I did some searching and saw the oil cooler is different but is it different meaning it won't work? My truck is a 2wd. I also saw motor mounts are different but they existing ones should mount up right? Also I saw some people say the oil pans were different and some say they were the same, and injection lines were different but that it was just a pulse adapter location which didn't matter. I also read an exhaust manifold was different is the right?

I found a non turbo 7.3l from a van for $800 that was just overhauled 40k ago but wasn't sure how much trouble it was worth. I was hoping to have the spare injection lines, and oil cooler plus refreshed heads at the very least. The engine starts and runs fine, the vehicle was just side swiped and totaled. I know the turbo engines have better rods and pistons but wasn't sure how much of a difference that would make.

 

I think the oil cooler difference is based on space under the hood in each vehicle style. You could always swap the oil cooler.

IIRC, the oil pans are reversed between the truck and van, wrt. the deep end being front vs. rear. I ***THINK*** the bolt pattern allows it to be reversed, but obviously the oil pickup inside must be different. Again, probably all bolt-up swappable stuff.

 

The oil pans are the same. You may be thinking of the International 7.3 trucks that have the different sump. The oil cooler is different but I remember reading that you can use the van cooler in a truck if the driver side van motor mount is also used. You can also swap the cooling core to the truck end bodies. As mentioned there is a manifold difference. The fuel filter head is mounted in the engine valley on a van instead of off to the passenger side. It can be swapped if desired. The pulse adapter is on injector line 4 instead of line 1 but makes no difference.

You say it was overhauled 40K ago... Do you know who did the work? What was actually done to it? What brand parts were used? If it's a Jasper rebuild I'd pass. There's more than a few horror stories about their IDI rebuilds.

 

I was really hoping to reuse the oil cooler since the headers can't be purchased anymore. I had my engine drop to 6psi hot idle the other day, but my pressure sensor is on turbo and I run 5w40 sythetic. I'm going to pull filter and look at pressure regulator next time I have it on the lift. It's been 10-12psi hot idle with the 40f Temps the other day it got up to almost 70 and that's when I saw it dropping. Coolant temp was about 4f hotter than normal.

I specifically asked if it was jasper he said no started with a p or something like penden? He was checking for me. Sounds like it's not that great for me though if I can't reuse the oil cooler. I was hoping to swap the engine in while I freshen up my 200k turbo motor then reinstall the rebuilt heads with possibly head studs on the turbo motor and install back in once I got it all done.

 

But I think you can use the van oil cooler if you get the motor mount and bracket to go with it...

 

you cannot fit the van cooler in the truck frame, being about 3 inches lower it will hit long before the mount is close.
As for your oil pressure, you cant service the pressure regulator without removing the cooler. the one you see with filter off is a bypass for cold oil/plugged filter.

 

Thanks! I'll have to call and tell them I can't use the engine then.

When I was researching I saw this page and figured I could try to carefully reach with a pick and see if I could feel the plunger edge

diezelcrazeesidipage-oilregulatingvalve

Im also going to run a new ground to gauge ground (currently at kick pannel), and purchase a mechanical gauge to install in place of the factory pressure sensor that's directly next to my gauge sensor.

Crusing at 60mph/2000rpm oil pressure is about 30-34psi. When it's cold and I Rev it to 3,000 I can see 45-50psi. Maybe I should switch to 15w40 rotella too. I noticed on the last oil change switching from the fl1995 wix filter to kn 6001 my cruusing pressure dropped 2psi. Probably because kn is 10 micron and wix was 20. I did rebuild oil cooler but that was done as same time I installed the pressure gauge. I've only had the truck since october so haven't driven it in any warm weather to see what actual pressure on hot day is.

 

Drivers side manifold is different, because of the oil cooler sitting lower. Fuel filter is bolted directly on the intake manifold, drivers side, and one of the mounts is different (I can't remember witch side).


Keep your old mounts you'll be fine, swap in the drivers side manifold and oil cooler from the truck engine - onto the van engine, and shes ready to drop in.

The fuel filter doesn't need to change place, and it's the same filter as the trucks.

A minor detail you don't have to pay attention to is the factory timing adapter, if still present, will be on injector #4 for van engines, and Injector #1 for truck engines.


I own 3 diesel vans, and 5 diesel trucks, so any details, just ask

 

John is your man for the info, I think both mounts are different, one a little one alot.
You can pick the regulator but it is likely the spring getting weak, your pressure is not bad for an older engine, test with a mechanical gauge, and yes I prefer 15-40, 5w is a little light

 

Wow, that's alot of IDIs!

Thanks so much for the info guys. I ended up passing on the engine.

I'll change my oil over to mobil delvac 15w 40 next oil change and see what it does to my pressures, then install mechanical gauge if still low. The top port on the turbo with the factory pressure sensor is the best spot to check pressure right?