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Holley 1904 Carb Question

  #16  
Old 04-17-2016, 06:43 PM
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So.....after cooling down for about an hour, I made another attempt. I started with no choke--no gas. Next I tried about half throttle--then a few pumps--nothing doing. Finally I tried half choke/half throttle. The engine fired a few times and died--I went right away to choke off with some throttle then no throttle--more cranking, some pumping--and it just wouldn't fire again. I then floored the accelerator and after a few seconds, it started and ran. I tried turning the key off and on again a few times and it started each time; no choke--no gas. This is something it wouldn't do just an hour ago when the engine was hot. Maybe my starting problems are caused by operator error?
 
  #17  
Old 04-17-2016, 07:18 PM
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Have you been using the choke after the initial start?
 
  #18  
Old 04-17-2016, 11:04 PM
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To answer your question Ross, no, as soon as the engine fires I take off most of the choke. In warm weather, after a few seconds, it is ready to run with no choke. This is a change from last fall. Before the carburetor float was lowered, it need a significant amount of choke to keep running.

During the winter, it always started well with full choke. As soon as it fired, I changed to about 1/2 choke. I never went anywhere and the engine never got warmed-up, however.
 
  #19  
Old 04-19-2016, 02:36 PM
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My local auto supply store was able to get all the tune-up parts that were suggested. I decided to also replace the plugs. Mine only have about 300 miles on them, but they are pretty black with some deposits already. My truck really smoked when I first started using it. Now that it has a few miles on it, the smoking is greatly reduced. I also ordered the phenolic spacer that was suggested.

I was going to get right on the tune-up today, but it turned colder and rain is in the forecast. It looks like we may be in for a few days of inclement weather.

I did some running around with my truck yesterday, and it was hard to start every time. It seemed too that it was wanting a little choke to keep idling strong even when it was warmed-up. I was lucky not to be stranded again. I'll have to give my battery some credit. It can keep cranking for a longer time than I imagined.
 
  #20  
Old 04-19-2016, 10:49 PM
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I am late to the game. Just read this thread tonight.

I had a similar problem with my 54. I could not figure out why my truck would start easy when cold, even when the outside temp was freezing. If I had to run errands, I either parked it on a hill or kept it running.

One day I was in the garage with the hood up just staring at the engine. I thought. The local Auto electric shop told me to bring the starter to his shop so he could test it. I really didn't want to crawl under the truck and take it out. So I thought well I clean up my cable ends. I thought they should be good since the cables were new.... Then it dawned on me that I replaced the cables in 1999 when I redid the truck.

I got out the sandpaper and cleaned all the copper ends. The t ruck started easy. Went for a drive and got it up to temp, came home, shut it off and it started right up! Problem solved.

So, how clean are your cable ends?
 
  #21  
Old 04-20-2016, 07:58 AM
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Thanks Abe for the suggestion. I will put starter cables on the to do list. My battery cables are new and very nice and heavy duty, but the starer cables may not have been touched since the 1960's. My generator had to be rebuilt, but nothing was done to the starter.
 
  #22  
Old 04-20-2016, 05:11 PM
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My 1950 F-3 with v-8 has had a hard to start problem when hot that sounds just exactly like your symptoms. And with 12 volt battery running a 6 volt starter it spun over very fast. It turned out to be the power valve in the carburator. No more problems starting it anytime. I suppose the power valve was dribbling gas after the engine was shut off. I can't see inside of those things but that is what fixed it. Patrick
 
  #23  
Old 04-23-2016, 09:44 PM
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The power valve design and location is totally different between the Holley 1904 glass bowl one barrel carburetor and the Chandler Groves / Ford AA-1 / Holley 94 two barrel carburetor that goes on the flathead V8s. The power valve on the V8 carburetor threads into the bottom of the float bowl. If it leaks it floods the engine. The power valve on the 1904 glass bowl six cylinder carburetor is entirely submerged in gasoline in the float chamber without a gasket. It cannot leak gas internally when the engine is off.
 
