Clicking from axle or driveshaft at 10-40 km/h vibrations at 50-110km/h - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Go Back  Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
Reload this Page >

Clicking from axle or driveshaft at 10-40 km/h vibrations at 50-110km/h

Notices
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Clicking from axle or driveshaft at 10-40 km/h vibrations at 50-110km/h

  #1  
Old 02-20-2016, 12:29 PM
pat420swed
pat420swed is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 394
pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Clicking from axle or driveshaft at 10-40 km/h vibrations at 50-110km/h

My truck started making a clicking noise from either the back axle or the driveshaft or possibly t case on Tuesday. It would happen when accelerating from a stop and it would be a slow click and get faster as the truck went faster. It would only happen sometimes and only happens when I am accelerating and not coasting.

Now it is happening every time I accelerate from a stop and is louder and sounds worse. I am also now getting a vibration through the cab while accelerating anywhere in the range of 50km/h to 120km/h, I didn't try to see if it would smooth out going any faster then 120.

The vibration is pretty bad and makes the mirrors shake, it started off with absolutely no vibration in the steering wheel, only feeling it in my seat and feet as well as if I held the 4x4 shifter it would shake more then usual too. But now I feel it in the steering wheel too, it also only started vibrating at 90-110 but now it does it the whole time in the range of 50-120.

I pulled all the tires off today and checked for anything in the drums that could be causing it, nothing seemed wrong with them. I jacked up both axles and felt for Play in the tires for a possible bad wheel bearing and again everything felt good. I also looked at the driveshaft and checked for free play and nada, it seemed fine, I greased the front hubs and the king pins as well as all the universals today and took it out again and it's still doing it.

I also jacked up the back axle and put it in gear and let the tires spin (both in reverse and 1st 2nd and drive) and It wouldn't make the noise. Seems it will only make the noise under acceleration and having to push the truck.

Anyone have any ideas of what else I should check and what else could be the culprit? Thanks guys
 
  #2  
Old 02-20-2016, 12:36 PM
Macrobb's Avatar
Macrobb
Macrobb is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,729
Macrobb is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
I've tested this sort of thing by jacking the back tires up and spinning things really fast; I put it in top gear and got those wheels spinning 60MPH at least.

You may need a helper to hold the throttle, or you might be able to use a zip tie or something to hold the throttle lever depressed enough to get the RPM you need.

Then, you can look underneath for whats vibrating.

I ended up finding a rubber boot on the driveline had partially disintegrated, and was flopping around at speed. Stopped, it just pulled back together and didn't look broken.
 
  #3  
Old 02-20-2016, 12:36 PM
PlumCrazy7
PlumCrazy7 is online now
Elder User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 804
PlumCrazy7 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Missed the part where you inspected u-joints. If you haven't serviced the differential in a while I'd pull the cover and see what you can see.
 
  #4  
Old 02-20-2016, 12:52 PM
pat420swed
pat420swed is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 394
pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Thanks for the quick replies guys, I actually just topped off the diff fluid as well today when I was under there. I will take your advice and bring the truck up to speeds while on the jack stands and see if I can hear where the noise is coming from or see what's causing the vibrations, I should note I replaced the rear diff seal where the yoke goes in last winter, it hasn't caused my any problems since then, and if I remember correctly I think it would vibrate when I let off the gas not when I was on the gas like it is now.
I'm gonna wait till tomorrow as hopefully my driveway won't be a giant puddle like it was today from this warm spell were having in Ontario that's melting all the snow and flooding everywhere. Thanks again and if anyone else has any ideas feel free to post them I will definitely give them a try
 
  #5  
Old 02-20-2016, 01:01 PM
AKHunter93's Avatar
AKHunter93
AKHunter93 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 763
AKHunter93 has a good reputation on FTE.AKHunter93 has a good reputation on FTE.
Have you checked your driveshaft U-joints? When mine went bad it caused the same vibration you're describing.
 
