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Checking Compression

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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 06:00 PM
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Checking Compression

I have a 2012 5.0 with 52K on the odometer.

I plan on checking compression this weekend, and the plan is to get engine up to operating temp, disconnect all the coil wires at the coils, pulling the coils and plugs, removing the fuel pump fuse, bleeding any remaining fuel pressure, connecting a battery charger to the battery to help with the drain/load on the battery.

Finally checking (and documenting) each cylinders pressure.


Am I on track as far as procedure? Am I leaving anything out?
Thanks, KD
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 07:26 PM
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Other than "Why?". Is there something not quite right with it or is it not running smoothly? At 52000 miles it should be just nicely broken in.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 07:29 PM
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You can do that, or leave the key off and use some kind of jumper on the starter relay. Jump between the positive battery terminal and the activation wire from the key switch. Sometimes I use a screwdriver to do this right at the relay.

You might want to wear Nomex gloves to remove the plugs from a hot engine.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod
Other than "Why?". Is there something not quite right with it or is it not running smoothly? At 52000 miles it should be just nicely broken in.
Simple: Paranoia with the 5.0 cylinder scuffing/out of round issue I have read about here and other forums. There are two recent posts here and many more I have read about in the past year.


My thought process is oil analysis (for high wear metal content) and a compression test. Just looking for any red flags. Might even bore scope as well.


Do I have a knock? Not sure...I don't hear anything that says "yes it's a knock". Do I hear what might be a faint knock? Maybe, again, maybe just paranoid, who knows, but would hate to have it turn into a " for sure knock" just after warranty or something like that.


So I figure an hour or two of checking compression might make me sleep better...(or not). Thanks, KD
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
You can do that, or leave the key off and use some kind of jumper on the starter relay. Jump between the positive battery terminal and the activation wire from the key switch. Sometimes I use a screwdriver to do this right at the relay.

You might want to wear Nomex gloves to remove the plugs from a hot engine.
Thanks, yes, gloves are a good idea. I have a clip on jumper start switch. Will have to look into that. Forgot I had it till you mentioned it. Not sure of location of the activation wire but will try to dig it out of the manual. KD


Do you mean the starter "S" terminal when you say "activation wire? Thanks, KD
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 10:25 PM
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Yes, now that you mention that knocking thing.... Well guess I will stay tuned here. Good luck with it.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 12:38 AM
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The starter solenoid has 2 small posts, one of which is for the wire that comes from the key switch. That's what I meant by "activation wire". There are two large terminals, one of which comes from the battery +terminal. If you short that to the key switch terminal, that should run the starter motor.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
The starter solenoid has 2 small posts, one of which is for the wire that comes from the key switch. That's what I meant by "activation wire". There are two large terminals, one of which comes from the battery +terminal. If you short that to the key switch terminal, that should run the starter motor.
Yes, thanks. What you call activation is what in my mind is the "S" or switch (ignition switch) wire on the solenoid. One clip goes there. And the other clip goes on larger post that comes from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid.


Thanks, I forgot I owned one, it is probably buried in a cabinet in my garage, but will dig it out and dust it off. It should save some time. KD
 
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