I read that there was a complete kit for a bank of rockers and or push rods. I have what sounds like a bent pushrod/rocker problem (low speed , deep tone thump, thump, thump) and want to get an idea what the parts to fix this would cost. truck has 86K miles right now...little early for rocker problems but might was well do all of them while I am at it.

anyone who has done it, have an idea of the parts costs?

 

so I did a google and found each bank of rockers to cost around $207. so $414 there. the push rods are 6 bucks each so $96 bucks there. but in reading some removal and re-install instructions....mention is made of removing the fuel rail...which Im recalling was one time use..but there's no mention of replacing the fuel rail...maybe I got that wrong. in other threads mention is made of a speacial tool that is needed to compress springs, but no mention of that either in the below instructions.

I also read that someone claims they can removel and replace a whole bank of rockers and rods while the engine is installed in less than 30 minutes. anyone want to call BS on that one...how long would each bank take.

206.95 Rocker bank
206.95 Rocker bank

96 (5.73X16) push rods

Ford Workshop Manuals > F 250 2WD Super Duty V8-6.4L DSL Turbo (2009) > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm Assembly > Component Information > Service and Repair > Procedures > Page 1911



1. Remove the fuel rail.
2. NOTE: Mark the location of the rocker arm assemblies prior to removing.
Remove the bolts and the rocker arm assemblies as needed.
3. NOTE: Mark the location of the valve bridges before removing.
Remove the valve bridges.
-
Inspect the valve bridges for wear or damage and replace as needed.
4. NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, keep the push rods in the order in which they were removed. Install all push rods back in their
original positions.
Mark the location and remove the push rods.
5. Clean and inspect the rocker arm assemblies. For additional information, refer to Rocker Arm Cleaning and Inspection See: Service and
Repair/Procedures/Rocker Arm Cleaning and Inspection.
6. Clean and inspect the push rods. For additional information, refer to Push Rod Cleaning and Inspection See: Service and Repair/Procedures/Push
Rod Cleaning and Inspection.
Installation
1. NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, keep the push rods in the order in which they were removed. Install all push rods back in their
original positions.
NOTE: Install the copper ends of the push rods up.

 

I call BS on the 30 mins to change the push rods and rocker arms. It takes me 30 mins to pop the hood and add washer fluid.
Ok not really....but 30 mins seems a stretch.
IMHO

 

So looked a few YouTube videos and they include replacing the fuel lines since they have to be disconnected .

So the list
A. Rockers( root problem)
B. Rods ( likely that some are bent)
C. Fuel lines ( need to remove to gain access)
D. Rocker paddles ( likely to be worn)
E. Injectors ( in at 86k Miles and wonder should I just change them while is disassembled down to this level)

I could probally do washer fluid and ps, top off in 30 minutes.

 

Which is a reasonable job to take on, provided the lifters/cam is in good condition.

 

let us know how much time and money you spend. I plan on opening mine up to see what it looks like as soon as the weather breaks. I am hearing things, but it might be normal because every tech so far said there is nothing to worry about. I drove it yesterday and have to chase down a noisy belt culprit.

 

i'm trying to produce a realistic cost projection if I do it myself....so far..no one has jumped in with gotchas and whatch out for's.

So while the weather is still comfortable....need to decide how to access the rocker covers...seems like the folks who work on chasis cab 6.4's are able to pull covers with the cab on and the folks who work on 6.4's with truckbeds need to lift the cab. not sure why...but I need to look into that.

 

Valve covers can be removed without lifting the cab. Cab and chassis or pickup applications have nothing to do with that. Premature rocker arm tip wear is extremely common on these 6.4L engines. I have seen more than my share. One will come in with about 60,000 miles on it, and 15 of the 16 tips are worn almost flush, while the 6.0L in the bay beside with more than double that mileage shows almost zero wear on its rocker arm tips. If you have bent pushtube(s), the million dollar question becomes WHY. The last 6.4L I had in my bay with a dead misfire on a cylinder (I forgot which one), had a bent pushtube along with the rocker arm fulcrum broken. I was very tempted at the time to install new parts to try and glad I didn't. Deeper teardown revealed the roller on the lifter of the offending cylinder had fallen off!!! This resulted in scoring of that cam lobe as well.

 

So is it easier to pull the inner fender wells and go in from the sides or clear out the top and go in they there.

 

Valve covers can be removed from up top, inside the engine compartment. No need to remove inner fender wells. On the passenger side, simply remove the entire air cleaner as an assembly along with the air inlet. You then remove the glow plug controller and mounting bracket. On the driver side, you remove the turbo crossover, as well as the fuel and turbo cooler and mounting bracket. The glow plug harnesses remove much more easily on these engines than they do on the 6.0L engines. At least they can be removed without breaking them. With all of the above mentioned parts out of the way, the valve covers can be removed without too much difficulty.

 

I've read that if you experience rocker & rocker bridge wear that it might be cheaper in the end to replace the heads, especially if you already have higher mileage (say 175K+). I think new rockers & rocker bridges put the valves back in proper alignment, but the valves stems might have worn their bores & seats off center and no longer seat properly since the rockers were badly worn. A few folks that experienced this had to spend a lot more money in the end because they didn't know they needed to have their heads rebuilt (valve guides machined and installed) after spending the money for just rockers. I've seen New OEM Heads as low as $850 each from some online Ford Dealers.


Of course, the folks that had this problem had bad fuel dilution problems and rarely changed their oil, which lead to the extreme rocker tip wear...just food for thought...

 

yes...I am defintely trying to survey how costly this could get and tying to decide what makes the most sense. I got the truck with 84K mile and since it has a 5th wheel mount I doubt that is was just used to go to homedepot.