  #6  
Old 02-20-2016, 02:56 PM
pgg00
pgg00 is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NW WA
Posts: 1,130
pgg00 is a name known to allpgg00 is a name known to allpgg00 is a name known to allpgg00 is a name known to allpgg00 is a name known to allpgg00 is a name known to all
I had this happen on my f350. I had lost a bolt that connected the drive shaft to the transfer case. Another bolt was backed out halfway
 
  #7  
Old 02-20-2016, 03:25 PM
pat420swed
pat420swed is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 394
pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Originally Posted by Russell F Cary View Post
Have you checked your driveshaft U-joints? When mine went bad it caused the same vibration you're describing.
yes, my u joint at the axle isn't even five months old and the one at the top seems to be in good shape. I checked for free play in both and they seemed fine
 
  #8  
Old 02-20-2016, 03:26 PM
pat420swed
pat420swed is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 394
pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Originally Posted by pgg00 View Post
I had this happen on my f350. I had lost a bolt that connected the drive shaft to the transfer case. Another bolt was backed out halfway
I'll take a look at this
 
  #9  
Old 02-20-2016, 04:37 PM
bashby's Avatar
bashby
bashby is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Posts: 7,370
bashby is a name known to allbashby is a name known to allbashby is a name known to allbashby is a name known to allbashby is a name known to allbashby is a name known to all
You need to remove the driveshaft to check ujoints. I just replaced one on mine making the exact noise you are describing. I couldnt feel any play in it either. Dropped the shaft off the rear and one corner was dry and binding badly.
 
  #10  
Old 02-20-2016, 05:05 PM
AKHunter93's Avatar
AKHunter93
AKHunter93 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 763
AKHunter93 has a good reputation on FTE.AKHunter93 has a good reputation on FTE.
Definitely need to drop it to look. Free play isn't the only indicator. Whoever had installed the u-joints before I bought the truck had done something wrong, because there was a cap missing and one was halfway out, and binding up.
 
  #11  
Old 02-21-2016, 08:44 AM
Dieselamour's Avatar
Dieselamour
Dieselamour is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 921
Dieselamour has a good reputation on FTE.Dieselamour has a good reputation on FTE.Dieselamour has a good reputation on FTE.
I agree that the u-joint must be inspected by hand. I have seen many of them incredibly stiff or binding and that was felt when you move them by hand. This especially includes the front cardan/cv joint at the transfercase.
 
  #12  
Old 02-21-2016, 09:40 AM
pat420swed
pat420swed is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 394
pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
ok, I will try al the suggestions you guys havegiven me and I will let you know the outcome.
thanks again
 
  #13  
Old 02-21-2016, 10:49 AM
pat420swed
pat420swed is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 394
pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Looks like the nut on the yoke to diff is loose again... Do I need to put lock tight on it? And does anyone know the Torque specs for it?
 
  #14  
Old 02-21-2016, 11:00 AM
Macrobb's Avatar
Macrobb
Macrobb is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,729
Macrobb is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Originally Posted by pat420swed View Post
Looks like the nut on the yoke to diff is loose again... Do I need to put lock tight on it? And does anyone know the Torque specs for it?
What you are supposed to be doing is when you assemble the diff, you put a crush sleeve in it and then tighten down the yoke nut until you get a certain amount of bearing preload(i.e. resistance to rotation).

More than likely, the crush sleeve has crushed too far at this point, which is why the yoke nut is loose. Eventually, you may want to rebuild the diff, or at least replace the sleeve and shims.

In the mean time, try just tightening it up and see if that helps.
I had the same problem a few weeks ago, and tightened it with a breaker bar, probably to 70ft-lbs or so using the gutentite system. What I found is that while the yoke was tight, it obviously pulled the pinion in a little bit, so there's more slop in the differential when I accelerate or decelerate(clunk-clunk).
I'm going to try to get in there this spring and see if I can re-shim it and take the slop out of things; if it /doesn't/ work, I'll have to replace the two gears(<$300). I will make a topic when I do this, so you all can see what happened.
 
  #15  
Old 02-21-2016, 11:10 AM
pat420swed
pat420swed is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 394
pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.pat420swed is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
So basically I should just tighten it down until it's good and firm, but not crank on it like crazy? And then fix it properly in the spring I'm guessing? Is there a shim or crush sleeve I can get or do I have to get the rebuild kit?
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Clicking from axle or driveshaft at 10-40 km/h vibrations at 50-110km/h


Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service About Us

© 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.