IAC Valve question
#61
The picture is not 100% accurate....the Canister Purge (CANP) solenoid is not a sensor, it's actuated by the computer to vent the stored fuel vapors from the fuel tank charcoal canister into the intake tract. Early EFI engines did not have the solenoid. If you are not getting a code for a CANP issue, yours does not have one.
Note: the above implies the port for the CANP is before the throttle blades, therefore even if it was not plugged it would not be a vacuum leak. I would verify it is capped off just to prevent unfiltered air into the intake.
Note: the above implies the port for the CANP is before the throttle blades, therefore even if it was not plugged it would not be a vacuum leak. I would verify it is capped off just to prevent unfiltered air into the intake.
#62
#63
The picture is not 100% accurate....the Canister Purge (CANP) solenoid is not a sensor, it's actuated by the computer to vent the stored fuel vapors from the fuel tank charcoal canister into the intake tract. Early EFI engines did not have the solenoid. If you are not getting a code for a CANP issue, yours does not have one.
Note: the above implies the port for the CANP is before the throttle blades, therefore even if it was not plugged it would not be a vacuum leak. I would verify it is capped off just to prevent unfiltered air into the intake.
Note: the above implies the port for the CANP is before the throttle blades, therefore even if it was not plugged it would not be a vacuum leak. I would verify it is capped off just to prevent unfiltered air into the intake.
Yea good eye, that port is forward of the blades on it so wouldn't be a "vac leak", only allow for a very small amount of unfiltered air if left uncapped.
#64
Its possible it has a CANP but its hanging/laying down below someplace, if a 90 model year had one or not I couldn't say, if it does it only need to be electrically active to prevent throwing a code.
Looked into it briefly and based on claims made the 5.8L got it in 89, the 5.0L not until 92.
That must be true "I read it on the internet"!!
must be another one of them "light duty" "heavy duty" things.
Looked into it briefly and based on claims made the 5.8L got it in 89, the 5.0L not until 92.
That must be true "I read it on the internet"!!
must be another one of them "light duty" "heavy duty" things.
#65
This truck had two owners b4 me the plus side is the first owner kept it in the garage evey day. I know the body paint on these years was crap! It only had surface rust for the longest time! Even the wheel wells weren't even rusted through until a year ago! But yes i know it can still rust, just might take longer especially in the humidity and salt capitol of the U.S. lol but i will do some checking this weekend, hopefully! And get back to you!!
#66
One other thing gentlemen have you guys seen the thread on the internet about running the pcv valve where the brake booster is on the intake tree and running the brake booster, to the back of the intake is this a good idea you think? I know sometimes that elbow on the pcv valve could be wore out that's why i asked
#67
I did that mod on my old '92. The theory behind it is sound IMHO. While I was at it I installed a new PCV and eliminated the rubber section between the PCV and the valve cover and the grommet on the cover itself. That rubber section was dry rotted and a source of a vacuum leak. Another item that would be difficult to find with the "spray" test or propane. It takes some good detective work to track these pesky items down.
While working on the PCV mod I found the gasket between the upper and lower intake was leaking at several manifold runners. Once again no amount of spraying carb. cleaner found that either. Others swear by that method, I swear at it...
While working on the PCV mod I found the gasket between the upper and lower intake was leaking at several manifold runners. Once again no amount of spraying carb. cleaner found that either. Others swear by that method, I swear at it...
#68
I did that mod on my old '92. The theory behind it is sound IMHO. While I was at it I installed a new PCV and eliminated the rubber section between the PCV and the valve cover and the grommet on the cover itself. That rubber section was dry rotted and a source of a vacuum leak. Another item that would be difficult to find with the "spray" test or propane. It takes some good detective work to track these pesky items down.
While working on the PCV mod I found the gasket between the upper and lower intake was leaking at several manifold runners. Once again no amount of spraying carb. cleaner found that either. Others swear by that method, I swear at it...
While working on the PCV mod I found the gasket between the upper and lower intake was leaking at several manifold runners. Once again no amount of spraying carb. cleaner found that either. Others swear by that method, I swear at it...
#69
"Once again no amount of spraying carb. cleaner found that either. Others swear by that method, I swear at it..."
Totally agree with this. This worked to a point with Carbs, but I haven't seen it be of any use with EFI. I don't know why either.
I use a propane torch with a piece of clear poly tubing and use that to check for intake and vacumm leaks. Carburetor cleaner is the worst thing to use when rubber or a similar compound is used as a gasket between 2 surfaces. Either use MAF/Throttle body or Electrical Cleaner to check. These won't destroy gaskets.
Totally agree with this. This worked to a point with Carbs, but I haven't seen it be of any use with EFI. I don't know why either.
I use a propane torch with a piece of clear poly tubing and use that to check for intake and vacumm leaks. Carburetor cleaner is the worst thing to use when rubber or a similar compound is used as a gasket between 2 surfaces. Either use MAF/Throttle body or Electrical Cleaner to check. These won't destroy gaskets.
#70
"Once again no amount of spraying carb. cleaner found that either. Others swear by that method, I swear at it..."
Totally agree with this. This worked to a point with Carbs, but I haven't seen it be of any use with EFI. I don't know why either.
I use a propane torch with a piece of clear poly tubing and use that to check for intake and vacumm leaks. Carburetor cleaner is the worst thing to use when rubber or a similar compound is used as a gasket between 2 surfaces. Either use MAF/Throttle body or Electrical Cleaner to check. These won't destroy gaskets.
Totally agree with this. This worked to a point with Carbs, but I haven't seen it be of any use with EFI. I don't know why either.
I use a propane torch with a piece of clear poly tubing and use that to check for intake and vacumm leaks. Carburetor cleaner is the worst thing to use when rubber or a similar compound is used as a gasket between 2 surfaces. Either use MAF/Throttle body or Electrical Cleaner to check. These won't destroy gaskets.
#71
One of the only reasons im trying to get this problem solved is because, my daughter is getting ready to get her drivers license and she likes driving the ol' truck and i want it to run half way decent!! Im mean i just fixed the parking brake! It never worked til last week! Works good now though plus i got a utility trailer and i dont want all that weight on the trans. thanks again for the help!!!! Cant tell u that enough!!!!
#73
Ok, here's what is what I've done so far: looked at both VRES. I did see some rust but neither all all the way through. I pressurized them through manufold side didn't here any air through the, VRES. but it did blow back through the load side when reversed! Hope its supposed to do that! Im going to the TB, next! Thanks
#74