I need a little advice about some concerns that I have with a coolant filter that I received from IPR. Before I share the negatives, I will say that the customer service, phone calls, and emails from IPR have been first rate.

I don't want to trash this vendor. I want some honest experience other FTE members have experienced with IPR. I know FICM Repair sells some of their products including the coolant filter. When FICM repair sells something, I believe the product is vetted.

Here is what I found after opening the the IPR coolant filter box.

• The filter housing was missing the gasket to the base.
• The filter housing threads had black junk and appeared used.

I contacted IPR and got an immediate response letting me know that this is unacceptable and they will take care of everything. Vince immediately sent a replacement gasket and lower filter housing attachment. He called me on my cell and let me know what options are available.

My over all experience is positive with IPR.

I know there a lots of opinions. I will post the some photos after I get this installed.

 

Coolant filters have been discussed for years on this and other forums. Folks are across the spectrum on the subject from: just do routine flushing and go with the gold ford coolant and you'll be fine, to Full flow AND coolant flush is the only way to go.

Problem I see is if you had a full flow and were to clog it, depending on where it is in the system if there isn't a bypass built in you are starving other parts of the engine of coolant.

I have no knowledge of the IPR unit, but I did decide on a bypass style because it can fully clog and is inert to the rest of your cooling system. A long-gone member here: BeachBumCook took some great pictures of the crap, mostly casting sand, that came out of his bypass filters -- they do work.

The discussion of coolant type I think can be left out of your filter Question. I went with a bypass style because I think our blocks may release casting sand their whole lives, and I'd like to remove it, even if slowly... The sand can't be good for our plastic (nylon, whatever) water pump impellers...

So yeah, I'd send it back and get my money and then go buy an XDP one using discount code: DIESEL10 -- it is a very complete kit and all hoses are pre-cut, tho I did trim one just to make the install look a little nicer...

My $.02

 

We recommend use of IPR's full flow coolant filter over bypass filters variations for all of the reasons that involve getting the nasties out in one pass over multiple. That said, we only recommend use of the manifold design that incorporates itself immediately after the oil cooler in very specific situations.

The version without the manifold is not only less money, but also results in only a loss of heat in the cab in the event of a clogged up filter instead of a loss of oil cooling. Ultimately, when you lose heat you know it's time to clean out the filter and reinstall it.

Hope this help you out, Mark!

 

Ed, Thanks. Are you saying that you recommend using it without the manifold? This is what I originally wanted. How should I configure the system?

 

Hi Mark - Yes, I recommend using the kit without the manifold. It should just tie into the heater hoses.

 

How do I route the heater hoses from the filter unit?

 

If the IPR filter clogs either clean it or remove it from the system and reinstall the housing only until the filter can be cleaned.

 

Hey Mark - Thanks for the time on the phone the other day! Just make sure to re-route the fluid flow instead of teeing off of it as we discussed and life will be good!

 

This is a follow up to my saga with IPR Coolant Filter leaking.

I sent the unit back because it came used and was missing gaskets.

After installing the unit in my E350 van, the valves were leaking. I sent the unit back again to IPR and requested a leak test. Unit sent back and it still leaked.





I took the unit apart and used teflon tape on the ball valves. It still leaked.





I removed the housing and sent it to local machine shop and had new ball valves installed. It still leaks.

It's determined that IPR does not match the ball valves with the type of threading. It's either tapered or non-tapered threads.

IPR sent me new ball valves. I have removed the unit so many times that I have not installed the new ball valves. It leaks a few ounces of coolant a month. Not enough to cause concern.

The filter itself is made with fine stainless steel mesh. There is a magnet in the housing. It's easy to change and or clean the filter.

Despite the fact that the filter does remove a lot of junk, I would not recommend this coolant filter until IPR tackles their quality control issue.

However, I will leave the filter installed as it really filters out particles that may clog the EGR and oil cooler. A few ounces of lost coolant per month is less expensive than replacing the oil and EGR cooler.

IPR coolant filter ball valves leaking.

 

When install the filter don't make it a bypass set up unless you put a shut off valve in the bypass hose. You'll see it in the instructions. You will not get good heat because the flow is more restricted going through the heater core.......ask me how I know

 

Do you have the orange or black base gasket? The one that seals to the housing base. I found that the orange one leaks. I recently ordered new gaskets and it's black. Looks like a Honda spin on oil filter gasket. That one solved my leaking problems. I also thought it was the valves and/or the side port for a long time.

Worth a shot of yours is orange, ask Vince for the black one.

 

I have the orange gasket! I will order the black gaskets. I have not cleaned the filter in the last 3000 miles. May as well open it, clean it, and replace the gasket.

Thanks for the tip.

 

I set it up inline with the heater hose. My cooling system is extremely clean. The IPR coolant filter has been filtering for the past 10,000 miles.

 

Question for you, since I'm about to re-do mine to no longer use the manifold. Are you basically putting the filter between the hard line that comes from the front of the block and around under the alternator and the heater valve thing?

 

I have the van and it's a little different. I used the heater hose line coming out of the fire wall. I can take some photos when it's light. I followed Ed's advice (FICMrepair.com) and he said not only is less expensive to not use the manifold, it's inline with the heater. If the filter gets clogged, you will loose heat without blocking flow to the oil cooler.

I debated this with Vince and it appears he was not happy with my decision. It's my truck.

Sinister diesel has better photos and instructions for installation. I used the same lines that Sinister uses for the bypass. I had a Ford Mastertech find the other line for me and complete everything the same time he was installing a new EGR and oil cooler.

Is this the black gasket you are talking about? I have a feeling this is where my unit is leaking! I have tried everything except the filter unit.