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I gotta replace the distributor on my FE. I know it's gonna be tough because it won't hardly turn. What are y'alls tips and tricks for getting this thing out without breaking it in two?
There's no real trick to it; just wiggle it out. The fact that it is difficult to turn shouldn't make the job harder. Basically you're disengaging the distributor gear from the cam gear and these parts are kept lubricated by the oiling system. Hopefully the "keeper" clip is on the oil pump shaft or it may come out too (makes more work for you). By the same token, when you install the new distributor make sure that it engages the oil pump shaft properly; don't force anything. Once the distributor is installed it probably won't drop all the way until the motor is rotated a little bit (I turn it by hand); the distributor and cam gears seem to need a slight rotation before they mesh all the way. Just be patient and you shouldn't have any problems.
I suggest rotating it back and forth to loosen it up. Watch that the pump shaft doesn't get stuck in the bottom of the distributor. Mine did, and actually popped the retainer right off and dropped into the pan. MAJOR PROBLEM. Tap on the top of the shaft before pulling if it's stuck.
I've actually been back into mine, removing the oil pan twice to retrieve dropped shafts. This requires hoisting the engine, removing the pump through the small opening available when the pan bolts are removed the removing the pan. getting the gaskt back in place is tricky. :-( I didn't know what the clip was for and lost it in the rebuild. I found out the hard way what it was for...twice even!
Tap the the distributor when trying to remove it, to encourage the shaft to come lose before it's too far up from the pump!
And as said before, gently reinsatll it turning the crank to help the shaft settle into the bottom of the distributor. The 2nd time I goofed, I tightened the dizzy down with the retainer bolt, bending the shaft.
i have a couple little things that might help...when turning the engine by hand (at the crank bolt) make sure you turn clockwise, if you spin it opposite of the engine rotation the bolt holding the pulley will spin off when you start it, or at least that was my experience. also you dont need to over tighten the hold down bolt...snapping it off next time you try to loosen it sucks
You might also spray a bunch of penetrant around it as you work it. One of the things that makes them sticky is all the gum and varnish that build up in there. We tied a chain hoist to one on a Merc and lifted the front tires off the floor and it still didn't budge. We ended up busting it to pieces to get it out. Big Pita.
I think if I dropped a shaft, I would just stick a magnet on the pan to keep it from flying around and leave it in there.
My brother-in-law has a 3-foot long pair of channel-locks. Coolest thing I've ever used to break loose a sticky distributor (on a 460). I wish he could remember where he got them.
I've used an oil filter wrench to work loose a dizzy. Take off the vac. adv. and slip the wrench over the housing. When it gets tight flip the wrench over and go the other way.
The trouble of why it get hung up is form not changing the oil aften enough plus a very poor grade of oil or a non-detergent and
the engine running way too cold. It should not run less than 160 temp. The distributor housing lower part where it slides in to the block is where it get stuck form all sludge and varnish like crap that coats the whole inside of your poorly maintained engine.
And you can bank on it.
An old ford man for the pass 45 yrs
orich, I had an engine builder tell me the same thing 20 years ago and have found it to be true every time I find a gunked up old Ford. Too cold a t-stat and poor oil(usually Penzoil).
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