I have a 96 F350 4x4 crew cab with the 7.3 PSD. Earlier today, I replaced the starter. While putting the rebuilt starter back on, the power wire to the starter briefly (half a second) touched the frame of the truck. After getting everything back together, the engine turns over fast like it's supposed to, but it will not start. Ive checked all of the colored fuses under the hood and in the cab, and all look ok. Can somebody help PLEASE!

 

TEST the fuses, esp. #9 and #22 under the hood. You may also have a blown fusible link between the main power junction point on the starter relay and the underhood fuse box.

Does the WTS light come on?

Sounds like someone forgot the disconnect BOTH battery negatives.....

 

Just getting ready to ask about unhooking the batteries. You are just too fast madpogue.

I would think that if the fusible link was blown then the starter wouldn't turn. Don't know though.

Also, the next questions are usually does the tach move and are you getting any white smoke out of the tailpipe.

Kevin

 

Ok, checked all of the fuses with a test light (under hood and in cab), and all were good. No white smoke, and tach barely moves when cranking.the WTS light does come on for the standard 3 -4 seconds, then goes out. Thanks guys for all of your replies! Hopefully you can help me narrow it down some more.

 

Just a shot in the dark, hows your engine oil level? I know its unrelated but worth a shot
Both batterys connected?

 

Why did you change the starter?
Did it start OK before changing the starter?

 

Both batteries new and have good connection. Oil level sitting on the full mark. HPOP replaced 6 months ago. Truck ran great until I had starter rebuilt. I had the starter rebuilt because it would intermittently drag. The man that rebuilt the starter has been doing it for years, and he said that the brushes were shot. Also, all headlights and everything electrical work as best I can tell.

 

.Btw, is there any fuses between the starter and the black fuse box in the engine compartment?

*** Also, the two small 15 amp fuses on the left upper corner of the fuse box #6 and #7 (fuses closest to engine block) do not have power on either side.***

I do not have a owners manual to this truck, so i do not know what they are for.

 

There's a fuse that energizes the start contacts on the ignition switch, that ultimately energizes the starter relay. But if the engine is cranking, the starter circuit is not the issue.

How fast is it cranking? You said initially that it's cranking fast, but then mentioned that the tach barely moves. I wonder if the batteries are weak and not cranking the starter fast enough. You need both a minimum RPM and a minimum voltage for it to start, and with weak batteries, it'll continue to crank the engine, but if either the voltage or the cranking RPM are too low, it won't bark.

 

To make sure it isn't just a coincidence, might check the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel bowl while cranking the engine. Even though the fuel pump is mechanical and it should be unrelated.

Kevin

 

I've had it on the charger for 24 hours. Plenty of cranking juice and speed. Lights are nice and bright. Thanks Madpogue for the help. Also, I just discovered that #6 and 7 fuses under the hood have no power on either side. Also, while we're at it, what is the round solenoid looking gadget that is mounted to the passenger fender well next to the coolant reservoir? Has two larger terminals on it.

 

Can you post a pic of it?

 

The reason I ask... this truck has a alternating headlight flasher installed on it )It's actually mounted right next to this solenoid in the pic.) Yesterday after the first attempt at cranking, the truck briefly turned over and then everything went dark, lights and all. Discovered that the negative terminal on the passenger battery was slightly loose, so i cleaned and re tightened and everything came back. After this episode happened with everything going dark, the relay in the flasher started alternating, although the lights were not on or flashing...the headlight flasher has a constant hot wire going to the hot side of this solenoid. The flasher is on activated by a toggle switch in the cab. It did this until the negative terminal was removed from the battery. Once back together, the flasher worked fine. This may have absolutely nothing to do with anything, but I wanted to include it.

*I know this all sounds like a police interrogation. .. more questions reveal more facts or answers. Sorry that I forgot to include this info earlier (sigh)

 

I took a quick look at my engine bay fuse box and I don't see 2 15 amp fuses together. Does your fuse box look like this?




Kevin

 

Yes sir Kevin. The two 15 amp fuses that I have are in the top of the red block cluster like you have. After some research, looks like they may be turn signal fuses?