I need to get the correct front motor mount bolts for our 52 F1 flathead V8.
I have bought new motor mounts but the bolts that were in the old mounts were not correct ones.
Does anyone have the correct dimensions of these bolts? I have not seen them listed anywhere.

Thanks Jim S.

 

EDIT: Wrong information provided earlier. Never mind...

 

Wrong bolts, Joe!

This was just asked on the Ford Barn about two weeks ago (was that you?). So I measured my bolts (below). The 1952-only rubber components are readily available, but the bolts can be difficult to find. Still some NOS out there, google "2C-6047-A" and look for Rearcounter.com hits. There are only 3 parts to the mounts; the bolt, an upper, and a lower rubber piece. Washers are molded into the rubber. No sleeves. The nut is a common castellated nut.

where to get 1952 Ford Truck motor mounts? - The Ford Barn

 

Wow. I don't know how I read motor mount bolts as head bolts. Need coffee.

 

Oops. I'm wrong too. And you've got your answer. Scratch that.

 

2C-6047-A (replaced 2C-6047) .. Bolt-Engine Front Support Insulator / 1/2" -20 x 3.40" long / Obsolete

1952 215/239/254 / 1953 254.

AITKEN MOTOR CO. in Aitken MN has 1 = 218-927-2169.

MCDONALD OBSOLETE PARTS CO. in Rockport IN has 1 = 812-359-4965.

MAINER FORD in Okarche OK has 2 = 405-263-7242.

NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 2 = 972-937-2201.

OBSOLETE RELIABLE PARTS in Nashville GA has 2 = 229-686-5101.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
2C-6047 =

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has 1 = 607=722-5371.

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 1 = 800-476-9653.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 5 = 800-543-4959.

 

thanks all. I really needed that diagram too. The PO had a big flat washer on top of the top motor mount. I see it is not supposed to be there. I set the motor and trans today and used some temp. bolts till I get the correct ones.
Everything was going well till I went to hook up the clutch linkage and saw there is no free travel on the throw out bearing. Upon further investigation I found the PO has the fork that works the throw out bearing installed backwards. One side of the fork is flat where it makes contact and the other side has a slight hump. The hump is toward the pressure plate. Wrong!. Just enough of a difference to lay the throw out brg against the PP fingers. I did not notice that when I installed the front seal! I will have to pull the transmission tomorrow and turn it around.

Also, Ross no it was not me that asked that on Ford Barn, I just realized Yesterday That I did not have the bolts. I did find one of them this morning as I searched through boxes of stuff.

 

The radius'd side of the throwout fork SHOULD be towards the PP. You can see it here

 

You have the fork installed correctly, the rounded side does face the throwout bearing.
Mark

 

I wonder why I have no play? The bearing is against the PP fingers. When I looked in the inspection hole and saw the hump I thought that would be the problem. Any Ideas?

 

Have you adjusted the linkage? or is it even connected? Are you sure the fork fingers are seated on the release hub correctly?

Did you just install a new clutch? If your disc is worn it will make the fingers go to the rear.

 

Ross, the fingers appear to be seated correctly. I was hooking up the linkage when I saw there is no play on the throw out bearing. Currently the adjustment rod is not hooked up but the transfer arm from the transmission to the frame is in place. Also I did install new bushing and seal on the ball and the spring is in place. I hooked the linkage up to the pedal and worked the clutch pedal and the clutch disengages as it should. I did disconnect the linkage however when I saw there is no free travel.
I took a pipe wrench to manually work the clutch while I looked through the inspection hole. It works smoothly however the T/O brg is against the fingers. It also appears the fingers on the PP adj. bolts are in all the way. I am thinking since it is not the fork turned wrong that the T/O brg must be to thick.???

One thing that I just thought of is that the return spring on the T/O brg release hub is
stretched out which I would not think it should be.

 

Stick a screwdriver in the inspection hole, and see if you can get the release hub to move back. Could be it's just hung up.

 

OK I will try that. Also I just went out and took a couple of pics. I will post them in a few minutes. Thanks.

 

Pics however not really very good