The 1/4" (or so) is to get enough room over the dowels.

The real trick is to support the engine and trans so there is no weight on the trans input shaft. If it sounds like I've had to do this before....

 

Monday is looking better, Ross. Thanks so much for all your care and support. The help available on FTE for bungling amateurs like me is just a wonderful thing--and rare too in our busy, increasingly self-centered, world. I've never met Ross or Abe or the many others who have reached out to me over the course of my project, but they all took the time to freely share their knowledge and experience, and I truly appreciate it.

 

I followed Ross' suggested procedure and was able to get the starter plate in. What a relief that was! Like most things I do on my truck, it was not easy and took way longer than it probably should have. Installing the starter involved only three bolts, but that too turned out to be quite a struggle. It somehow ended up taking over an hour, but the starter is done--all three bolts caught and holding. LOL. The engine is resting on the front motor mounts, but as of quitting time today, I haven't been able to get the bolts to go all the way through and attach the nuts. So the engine install isn't quite finished, but it's close.

 

After the recent drama, progress has been a little slow. I still haven't won the battle with the motor mount bolts, but I didn't spend much time on it either today.

The valve train is in place and pretty much ready to go. I do have a question about the rear "oiler" tube, however. It only goes in one way, so I know where it goes. One end attaches to the rocker arm shaft and is held in place with a little clip. The other end fits in a small hole that leads down into the head. This is where I have a concern. The end of the tube that goes into the head seems to hit "bottom" when the other end is installed properly in the rocker arm. Should I be worried about this? It just seems if the end of the tube is touching the bottom, there is going to be a restriction and it won't be able to pick up oil like it should.

As always, any advise is appreciated.

 

Just make sure the end that goes down thru the head has the "D" ring installed and lubricated. When the end that fits into the head bottoms in the head, how much gap between the end that goes into the rocker pedestal? I would expect a slight amount so as to maintain pressure on the lower end of the tube.

 

Thanks! Could Ray, or someone else that knows, tell me more about this "D" ring and lubrication? There is a little clip that holds the front tube down--it attaches to one of the bolts for the rocker arm support. The back tube didn't seem to have a little clip like this so I made one out of sheet metal. The clip I made, would hold down the end that attaches to the rocker arm shaft. I don't seem to have anything for the end that goes into the head.

When I took my engine apart, the rear oiler tube was stuck. According to the shop manual, I was just supposed to be able to pull it out. It wouldn't come, so I left it in for the machine shop to remove. I don't remember seeing clips or "D" rings for the rear oiler tube. I must be missing a part.

 

The long tube at the rear of the rocker shaft is the oil supply tube. There is a D ring that fits on the end that goes into the block to make a seal. If that doesn't seal you won't get oil to the rockers. I would suggest installing the tube with the push rod side cover removed so you can visually see that it is in the block hole. Putting oil on the D ring helps it slide into the hole.

 

Exactly what Jim, Hiball said. That D ring is nothing more than a small rubber seal that fits on the oil tube and fits tightly down into the block. It is one of those things that you may find after the engine is back together and wonder, "Where does this thing go"? I have seen one engine where it was missing, had hardened and fallen out or someone forgot to install it I guess. A member on here had trouble with his 223 not getting much oil to the rockers and the D ring was hard and not sealing. A new D ring and he had oil to the rockers again.

 

Thanks Jim and Ray. I think I have it sorted out now. My tube was a little bent, and it was missing the hole. Some tweaking got it to into the correct opening, and some searching in the "left overs" in my gasket set, turned up the D ring. The tube fits nice and snug in the proper hole now, and the end that goes into the rocker arm shaft is held down with a little clip. I think the valve train is good to go now. I just need to adjust the valves.

The motor mounts just about did me in. The bolts just wouldn't go through, and I kept pushing and pounding--prying and aligning; all to no avail. Finally in desperation, I jacked up the engine and looked at the way I had installed the two rubber parts of the motor mounts. I had installed the two rubber parts together and on top of the frame. It looked right, but it turned out to be wrong! One piece goes on top of the frame and the other one goes under the frame. With the pieces properly positioned, the bolts went right through. It was simple--a five minute thing; not at all the two hour multiple day ordeal I had suffered through. Knowledge is power. Ignorance, on the other hand, is darn frustrating--and time consuming too.

The radiator, hoses, fan, wheels, fuel lines, oil filter, and belts were installed today. Tomorrow, I need to adjust the valves, finish up the throttle linkage and choke, and get the exhaust system reinstalled. The floor piece that covers the transmission is also going to need some work. I cut a hole for the shift lever as carefully as I could, but the cover still doesn't quite fit. No surprise here! My hole looks to be less than an inch off, but it's still not right.

Here are some pictures documenting my difficulty with the oiling tube:

 

Another step forward, I can almost hear it purring!

 

Glad you got it sorted out and everything is coming together for you. Great looking engine. Be sure to adjust the valves again when HOT..

 

Any tips on adjusting the valves. My mechanic friend laughs at me for thinking of doing it like the shop manual suggests. He thinks finding the valve to be measured and adjusted can be done easily and quickly by using the distributor rotor position and the engine's firing order. Just so you know where I'm starting from, number 1 cylinder is top dead center, and the timing mark is right on the "pointer". The distributor rotor is set to fire #1 cylinder.

Generally speaking, I'd feel better following written directions. My friend doesn't usually take the time to actually show me how to do something. He just gives some verbal direction, and thinks I should be able to do what he told me. The book suggests dividing and marking the wheel with the timing mark into thirds and using these marks to find the valves for adjusting. Any pros and cons for using the "book" method? Thanks.

 

I do not remember anything different about that engine but I just bar the engine over (plugs out of course) and watch the valves and firing order. Adjust the valves to their rough adjustments as each cylinder comes up on the compression stroke. Run this thru each cylinder twice to verify adjustments.
Now, you are getting close to the fun part, the first fire. You'll probably want to install the valve cover temporarily at this time as oil is going to fly off the rockers when you bring the engine to break in speed. More on this when you are ready.
Early morning coming, I am retiring for the evening. Have fun. I know you're getting excited.

 

Nothing wrong with the book's method.

 

This is good for me too. My BIL says he won't come down to help me again because I watched him adjust the valves so I should be able to do it myself.

My question or concern is this. The valves were adjusted well when I took off the rocker shaft. I thought if I put it on as is the should be adjusted pretty close.

The machine shop guy told me since he shaved .004" off the head that will make them tighter so I do have to adjust them before firing it up. Do you all agree?

Also, there are videos on YouTube for adjusting valves on a Yblock. I'm sure there are some for a straight 6.