,000 miles. Insane dusty up here, even in the winter its gross.
You might want to do a test and see what's really going on. Running my bigger diesels on a Sportfishing boat that needed just short of 6gals ea times two and 50 buck filters, I got in the habit of running an oil test every other change to make sure we still had ice in the oil and at the same time weren't changing it so frequently as to keep the sheiks pockets greased to well. We found 125 hours was the magic number...by 175 we started seeing breakdown. Now this was a completely different application but I plan on using the same methods when I start running my new ride. We are going to be towing full time so I want to get it right. Probably take a couple months after break in to understand the pattern but I won't have to guess and for 15 bucks a test I'm pretty sure it will pay for itself pretty quick in unnecessary changes and down time.
 

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