Had a tread separation so had to get some new tires. Seems simple enough but why not go a size bigger for the same $? A little more lift is always better too, right? I have suffered from bigger-tire-itus since getting my license, so might as well embrace it. Note this also applies to motorcycles and hotrods, bigger being wider, steam roller type rubber. Heck I even lifted and put bigger tires on my weber kettle...



some history:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-theory.html


Since this truck is used mainly for hauling and towing, not mall cruising or running around empty, I tried to minimize the overall height. 295/65-20 measure in at 35.4" new, the 37/12.50-20 are only 36.8 so a slight difference, axle goes up only 0.7". Heck the lugs are 0.66" tall themselves. Note these are 12.50 wide not the 13.50 that has been around awhile.

With some trimming these 37s on my wheels (20x9, 0bs) would fit with my 2" lift. I choose to lift the front another 1.5" to balance the look and reduce the amount of trimming. Because I prefer to engineer and build my own stuff, I again modified the suspension to fit my needs. The trac bar and sway bar were at the limit already, so I bought this stuff;

Trac bar and lower lift blocks are from Precision metal fab in AZ. They are nice pieces and powder coated.


Removing the trac bar from the ball joint was a major pain. I modified a fork as shown to fit the ball stud, but it bottomed out. To separate the upper frame mount bolt must be left in and fork run down the bar. Thanks to PMF for Saturday support.



To restore caster the radius arms were again modified by moving the bolt holes. I moved the lower hole only 0.240" forward to add 2 degrees. This is the easy part, not sure why this mod isn't popular.



I put some air in the bags to raise the rear end about 3/4" for now. I may modify my custom lift blocks to raise rear in the future.



This wheel/tire combo doesn't rub the radius arm at all. The only rub I have noticed so far is the back of the passenger side fender flare. Needs some more aggressive testing and some more trimming. Total front lift is 3.5". No need for a 6" lift for 37s, but if that's how you roll then that's cool too.

So although I haven't provided a 'cure' for anything, at least I have new safety tires for the family truck.

 

Nicely done Justin! By the way, I love your truck!

 

That looks very nice. You have a very beautiful rig.


I remember you were having issues with a lack of power in the hills a while ago...wouldn't bigger tires exacerbate the problem?

 

Looks great

 

Looks great Justin!

 

Yes the larger rubber will further degrade pulling uphill. Change in effective gear ratio is -3.9%.


I also have more-power-itus. It has effected every vehicle except this one... There are others here who suffer and their cure is something called 'tune' or 'delete' which I plan on at some time.

 

I like it too... You seem to be spreading bigger tire-itis not curing it though.

 

A very dangerous, slippery slope that you are approaching......
(you'll LOVE it!)

Seems I have suffered the same illness as you.

 

You've got a very sharp truck Justin!


It was cold here this weekend and I got bored, bored led to internet, and that led to a little bigger tire itis for me too..............Unfortunately with the dually it gets hairy. I don't want some no good for towing wide bro-dozer tires and spacers, and that keeps taking me back to American Force Classic 19.5's. And then my wallet cries!

 

Very nice.... Looks like your other vehicle in the garage could use the same upgrade.

 

Had to make decision quick on this tire issue as I had a camping trip scheduled with the wife. So I loaded up the camper with just 20 miles on the new rubber and lift. Handling is about the same as before. Towed our horse trailer with 3 horses, no hills on this route to compare performance. Just set cruise to 65 and rolled down the road.

It's a big beast with the 'box in the bed

 

The extra lift makes the front shock length less than optimal. Only 2" of down travel now, which I deem unacceptable. The Icon shocks are leaking and need seals. So I bought some $20 shock extenders on ebay to buy some time on decision for rebuild or something different/longer. They move lower shock mount up 2" giving me 4" down and 5" up. Bump stops are now at 5.5" from axle so shock will bottom out first which is bad so I will extend bump stops down 1" with a section of pipe. The bump stops compress so an extra 1/2" is added. Judging from the dirt on the shock shaft I doubt I will hit the bumps extended or not. I also adjusted the ABS and vacuum lines for the additional down travel.


The rear shocks are plenty long and can accommodate a few more inches of lift. Unfortunately I bought Ford rear u-bolts that are TTY and shouldn't be re-used, so when I modify rear blocks I will buy new u-bolts.


I'm not a fan of radius arm drop brackets that most all kits come with. I prefer a clean look and no low rider steps. The stock radius arms can't be easily modified past 3.5" of caster correction. Note that at 3.5" of lift the wheel is only 0.2" farther back in the wheel well, and pretty much back to original location after moving the holes.


So there's more details that you care about. I enjoy working on my truck and would rather have a custom lift to fit my needs that I can change and adapt as I wish.

 

Justin......Damn nice rig....!!

My son (Roy Jr) lives / works in chandler. Works for Intel. No Ford...

I'll come to you for advice..... slightly bigger tires for my F-350 Dually. Stock rims....No lift.

 

The options aren't good Roy. BF Goodrich and Cooper both make a 255/80R17, but only offer that size in a mud terrain. I'd be sold on an all terrain in that size. Currently my hunt has me looking at bigger wheels............

 

Bigger wheels........let's say 18"........would cost a million dollars......7 Wheels...