No, those idle mixture screws should be OK. There is an idle speed screw that, when tightened, will open the throttle a bit more. It acts on the throttle linkage. Here's a pic:



Here's a nice little primer on adjusting the idle mixture screws should you want to do that later on after you can get the engine running long enough to be warm.

 

Ah duh yes I will tighten that one down a bit.

 

Halle-freaking-lujah she runs! Fe390pc, scott79, somethingclever, and Flowney thank you guys so much! I know helping someone over the internet isn't easy but I do appreciate it!


Flowney I know I am not done yet tho, it stumbled when I gave it gas, I assume this is where the vacuum advance comes in? Didn't have a golf tee but a spare bolt sealed the tube up just fine.

 

You can continue to manually adjust the distributor in very small increments until you get a decent idle with the vacuum advance still blocked. Then get to work with the timing light so that you have the most accurate reading of degrees advance. Write that value down, reconnect the vacuum line and see how you like the way it drives. Rinse and repeat until you find this engine's happy place. Good luck and remember to block the vacuum line every time you use the timing light.

 

2X on what Flowney said.

Congrats on getting it started. When you rev'ed the motor in the latest video, it sounds like the timing is still quite off. Do as Flowney has suggested and adjust in very small increments, and make sure you hook up a timing light so you can see the results of those small increments.

When I first fired up my motor, I was quite shocked to see how a very small turn of the distributor resulted in a very large change in the timing. IE, Adjust everything very slowly and incrementally.

 

Thanks guys, I will start working on getting the engine timed better.

While I'm doing that I noticed some of my vac plugs are in poor shape (shocked cz they are only 2-3yrs old) so I replaced them with new caps but can anyone help me confirm which plugs are just extra and which should have hoses?
1. I assume the rusted pipe on the passenger header (circled in green) should be Plummed up to the thermactor hose (circled in blue)?
2. So do I just have 3 extra vac ports at the rear?
3. What's the port on the top of the carb (circled in red)
4. The two vac ports up front? Just extra?
5. Lastly noticed why I never had coolant temp, the wire was off. The old thermostat housing had the plug on the side, I didn't install it on the new one (didn't know better at the time) but I saw another plug on top of the manifold (currently where wire is plugged). Are they both the same? If not which one should I use? Why are there two plugs? (circled in yellow) ... ok while looking at the pic I noticed a 3rd Plug
(circled in white)? What gives?

 

Also was fiddlin with the truck, was wondering why I couldn't let the truck out without some horrible metal spinning noise and shaking (all the vids from the other day I have the Clutch depressed the entire time)... so I stuck my phone under there to record and apparently my transmission won't go into neutral. And the spinning noise was the rear driveshaft turning while disconnected from the rear . I took off the trans to t/case driveshaft and put the truck in gear, can't turn the output shaft... put it back in neutral... can spin the output shaft. Battery was getting weak so I haven't started it again but will record to see if output shaft is still spinning... confused how this issue would pop up out of nowhere.

 

Bump. Still hoping someone has some decent pics or knowledge of how the vac lines should be ran. Searching only brings up a million threads and no one ever gets an answer lol.


Also confused on the trans output shaft. Some say a little bit of spinning is normal from parasitic drag in the gear oil... but this is spinning with enough force I can't keep it still with my hand... so is the normal load of the truck sitting on the tires enough to stop that or did something freeze up in my transmission? Have a video of truck running and output shaft spinning in different positions. Can post if it'll help explain the problem. Could be over thinking it but better safe than sorry.

 

Googled 76 ford truck vacuum diagram and there is plenty that should help with the hoses. The location of the temp sensor looks normal to me.

How does the transfer case shift? Sure sounds more like a T/ case issue rather than tranny. I bet it doesn't spin by itself with a d shaft hooked to rear end.

. "I took off the trans to t/case driveshaft and put the truck in gear, can't turn the output shaft... put it back in neutral... can spin the output shaft."

Why is the above behavior concerning? Feeble memory makes me think you have never actually had a properly connected transfer case when you bought the truck. Maybe I'm wrong on that but you DID take the d shafts from the clunker out back.

 

I'll retry my google-fu and see if that helps.

The t case I picked up was said to be in decent condition when taken out...and I really just tossed it in so it was out of the way. I can really only "feel" 3 different positions when I should have 4 but during my "quick" check the other day, both output shafts spun when I rotated the input shaft. Would think neutral and 2HI would stop the front output shaft (for front axle) from spinning. But again never played with a transfer case disconnected so I'm just going on assumptions.

You're correct my original set up was a pisspoor 2wd setup so the transfer case is new to the truck

"I took off the trans to t/case driveshaft and put the truck in gear, can't turn the output shaft... put it back in neutral... can spin the output shaft."

Why is the above behavior concerning?

That part isn't concerning; I was stating that in my mind that was correct, with the truck off, output shaft seemed "locked" when in gear and not locked while in neutral.... I was then confused as to why the output shaft would then spin when the truck is running.... Hindsight now I guess that means the parasitic drag is probably what's happening.

Will hook all the shafts back up and see if it's still an issue. Will make sure my DD isn't in front tho lol. Wouldn't have even stressed about this but the rear DS was unhooked from the rear and making some awful noise when I let the clutch out.... just unhooked it and problem "solved" for now lol.

 

A little statement about the above issue.

"With trans in neutral and clutch "out", the input shaft is turning and "internal windage" as the trans lube is swirled will still apply a rotation to the output shaft when there's nothing to stop it turning.... like when you slide the TC into neutral on the way from 2hi to 4lo.

Mine has a C-6 and while I can shift from 2hi to 4hi with trans neutral with engine running, I need to stop and place trans in PARK before going from 2hi through TC neutral to 4lo for similar reason.

The deal is when thatTC hits neutral,there is nothing to stop it's input shaftfrom turning, and that means nothing to stop the transmission output from turning.... (except in my case when I place C-6 in Park the park pawl locks the trans output shaft) .....and in your case, pushing the clutch in will minimize it.If your clutch drags a hair, you'll maybe need to shut your engine off .... in which case the clutch needs adjustment."

 

Much better description right there. Thanks Rich

 

Any updates on the tranny/trans issue? Did you reconnect that rear driveshaft and see if you really get neutral?

 

Not yet, work got busy and currently it's too dang cold to be out there right now lol. Hoping to make some progress soon tho!

 

Got some goodies yesterday. Fenders and doors aren't perfect but they aren't rusty like mine. Going to clean the up and see if I can make them good. Got a new core support so now I can get rid of my rusty one and kick the bent one that I painted to the curb. Also fan shroud should fit. When I bought the truck it had a random one wire tired on and one I got from grinner didn't fit... so third times the charm! And then he twisted my arm with a good price so I picked up this Dana 60 w/ 4.10s so I can finally take care of my rear axle PO clusterf****