I've been trying to find a running engine. But low mileage 302's are hard to find. They stopped putting these in vehicles in the late 90's I believe. So a 20(ish) year old motor would be in a vehicle that was driven less than 5k per year. This is a third vehicle for the family and we drive it about 10k/year.


I've looked at some the people say are low mileage, but can't prove it. I'm not taking a chance.

 

If you can find an engine that runs (in truck) then you could verify it's condition pretty easily.

 

Very true, however I'm a little gunshy at the moment as I got screwed on this one. I've been looking though. I did find one 2 hours away that the guy claims he can prove 95k mileage. I asked for a picture of the odometer and the VIN number so I can carfax it. That would get me close to the right mileage, however he said he's not doing it. So I'm not driving 2 if he doesn't want to prove it. I did find a fairly local builder who will rebuild mine for $1098. I've done some searching and they get good reviews. There is a shop 5 miles from my house but they want $2800.

 

I've got 101k on my 351. If I wreck it soon, I'll let you know. You're only about 4 hours north of me.

 

Well, there are ways to tell that an engine is no good. Visual blowby is the easiest and very effective, pull oil cap and rev throttle by hand. It would have likely prevented you from the bad engine purchase in the first place, or made for a very good bargaining chip for the price.

 

On the way to the machine shop.

 

I believe 255-5 is the biggest you can run on a Speed Density...not the only. This is the cam that "Conanski" recommended for my build...which turn into my daughter's build. GT40's and that cam on an 87 with a M5OD. Haven't fired her yet, but I'm anxious.

 

So while I'm waiting on my motor I'm going to knock out some other things on my punch list. First is the turn signal. It doesn't stay on for the right. You have to hold the lever up. How does the column come off and I assume there is some sort of detent or locking pawl to keep it on. Any help is appreciated.

 

The part you need is called a turn signal cam. Removing the steering wheel will allow you to see it. The part isn't very expensive maybe $20 I can't remember exactly. When you get one make sure the metal tabs are touching the metal dots to make a connection otherwise you won't have turn signals. Usually you just have to bend it down a little and it will be fine. Hardest parts about it is removing the steering wheel and making sure when you solder it in place the heat doesn't affect anything else in the column.
Trav

 

Thank you.


.040 overbore.

 

Where are you in Roanoke? I grew up in Vinton. Will be up in the valley this weekend to see family for the 3-day weekend.
Don't forget to factor in a new clutch while it is out. I have rebuilt several of these engines and they are very simple to rebuild. The condition of that one looks like the previous owner didn't keep the oil changed.

 

Cave Spring. In Penn Forest subdivision.


Yes on the clutch. I had the flywheel resurfaced at the machine shop.

 

I know you are on a budget at the moment, but one of the best upgrades I did to my 88 302 truck is put a set of the shorty Headman headers on it. They connect up to the stock exhaust crossover pipe and make a big difference in the performance of the engine. I have towed a heavy car trailer a lot with mine and the headers made the difference between making it up a hill in 4th gear and having to downshift to 3rd gear.

 

Roughly a 308.... Need to paint Remington on the tailgate!

 

Headers I can bolt on later if I need to pretty easily. My wife had to resign her job due to medical reasons so we're counting every penny. And every penny that goes into this comes out of my dirt bike fund.


This truck is just a means to an end.


lol yeah I love how people talk about "bored 40 over" like it's a huge power gain.


Also I need a little help. I'm looking for 2 parts.


1) Is a soft fuel line. I split the upper of the 2 when I was removing them. I go the lower off, just not the upper. Yes I used the tool. And by upper and lower I mean where they attach on the manifold.


2) There was some sort of sensor on the front driver side of the motor behind the water pump. Just had a single stud electrical connection. It was on the block when I took it to the machine shop and wasn't when I got it. And I forgot all about it. Any idea what it is?


I need to get these parts on the way so I can put this together this weekend. Also I'm getting a new water pump as well.