It should work just fine.

 

There's a tool available, for many, many years now, that will detect carbon monoxide in coolant. See here for example: http://tinyurl.com/zhw7c7m Most repair shops will have one, you may even find them as loaner tools at local parts stores.

 

Thanks Beav, I'll be sure to have the CO test done when I get home.

 

I've been unable to do my usual winter activities due to a leg fracture. As a consolation (and maybe a distraction from getting at the body work I really should be doing) I made the decision to tear into my engine. As we've discussed in this thread, excessive oil consumption has been a concern--also the condition of my head gasket. This afternoon, I was able to get the head off. Here are some pictures:















I'm sadly new to taking an engine apart. I just followed the manual and was thankful that nothing broke and all the bolts backed out without incident. I'm not sure how things should look. Is what you see typical? Any red flags? I took the head to a machine shop for reconditioning. My plan is to drop the pan and hopefully just replace the rings and hone the cylinders. Is that at all realistic?

There is a definite ridge at the top of the cylinders. I'm not sure how pronounced is too pronounced for cylinder ridges. I would like to measure the cylinder bore and determine how much wear and tapper there is. I think a friend is going to help me with this next week--he also has a tool for removing ridges from cylinder bores. Are bearings something that should be replaced when you are going through the trouble of removing the pistons? Is there anything else that I should consider doing while the head is off and the pan dropped?

An option, of course, would be to go all in and pull the engine, rebore the cylinders, replace the pistons, etc., etc. I'm hoping though to avoid this huge expense. Is that being short sighted?

The machine shop didn't think I really needed hardened valve seats unless what I have is damaged or worn excessively. Would the FTE experts agree? Thanks.

 

If your head is factory equipped with hard exhaust valve seats and they are in good condition then don't mess with them. My 53 sedan had horrific valve recession when I got the car, the worst valves were 1/8 inch into the head. I had new seats installed.

If you put new bearings in with out boring the cylinders make sure to cut the ridge out of the cylinders. New bearings will hold the crank and rods up a little bit. New rings will be that little bit higher up in the bore and hit the ridge, then break.

 

The condition of the cooling passages would make me want to yank the engine and get everything clean. Then inspect the crank and bearings, the valves, etc. and fix what needs it.

 

It is tempting to go all in on the engine while it is already partially disassembled. I've had the paint for the engine and valve cover since Christmas 2015. I also have a spare clutch and transmission that I'd like to swap in to replace the ones I have. Mine is pretty worn--like everything else on my truck. My replacement clutch and transmission are just like the ones I have (4 speed crash box)--just hopefully in better condition.

Hopefully my friend will be able to determine the wear and taper of my cylinder bores. I did price pistons at EGG. They would have most of the parts for an overhaul for about $1200. I'm not sure what machine shop costs might run. The estimate for the head reconditioning was $200 plus an additional charge for valve guides and gaskets.

If I do just end up doing the head, rings, and bearings, I'll be sure to cut down the cylinder ridges. My machinist said he would look for valve recession before making a final recommendation on hardened seats.

 

When I brought my engine to the machine shop. They convinced me to let them order the parts. They get a discount and also order the right parts. Well, usually order the right parts. If they don't, its up to them to get the right parts.

 

This has been my experience, as well,,,,most cases. If you have an honest machine shop.

 

We pretty much have only one shop in town that does engine rebuilding. The guy running it is probably approaching retirement age. He works alone in a shop that his father before him operated. The place is a time capsule--right out of the 1950's. Hopefully he's honest. He seems to have a good reputation and appeared very knowledgeable about the head I brought him. I'll get some prices from him for labor and materials to overhaul my engine. I don't have any bore measurements yet, but I would estimate the ridge in my cylinders is at least the thickness of the cover material of a paperback book.

 

That sounds about like 0.010 - .015", not bad really, but without miking it you won't know if the bore was Std or already O/S. There's usually plenty of meat in these older cylinders.

If that is all the wear there is, you could get by with just rings. Back in my lean high school and college days I never had them bored, just honed them myself. It gives the engine a lot more life but nothing like fresh bores with new pistons. Getting it bored and new pistons and rings is likely about $400 - $500, just decide if you want to go all-in and be done with it or postpone it.

 

We didn't end up getting a precise measurement today, but just seeing and feeling the cylinder ridges, my friend estimated the wear to be greater than .015. He recommended reboring the cylinders and doing the things that are usually done during an engine overhaul.

The machine shop, hearing the greater than .015 wear diagnosis, recommended the following replacement parts: Pistons, Rings, Pin Bushings, Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings, Timing Chain, Cam Gear, Crank Gear, and Oil Pump. Does this look like a reasonable list? The charge for these parts would come to approx. $800.

Boring the cylinders, grinding the cam, and other associated machine shop labor would be another $565. Reconditioning the head adds yet another $200. Tearing the engine down and putting everything back together again would cost an additional $350, but my friend thinks I can save this expense by doing this part myself.

Costs associated with Pulling and replacing the engine are not included in the numbers above. I'm doing some of this work but not all of it.

So, what do those of you who have been down this road think? The damages are certainly more than the $400--$500 Russ was thinking, but the job would include much more than just pistons and rings and reboring the cylinders.

 

The only thing that stands out to me is the $565 "associated machine shop labor". Boring is usually $20/cylinder, or $120. Putting in the cam bearings $50. Are they including line boring the main caps? Where is the rest of the labor?

Reconditioning the head for $200 could be reasonable. Does that include new valve guides, and R&R for them? Grinding seats and valves is typically $6/valve, or $72, so I would hope so. It may also include taking a skim cut on the head for flattening it. Rocker arm work is likely not included, and could well be needed, you should clarify.

I think I'd let them put the new pistons and rings in the block, as well as the crank. Should be much less than the $350 but still leave you plenty to do.

Overall the bottom line doesn't look much out of whack. You'd have a like-new engine!

 

Ross, $315 covers the reboring, testing, cleaning, etc. for the block. There is an additional charge of $250 to grind the crank. There is nothing in the quote for rocker arm work. Thanks for the advice about having the shop do the rings, pistons and crank. I do worry about making mistakes.

$200 for the head does not include valve guides--I think he estimated $6 per hole plus something for labor.

 

I think there are some overlapping figures being thrown out. I see no one hundred dollar gasket set mentioned. IMO, a rebuild should run no more than a couple thousand dollars for that engine, turn key.