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Could my truck be breaking CPS's?

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  #16  
Old 04-18-2016, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett Campbell
You can use a regular pen style pressure gauge. There's a Schrader valve on the fuel regulator on the driver's side of the bowl
I had already measured that. I got a reading of 15 psi.
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:03 AM
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oops I wrote that before I had my coffee this morning! Sorry!

Man I really couldn't tell you. Have you been through the no start flow chart?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...1qRU1VVGc/view
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett Campbell
oops I wrote that before I had my coffee this morning! Sorry!

Man I really couldn't tell you. Have you been through the no start flow chart?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...1qRU1VVGc/view
Wow Jarrett, thanks for sharing! Here's my plan for testing the fuel system.. Empty fuel bowl via yellow drain tab and try to crank. If it doesn't refill the bowl does that mean my lift pump is bad? Would a lift pump be an intermittent problem then go completely bad or is it all or nothing?

Please feel free to advise on how I could most effectively test the fuel system. 15 psi when cranking.
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:51 AM
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If I understand the mechanical fuel pump system correctly, there is only one two stage pump for the engine, located directly behind the fuel bowl between it and the turbo. The pump has a plunger that rides on a lobe on the cam shaft.

If you are getting fuel pressure, I would assume you're getting fuel flow through the filter. If that is the case, you should be getting white smoke out of the tail pipe when you're cranking.
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:52 AM
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True, lift pump is bad if it doesn't refill the bowl. But the converse isn't necessarily true. The lift pump is two-stage. First stage fills the bowl, low pressure, something like 6-8 psi. Second stage consumes the fuel from the bowl (post-filter) and feeds the injector lines, medium pressure, 40+ psi. As of now, if you're seeing fuel in the bowl, but only 15 psi at the schrader valve, that suggest a second stage failure.

But then I also wouldn't rule out weak batteries / starter. If it's only cranking at 100-150 RPM, that might also explain why the fuel pressure is low. If it were a manual, I would recommend trying to push start it, as that can crank the engine faster than the starter can.
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:56 AM
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How could I test for a second stage failure? What part does that indicate could be the problem? Is that still a lift pump problem or is it in the bowl?

My batteries are definitely weak from much cranking but it's been doing it since before then.
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 11:40 AM
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The lift pump is two stages, but it's a single part. If the second stage has failed, you have to replace the whole pump. Just to be certain, check the fuel pressure again with fully charged batteries.
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
The lift pump is two stages, but it's a single part. If the second stage has failed, you have to replace the whole pump. Just to be certain, check the fuel pressure again with fully charged batteries.
Just wanted to follow-up.. How can I test to see if the second stage has failed?
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 01:30 PM
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At 15 psi, it's _probably_ weak. But again, I would get it cranking faster and test again, just to be sure. (Or see if it'll actually start by cranking it faster.)
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 03:01 PM
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Also, here is that thread on the Baro sensor.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-culprit.html

Sorry it took so long. Had to wait to get to a computer.
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 05:55 PM
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Updated info

Got the batteries more juice and retested Schrader valve. Reading was 40psi which is back in normal range. I then emptied the fuel bowl and switched on accessory to see if it would refill. Tried to crank a few times and went to check and it was still pretty empty. I also had my wife switch on to accessories while I listened at each gas cap and heard no humming sounds. Any thoughts?
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:01 PM
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The fuel bowl won't fill unless the engine is cranking. There's nothing in the tanks to listen to. If you're now getting 40 psi at the schrader valve, just try starting it again. What are you getting for RPM, now that you've got the batteries charged?
 
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:20 PM
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Here's a video update on trying to crank..

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8vYc8Lu_8UA

I had replaced the glow plug relay. Could I have wired it incorrectly? Multimeter says 10.5 volts from ground to the other.
 
  #29  
Old 04-18-2016, 07:24 PM
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Are you waiting for the WTS light to go out? Seems like a VERY short time between turning the key to RUN and turning it to START.

Seems like it's at least trying now. Seeing much better RPMs on the tach. Try just giving it some more GP run time before turning the key to START.
 
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:23 PM
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Ok so in case it was an issue I changed the oil last night. I also find that the IPR pigtail gasket is completely disintegrated. Could this be causing all this? Does it necessarily mean the ipr is bad? The tin nut is tight. How can I test the ipr as to whether it's good?
 


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