Aka "My Spark Disappeared"?

 

Thanks Tedster9!

I couldn't remember what MSD stood for.

 

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/172214-c6-kickdown-cable-adjustment.html

 

My kickdown cable is frayed at the throttle body so I don't think adjusting it would do much good. That is why I think the kickdown cable is sticking at times.


I know I need to find one though but adjusting it according to what I read sounds like it should help my issue.


So now to find a 302 EFI C6 kickdown cable (I know I am not getting one in a junkyard because nobody around here has a C6 with 302).
Trav

 

Weird, most late model C6 modulator valves should. The screw is inside the vacuum nipple - you have to take the hose off to access it.
No, that is not true. Hold it to the boards and see if it winds out to a little over 4k before shifting, or falls on its face.

The kickdown cable being frayed and broken is an issue too. If not adjusted correctly, your transmission won't have a 3-2 downshift, which is important on the highway.

 

Something you can do "FOR TESTING PURPOSES ONLY" if you have some string or zip ties, tie the kickdown lever it the WOT position and take a trip around the block and see where it shifts. If it has shifts above 4k then you need a cable and to adjust it.

Did this for a manual to c6 swap years ago and used zipties. And adjusted the ties click by click till it gave a shift point around 4200 then just ended up leaving it as was. Because it just became a mudding truck after awhile.

 

I will see if I can try that mudsport but my around the block is 5 miles till I can get up to even 50mph. That is one thing that sucks about living on 5miles of back roads.
Trav

 

Well, you should still know pretty quickly, it "shouldn't" shift out of first until governed max rpm shift, unless you manually select second gear because the kickdown lever is tied forward.

 

What is the governed first to second gear max rpm shift? Right now it shifts at 25mph which if I punch it it is at 2500 rpms.
Trav


Do you happen to know where to get a kick down cable for a C6? I am rebuilding the truck to be perfect so I am going to need to know either way.

 

Did you look into the vaccum line port? that is where the adjustment screw would be if it has one. I do not recall if all of them did or not, I do not believe the stock modulators where but just too long ago now.

They are or should be color coded ("stock" only perhaps?),

Purple or green band = cars

Black band = trucks

Turn screw clockwise for later firmer shifts, turn screw counter clockwise for earlier softer shifts

Regardless, in final drive the motor should have enough power to push itself beyond 3500 rpms/70mph. Its not going to go much faster but should hit 80 85 around there without too much trouble, large hill and or a heavy head wind could hamper it a little bit but at 70 3500rpms isn't at its limit yet.

If its doesn't I'd suggest looking into that aspect, verify timing is properly advancing out where it should be and that fuel pressure is sufficient etc at that speed/rpm.


This is a "New" motor right? properly broke in?

If have doubts might need a compression test to verify it is where it should be that it the rings did seat as expected, all cylinders 100% and are all participating equally.

 

You just said in an earlier post if you punch it, it shifts at 3700 RPM?

 

1-2 2500rpm
2-3 3700rpms


Ya it was properly broke in (I was very adimint about it) and all compression is equal I did check it after break in. I had the local machine shop who bored my engine look at it also and they said it looked and sounded good too and they have built tons of performance engines and did a really good job on. Fuel pressure is all within spec and I have double triple checked the timing although I may end up going to 13 degrees BTDC instead of 12 when I replace the plugs and such.
The engine only has 3500 miles on it.
If their is no head winds I can do 70-85 no issue but once a headwind and hill I drop to 60 but once I get over the hill back to 70. I will have to look if there is an adjuster screw. I don't remember seeing one when I replaced the rubber on the vacuum line.


The PO did some really stupid things with the current transmission so I wouldn't doubt something got adjusted to make it shift sooner. Stupid like tie wiring things, butspliced connectors on the neutral safety switch and such.
Trav

 

when the downshift cable is adjusted properly the governor in the transmission controls upshifts at a given fluid pressure and the pressure is controlled by how far the downshift lever is pulled. I think somewhere around 4200 rpms

I've been looking and haven't found one online at any parts stores but looks like summit or Jegs may have them

 

Upshifts are controlled by the vacuum modulator. The kickdown cable/rod just allows a 3-2 kickdown.

I've been looking and haven't found one online at any parts stores but looks like summit or Jegs may have them[/QUOTE]

 

Did you ever get this situation resolved?