Will the addition of a plate with no hole cause the check engine light to come on? I was considering adding a plate with a 1/8" hole, but if the light won't come on with no hole, then I may very well do that.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 11-Jan-02 AT 03:06 PM (EST)]The dealer mechanic told me that completely blocking the flow on the 4.9L by using the foil ball method prior to the EGR valve will not affect the vacuum function of the valve, just stop the flow. Since the valve still functions, the computer thinks everything is working as per design. As far as using a restrictor plate between the EGR and the intake, either on the 4.9L or any of the V8's with the same problem, you should only need to provide a small hole in the plate IF you get pinging after you try it without one. Either way, the light will not come on just because the flow is stopped...it'll only come on if the vacuum is disconnected and plugged, thereby disabling the function of the valve.

 

As for using the foil ball, what size wrench did you have to use to get the tube off? Also, mine looks rusty and like it may be hard to get off without breaking something. Did you have any trouble?

Mine is the 96 with the 300 I6.

Bob

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Feb-02 AT 08:24 PM (EST)]Well since this thread is still active, I might as well update y'all on my EGR fix.

Just over a week ago I did finish and put the steel restrictor plate between the EGR and the air plenum. I've read everything from restricting the two holes down to two 1/4" holes, to just totally restricting both holes entirely.

I decided on a 1/8" hole for each of the larger (quite large, actually) stock EGR holes on my restrictor plate. I used two new EGR gaskets and some high-temp gasket sealant to stick it all together.

Lessee, how can I describe how nice my truck is to drive now...? Well, it's like a brand new truck. Having that hesitation with a manual transmission just made it all too noticeable, and the fix got rid of the hesitation, plus the thing idles like a brand new japanese car.

I'm enthused to the point that I just want to walk around town in a Ford-blue Santa Claus suit, throwing in a restrictor plate into every 4.9 Ford I see.[img src="http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/d/s/dsh167/fordsmiley.gif"]

If anyone here either posted about the restrictor plates they had, or answered any questions I had in other posts -- Thank You.

 

I unplugged the vacuum line to the EGR valve and it made no difference in the situation. Engine still stumbles when I smoothly accelerate.
Could maybe the valve itself be stuck in a certain position?? Could there be a lot of carbon build up and not letting the valve move and operate that would cause this problem? Maybe stuck in wide open position?

Thanks all

 

But did ya plug that vacuum line when you unplugged it (before you ran it)?

 

Saxon, In my experience if unplugging the vacuum line did no good then the problem is not directly related to the EGR flow. Personally I have never worried about plugging the line for a test run, the test would reveal the same results for me either way. As to the question on carbon build up. That would also be like a restriction and could come close to doing what a restrictor plate will do. If the Egr valve was stuck partially or completely open you would have a rough idle to dying at idle type of problem. Try checking all of the secondary igniton system. Also fuel pressure and fuel filter.

 

I went to the cheapo Autolite plugs....and then was tracing the EGR lines.... when I made a discovery...and learned a lesson. The expensive plugs were gapped according to the book in the store, to the Wal Mart computer, and to the Chiltons manual....at 0.054". Now, when checking the EGR sticker under the hood, I noticed the spark plug gap spec for my truck (1991 F150 5.0). The sticker read 0.044". The lesson: don't trust the spark plug book, the Wal Mart computer, or the Chilton's manual. They were all wrong.

Regapping the plugs took care of about 75% of my problem, but I do still have hesitation when the engine gets warm. I guess I still have work to do.

Check the simple things.....

 

Bob (64Ford),

My post you were replying to was misleading. I ended up building a restrictor plate with a single 1/8 inch hole, and installing that in lieu of the foil ball. I should have edited it earlier, but since I didn't see any more posts relating to it afterwards, I (quite frankly) blew it off. I have a friend who did the foil ball trick and it did work for him, though. The restrictor plate was almost as easy though, and I thought it would last longer, as the foil might degrade over time. Regardless, the hesitation is completely gone in both our trucks, so either method should work if that is the real problem. I apologize for not correcting my earlier post. Mia culpa!

 

this happened to my dads F150 with the 4.9 try having the injectors cleaned. the real way, not the add in crap. I had to do it in my 89 mustang twice, and my dad has done it too. fixes it right up

Dave

 

Nitro, by secondary ignition system, do you mean wires & plugs??

And how do you clean the injectors? I have always tried to run quality gas but after 150,000 miles I would not doubt they are dirty.

Has anyone ever used that "GM Top Engine Clean" stuff???

 

I had the same problem but it was cured by cleaning out the passage on INTAKE MANIFOLD SIDE of the EGR valve. Mechanic said it was all crudded up. My 5.8 93F1540SC runs great now

 

to clean the injectors, just take it to a shop or the dealership. The dealership that I go to runs this cleaner stuff through the engine. They disconnect the power to the fuel pump, and plug in this machine that runs the engine just on this cleaner stuff. Costs around 90 or so, but it does wonders.
Dave

 

Saxon- yes, cap, rotor, plugs, etc. Check the basics. Fuel pressure. If you can find a source for BG products try 44k in the tank. $25 a can but if there is any mechanic in a can that will work this will. Otherwise the post about using a flush machine is a good way. Snap On has one called a motorvac that is real good.