2WD 2004 Excursion Front Bearings Giving Me Fits
#1
2WD 2004 Excursion Front Bearings Giving Me Fits
Searched throughout the forum here and the overwhelming majority of bearing-related posts are on 4x4 trucks. I have a 2WD and the front end is eating bearings at a rate of about 1 every 6 months. They're Timken bearings, so I really don't believe it's a quality issue. I've changed out the bearings and races and used decent red lithium grease to pack them and put everything back together. Why am I chewing them up so fast? I've noticed there's play in the wheel hub even once I put the spindle nut back on in the stock position -- should I be torquing it down further than it was or do I have runout in my spindle somehow? I'm at a loss.
What gives?
What gives?
#2
#3
Yes, I've packed them very thoroughly to get the grease into each roller and into the cage (or whatever it's called) that retains the rollers. I've also begun greasing the surfaces of the races just to ensure there's plenty there.
You used the term preloading, though, and that's a new one for me. Did I miss a step or is that just another way of asking if I got enough grease in there?
#4
How are you determining the stock position of the nut? In my experience that position changes depending on how hard the hub is to turn while tightening the nut. If it has play when you are done, something isn't right. It should be tight enough to get rid of play but not tight enough to make turning the hub difficult.
#5
How are you determining the stock position of the nut? In my experience that position changes depending on how hard the hub is to turn while tightening the nut. If it has play when you are done, something isn't right. It should be tight enough to get rid of play but not tight enough to make turning the hub difficult.
And if you can just torque it til it snugs up, that's fine by me. I'll give that a whirl. Just gotta pop the dust caps, pull the cotter pins and torque them down until snug (or is there a torque spec?) and button it back up.
#6
It is a spec by feel. I like to tighten it too much to ensure everything is nice and seated, then back the nut off and slowly tighten it while spinning the hub until there is no play but the hub is still easy to turn. You will feel more resistance on the hub if you start to overtighten it.
#7
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#8
I believe this applies:
While rotating the disc brake hub and rotor, tighten the spindle nut. (30 ft-lb)
Loosen the spindle nut two turns.
Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the disc brake hub and rotor. (30 ft-lb)
Loosen the spindle nut. (175 degrees- about 1/2 turn)
Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the disc brake hub and rotor. (17 in-lb)
Install the following components: Nut retainer, Cotter Pin, Hub Grease cap.
While rotating the disc brake hub and rotor, tighten the spindle nut. (30 ft-lb)
Loosen the spindle nut two turns.
Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the disc brake hub and rotor. (30 ft-lb)
Loosen the spindle nut. (175 degrees- about 1/2 turn)
Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the disc brake hub and rotor. (17 in-lb)
Install the following components: Nut retainer, Cotter Pin, Hub Grease cap.
#9
Just a heads up, make sure the grease you use is spec-ed for Ford wheel bearings. A lot of wheel bearing grease isn't up to Ford specs. By looking at the nice black color of yours, it might not be the good stuff. Also. Pack as much grease as you can in there. There is no such thing as too much.
Also, a good starting point for the nut is, snug it down with a wrench, back it off so it's loose, than get it as tight as you can with your hands.
Also, a good starting point for the nut is, snug it down with a wrench, back it off so it's loose, than get it as tight as you can with your hands.
#10
Just a heads up, make sure the grease you use is spec-ed for Ford wheel bearings. A lot of wheel bearing grease isn't up to Ford specs. By looking at the nice black color of yours, it might not be the good stuff. Also. Pack as much grease as you can in there. There is no such thing as too much.
Also, a good starting point for the nut is, snug it down with a wrench, back it off so it's loose, than get it as tight as you can with your hands.
Also, a good starting point for the nut is, snug it down with a wrench, back it off so it's loose, than get it as tight as you can with your hands.
#11
Welp... I am anile enough that I counted rotations. ALMOST OCD, but not quite.
And if you can just torque it til it snugs up, that's fine by me. I'll give that a whirl. Just gotta pop the dust caps, pull the cotter pins and torque them down until snug (or is there a torque spec?) and button it back up.
And if you can just torque it til it snugs up, that's fine by me. I'll give that a whirl. Just gotta pop the dust caps, pull the cotter pins and torque them down until snug (or is there a torque spec?) and button it back up.
Done this a few times on my 2wd, I leave the wheel on when I do this, easier to push/pull.
#12
that works when reinstalling used bearings but new bearings will take a set and if you don't preload them they will be very quickly be loose followed shortly after by failure.
#13
I've had mine loose when I got the truck. They didn't fail, still use them to this day. Repack and tightened.
#14
How tight can you turn a nut with just your hands?? I said tighten it down, loosen it up, and hand tight.....
#15
Thanks, gang. I went through the bearings again and followed the procedures above (tighten, rotate, loosen, repeat) and reinstalled the wheels.
The bearing noise is virtually gone.
The wheels have no play whatsoever, but they still freely spin.
Road noise is considerably less and there's no ominous rubbing noise while cornering.
FTE rocks.
The bearing noise is virtually gone.
The wheels have no play whatsoever, but they still freely spin.
Road noise is considerably less and there's no ominous rubbing noise while cornering.
FTE rocks.