I just finished building a 393 to put in my 1990 F150 reg cab 2wd pickup. The only changes I made to the motor other than the stroke was a 351w HO marine cam for torque and 4 hole injectors. I removed the air pump, egr valve, and the cats. The truck runs down the road decent but runs rich. The only trouble code I got was a 31. I'm going to check fuel pressure tonight. Has anyone else done this type of rebuild? I use this truck to pull my vintage modified race car.

 

I found last night that I had forgotten to hook up the vacuum for the MAP sensor. The new motor runs awesome now.

 

Stock heads? Surprised it idled at all with map unplugged, but that'll do it!

Also consider it a miracle if you removed the egr valve and it's not throwing a code or running poorly.

 

I have learned a lot with this project. I can't wait to hook the car trailer up and see how it pulls!

 

Removing the egr valve won't make the engine run badly. Unless a person doesn't block off the intake hole and vac lines.

 

A faulty egr component will throw a code, and cause annoying drivability issues like stumbling, hesitation, weird idle.

Removing the system altogether makes the computer think everything is faulty. Deleting egr on these is as simple as blocking off the ports where the tube is....preventing inert gas and crud from going into the intake, while keeping the computer happy with all the sensor/solenoid/vac line in tact.

Like I said, if you aren't experiencing a code or drivability issues then you are a lucky man, and you should be happy.

 

I guess you should have told the egr delete(d) fords I owned that....cause they ran fine with zero issues.

I've ran them blocked as you describe or completely removed with the CEL shining as brightly as it could be. No difference in mpg, power, idle or anything. Not my first rodeo.

 

Yep, heard that line plenty of times too. I go out and unplug mine, and it's raspy part throttle, stumbles on downshifts, annoying roughness at idle. Any of these trucks I've ever been around is like that, I guess you are the egr delete, engine is scared to run poorly around you.

It's a nuisance in running, often so slowly developed and so subtle that when you fix it the faulty egr component you're like "man this runs good". If you don't experience anything diff, more power to ya.

 

What I did guys was take the valve off and leave the solenoid plugged in. So far mine is running great. I used the stock y pipe and the converter that goes with it. I took a steel rod and cleaned the converter out and this goes to a single 3 inch exhaust that exits behind the RR tire. The truck sounds nice.

 

Your mention of poor performance, due to egr removal, is a new one to me.

The ONLY time I ever experienced a negative issue, was when I removed the egr valve, tab, tad solenoids, leaving the evp electrically connected, then proceeded to depress the evp plunger, in a fixed position until the CEL light went off, then every time I came to a stop, the truck stumbled or died. Basically, tricking the computer to think the egr valve was open all the time, thats a no go. Which is why using resistors at the evp connection, as a delete no CEL option doesn't always work.

But I've experienced zero issues leaving the egr valve in tact, with a block off plate between the egr valve and upper intake. Or zero issues removing all egr components in their entirety, physically and electrically, CEL shining away, with all respective openings, due to removal of, capped or closed..

This is over a period of years, not days or months or in hopes of some magical horsepower gain.

I don't recommend folks do it but if they can't leave chit alone or are trying to bypass faulty or nonexistent equipment, there is hope.

 

I've done that before, disconnected the tube, ran longer vac hose and electrical wire,and hide the whole thingout of sight.

You running speed density? Stock tune? Stock injector lb/hr? Wide band air fuel monitoring?

 

I'm not callin you a liar, I've been around enough to know that not all things are the same, nor are the interpretations always consistent of those doing the interpreting.

Lots of people have come on complaining about how their engines don't run right after egr deletes. Not many, if any, who are successful with removing the system and retaining drivability come on to express how they were successful. There are enough claims that it works, and it's easy enough to try, that it very well may be the case for some. What I know for a fact is; not everyone is successful, including myself.

 

I'm just saying, if folks aren't successful, then perhaps there are other factors at play.

Only variation would be using CEL eliminators, some ecms need a variable signal from the evp others do not. Which is why the resistor sometimes works, sometimes doesnt.

I'm open minded, sometimes, so I'm open to info that suggests otherwise, I just think your the first person I've known to suggest performance issues. Related to properly removed egr equipment.

We'll just have to agree, for most purposes, removing emissions junk, it's a complete waste of time and energy.

 

Motorhead Everything is stock except camshaft and 4 hole injectors. I didn't know you could make modifications to the computer. This is my first attempt at anything with injectors and computers. My vintage racer has a Holley 2bbl and the traditional performance modifications.

 

This is my old girl.<a href="1913548_10208635564429192_7873229962782253199_n.jp g Photo by vintageracer31 | Photobucket" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...82253199_n.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 1913548_10208635564429192_7873229962782253199_n.jp g"/></a>