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Old 04-24-2016, 12:05 AM
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Fred, Thanks for the info on the 1904 glass bowl carburetor. I've only been around Ford V8s and didn't know. patrick
 
  #25  
Old 04-24-2016, 12:33 PM
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Thanks Fred for the up-dated information on the I6 power valve. I picked up a couple of spare carbs for my truck last fall when I was cruising the local scrap yard for a replacement glass bowl. I'm in the process of rebuilding one of them just now and was going to pay special attention to the power valve.

The carb I'm rebuilding is an EBR-9510A that I believe is listed to fit 54-55 Ford trucks with 223cid I6 engines. I've looked at several informative carb rebuilding videos, and it appears that there are a number of places to be aware of in Holley 1904 carbs where vacuum and fuel leaks can occur.

Does anyone know if an EBR1910A carb is compatible with my 52' 215 cid engine? Just in case it is not, I ordered 2 rebuild kits right away from Mike's Carbs so I would be prepared to rebuild my original carburetor if needed.

I already have all the recommended tune-up parts, and now with a rebuilt carb to bring to the table, all the "bases" will hopefully be covered. It's cold and raining so it may be awhile before I get back to working on my truck. Thanks everyone for your interest and suggestions.
 
  #26  
Old 04-26-2016, 09:28 PM
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The primary leak cause that I know of is a warped casting where the bowl clamps on. I have seen a video where this is carefully straightened with a vise and a torch. Seems a bit risky, but with cores that are not useable due to warping what do you have to loose?
Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgJv...ature=youtu.be

As far as interchangability, there is no problem. If your venturi is the same diameter and the jetting is the same you will have identical performance. If you got a smaller diameter venturi, like was used on the Falcon cars then you won't be happy. If you got lucky and found a rebuildable 1960 then you want to try a #69 main jet.
 
  #27  
Old 04-27-2016, 08:48 AM
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My spare carb is rebuilt, and I am anxious to try it out. I believe it has the same size Venturi as my original. The main jet, however ( if I remember correctly) is marked with a #57, which might be different than my original. I will have to check.

The weather hasn't been great, but between the rain drops, I did manage to get most of the new tune-up parts installed. I just need to do the new vacuum advance and the thermal carb spacer. The truck starts and runs with the new parts, but I didn't have a chance as yet to get the engine warmed up enough to test the start up from hot situation. I should also check the timing and maybe the dwell.

Thanks for the video link, Fred. The carb I rebuilt seemed to be pretty straight. My original carb body, however, is a bit warped and has a tendency to leak unless the bowl is positioned and tightened just right. Last fall I broke a bowl trying for the "just right" adjustment.

I have lots of things going on for the next week or so (it's really tough being retired) so it will be awhile before I can get back to my truck. I'm hoping some of my drivability issues will be resolved, and I can switch back to paint and body work, which was going to be my main focus this spring.
 
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:12 PM
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Part of my week-end plans fell through and I had some unexpected time to work on my truck today. The new tune-up parts unfortunately did not solve the hot start issues I have been experiencing. My newly rebuilt carb, however, seems to have made quite a difference. Hot starts with the new carb seem to be good now. Just a little gas--maybe a pump or two, and it starts every time. Throttle response is improved as well. Tomorrow I'll try a cold start.


The only glitch now seems to be that a little choke is needed to keep the engine running. Without some choke, the idle speed just gets slower and slower until the engine is barely turning and it finally dies. The choke seems to act like a throttle. Maybe I don't have the linkage set up quite right or something. I still need to check the timing and dwell as well.


For some reason the thermal carb spacer I order last week never arrived, so I went ahead and installed my rebuilt carb without it. I'm wondering now how thick the gasket between the carb and the manifold is supposed to be? The gasket that came with the rebuild kit was very thin. I think I read somewhere on our forum that half a dozen or so gaskets are recommended. Is that the case?
 
  #29  
Old 04-30-2016, 08:19 PM
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You shouldn't have to pump at all on a hot re-start. Sounds like your idle screws may be set too lean.
 
  #30  
Old 04-30-2016, 08:30 PM
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There is only one mixture adjustment screw on my carb. I turned it all the way in and then backed it out a complete turn. My engine acts like there is no stop on the throttle. If the throttle is not at least partially depressed, it's like the engine can't get any fuel.
 

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