That's a fine lookin' mo-chine ya got there. Happy Motoring!

 

Thats good news. After you adjust the valves I would suggest running the engine with the valve cover off until you can visually see oil is getting to the rockers. 30 pounds at idle isn't bad but not a good idea to idle a new engine.. You need to run it at a higher RPM, the cam and lifters only get oil from a splash..

 

That's great news! Guys here can instruct you on the best way to adjust the valves.

 

Valve adjustment is kind of a sore subject. I had a plan--use the written procedure in the shop manual. My friend just laughed when I talked about dividing the harmonic balancer into thirds. He verbally explained how he does it and expected I should be able to do it. But I couldn't. His helper had another strategy using the the engine firing sequence and the distributor rotor position. My friend made fun of us both, and said it wouldn't work. As it turned out, he was right. We didn't have the #1 cylinder TDC on the compression stroke to start, and all the valves seemed loose when the engine fired today.

I couldn't repeat the helpers procedure by myself today, and despite several explanations, I didn't understand my friend's method either. He just makes the adjustments based on which valves are tight and which ones are loose--quick and easy according to him. He doesn't use the firing order, the distributor, or which piston is in what position or stroke. He just feels a valve stem and says, "Here, adjust this one".

Abe, you somehow got your valves adjusted. Were you able to do it yourself? I got frustrated real fast today trying to turn the engine with the fan blade and jumping around to see the affect on the distributor rotor. As things progressed, the fan belt started slipping, and I was really done. Bumping the starter didn't work at all for me. I always seemed to pass my spot on the distributor. Then I had to start over again with #1 at TDC on the compression stroke. It was not a very fun day today despite the engine firing.

 

I just did a valve adjustment. With experience and the right tools, it still took me just under an hour. No rush.
Set my 223 with .019" of clearance for both intake and exhaust, the engine had been ran 2 hours prior to setting lash, however the manual stated lash should be the same for cold/hot engines for the 223.


My truck will hold the typical 40-50psi at idle when cold, but will drop to ~7-12 when ran all day in 105º weather. At this time of the year, after running around town all day it'll sit at 15-20psi at idle speed of ~700.
I took the truck to my professor that teaches engine rebuild class and has some good years of experience in the trade and asked his opinion on the low pressure. While he was not terribly impressed, he said it is on the low end of normal.

"For a brand new rebuilt engine?"

"yes".


That's my 2 cents.

EDIT: Would you like me to walk you through how I did mine? I'll be back in a couple hours to do so if you'd like.

 

Put a socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt to turn it.

The friend's method sounds like it is; when the exhaust is at full lift on a cylinder, adjust the intake for that cylinder. And vice versa. Ford actually published a similar procedure for the V8's, see below. It is a shortcut that allows all valves to be adjusted in one turn of the crank. Personally I don't like it.

 

Let's just wait on the valve adjustment advice. I'm going to be away from my project for a while to celebrate Easter and My 70th birthday. Maybe my friend will surprise me and have the valves adjusted when I get back. I think he realizes I wasn't quite appreciating the hard time he was giving me today. If I'm still struggling next week, I'll be all ears. Thanks Ross and MORTOBREATH.

 

Ross is right, just turn over the crank with a socket and breaker bar. Dividing up the damper into thirds or quarters works fine, thelines don't have to perfect.

The important thing is that the lifter is on the heel of the cam lobe of the valve to be adjusted. I can't really believe .001" is enough to make a big difference (cold versus hot) for our purposes so I just set them cold. Getting them into specification though, WILL make it run a whole lot better. And you did it yourself!

Have kept my eyes open for an old P&G valve gapper, but everybody usually wants too much money. It's basically a dial indicator with attachments for different type engines, including Fords. The feeler gauge works fine, so does the 1/4 turn method for Y blocks.

 

You got it; if I were there I'd have done it for you no problem.

 

My old man had a "wrench" for setting valves in motion. It was a handle with a screwdriver shaft that was spring-loaded, so it would follow the rocker. The handle turned a socket that fit the locknut. The screwdriver shaft had a **** on top to turn the adjuster. Is that what a P&G tool looks like? I only used it a couple of times and the oil spurting all over made such a mess that I just went back to cold setting with a feeler gauge.

 

P&G gapper is just a standard type dial indicator w/ some whifferdoodle attachments to fit around and setup on the valve assembly. They are cool, but not so cool I'm willing to spend more than a few bucks since valve adjustment isn't really necessary that often. At least I don't think so.

Back in the day people talked about setting lash every oil change or, even more often than that? One guy said every weekend. Never understood that. Maybe hot rodders or drag racers. I'd think every 10k miles maybe. Once ya get your own method & routine down it probably only takes about 20 minutes though.

I like to coat the (cork) gasket surface heavily with clean motor oil and let them "relax" while doing the valves, and then cinch them up real light when done. They never leak this way.

 

I was at a school grandparents day today and had a chance to talk to an old "Chevy" man. He told me about how he always adjusted the valves on his corvette with the engine running. He was a little sketchy on the particulars of how he did it, but he remembers using an old set of valve covers with "windows" cut into them that allowed him to make the adjustments without splashing oil over everything. He's a neat fussy guy--the kind that has black and white checkered tiles on his garage floor. Interestingly, the guy only has one hand, and he said he taped his feeler gauge to the stub of the arm with the missing hand and handled the screwdriver with his good hand.

How's that for a story? And here I am thinking I need someone to help me. The guy still has his corvette but replaced the engine that had the solid lifters years ago. He couldn't tell me how I should go about adjusting my valves with the engine running, but he definitely remembers being able to turn the adjusting screws with the rockers moving. He didn't mention anything about a special tool.

I guess the takeaway here is--"If there's a will there's a way". I get discouraged way too easily.

 

Problem is, some Y blocks have the upswept exhaust manifolds. Good way to get burned. Suppose a guy could could wear gloves, I just don't see the real benefit to setting them while running to go through the hassle.

 

The 54 shop manual says you should bend your feeler gauge at 60° to prevent getting burned.

 

Fahrenheit or Celsius?