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It's (Vin) Diesel Time

  #106  
Old 04-23-2016, 10:44 AM
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Thanks for the tips! I did try refilling the HPOP res about 10 different times. Everytime the res was full, the engine would start up but then die after about 5 seconds and the res would be empty again. Also, the oil pressure gauge would read 0. The fuel bowl is staying full as well so I'm convinced its oil not being pumped to the HPOP res.

I did check oil level, then actually put in two more quarts after it was full to see if it would do anything with no luck. The wiring is also all hooked up but I dont have any great scan tools available to me. I do have a superchips tuner that came with the truck but it read p1661 and p0603. After changing batteries I believe the p1661 went away ( i forgot ill try reading codes again).

I believe that I found the main culprit however. The gasket kit I bought didnt provide the correct seal for the LPOP cover. Apparetly the stock gasket is an o-ring that somewhat squishes down 100% to fill the groove. The gasket provided is pretty thick and can't squish down all the way, so a gap is left between tbe LPOP and front cover when its fully torqued down. Do you think I can use RTV in the place of the o-ring because I cant find the o-ring for sale anywhere.
 
  #107  
Old 04-23-2016, 12:01 PM
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I would just get a new LPOP and be done with it...they do wear and loose performance as they age.
 
  #108  
Old 04-23-2016, 12:41 PM
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Yeah I was thinking that. It's just too bad they are 120 dollars here and the one I have seems fairly new. I may try some silicon first, then plan on buying the new pump even if the silicon works.
 
  #109  
Old 04-23-2016, 01:10 PM
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suppose you didn't keep the old o-ring, huh? Maybe go to Napa or International and find an o-ring that fits correctly or get a replacement.
 
  #110  
Old 04-23-2016, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Bubba Jones View Post
Yeah I was thinking that. It's just too bad they are 120 dollars here and the one I have seems fairly new. I may try some silicon first, then plan on buying the new pump even if the silicon works.
Ummm......I would rethink that. You are talking about sealing oil that's under pressure. The more important thing to consider, is you don't want silicone working its way loose and making its way up into places where it's not supposed to go.
 
  #111  
Old 04-23-2016, 09:14 PM
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Good news! I got it running!

My dad and I spent most of the day running around town trying to find an o-ring that would fit. The Ford dealership said they don't sell it, it only comes with the pump. The guy there gave me some recommendations to try other places but they are closed on the weekend. I tried a Napa on the North West side of Phoenix on my way back from my friends place this morning, but they didn't have anything there.

I then took off the pump, and brought it to Ace Hardware. They didn't have a big enough o-ring there, and it wouldn't have been something that would have held up long anyways. We then tried O'Reilly's with no luck. We went to two more Napa stores and the last one had an o-ring that was still too small in diameter, but if stretched would fit into the groove. I got it to stop popping out, filled the lube pump with assembly lube and cranked it over twice for 30 seconds.

It now has oil pressure, and the HPOP isn't draining. It still takes a little too long to start up, but I'm pretty sure it's still working air out of the fuel and oil system. Now I get to tackle the clutch, sway bar, and brake light issues!
 
  #112  
Old 04-24-2016, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Bubba Jones View Post
Good news! I got it running!

My dad and I spent most of the day running around town trying to find an o-ring that would fit. The Ford dealership said they don't sell it, it only comes with the pump. The guy there gave me some recommendations to try other places but they are closed on the weekend. I tried a Napa on the North West side of Phoenix on my way back from my friends place this morning, but they didn't have anything there.

I then took off the pump, and brought it to Ace Hardware. They didn't have a big enough o-ring there, and it wouldn't have been something that would have held up long anyways. We then tried O'Reilly's with no luck. We went to two more Napa stores and the last one had an o-ring that was still too small in diameter, but if stretched would fit into the groove. I got it to stop popping out, filled the lube pump with assembly lube and cranked it over twice for 30 seconds.

It now has oil pressure, and the HPOP isn't draining. It still takes a little too long to start up, but I'm pretty sure it's still working air out of the fuel and oil system. Now I get to tackle the clutch, sway bar, and brake light issues!
Awesome! A little persistence pays off!
 
  #113  
Old 04-24-2016, 09:32 AM
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Good to hear! It can take some time to get all the air out of the fuel and HP oil rails. Looking forward to seeing it on the road.
 
  #114  
Old 04-24-2016, 04:45 PM
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I'm trying to take care of some things here and there before I really try to take it into town. I charged the AC so that I have that good to go! Unfortunately, I've got a semi-decent sized oil leak I believe is coming from the HPOP gear cover on the front of the engine. I used the Motorcraft RTV stuff, and the bolts seemed pretty tight so I'm guessing the RTV didn't seal well. I really hope that's all it is for the oil leak... taking more off will be unexciting. It still takes a little while to start up, but it's getting faster.

Also, my voltmeter is reading 0, so either the gauge/sensor for it isn't working properly or some wiring is off. I'm not sure if there is a way I can test charging of the batteries with a multimeter, but if there is I'll try that.

I'll try and tackle the oil leak and volt thing soon and then try to tackle the short in the brake light wiring. After those two things are taken care of, I think I can take it for a drive into town.

The front is sagging more than I thought. I was going to lower the rear instead of put a spacer in the front to compensate, but I think my tires are slightly canting inwards so I should look for some spacers for the front more a more semi-temporary fix. I may get custom coils made some day, but don't know the cost and where to go so it may be better doing a solid axle swap instead (which will have to be a few years down the road.)
 
  #115  
Old 04-24-2016, 07:05 PM
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Getting closer!

How much did the front drop? If you take that amount x.75, that is how much of a spacer you should start with to get the front back up to height. If you find it is too soft, try some 6" or even some heavier 4" springs.
 
  #116  
Old 04-24-2016, 07:34 PM
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Hmm I'd say about 2 inches maybe more. I tried a very quick measurement and it seems like it's roughly .25 to .5 inches more of a drop on the passenger side. Maybe it's just the way it's parked or my driveway may be slanted a little bit. However the back does seem to measure from the bottom of the wheel well lip to tire lip roughly 2" or a little more lower on the front.

With the oil leak, it may be possible it's coming from the water pump bolts as well. I didn't put any sealant on the bolts because I read it wasn't necessary in the instructions, but apparently it may be. Also, I put a decent amount of Motorcraft silicon on the HPOP gear cover, but maybe it wasn't enough.

I'll look around some more and see what I can figure out.
 
  #117  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:56 AM
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When i did my swap i also had 0 for my alternator. Turned out it was a bulb that wasn't twisted in all the way in my dash. One of the bulbs in there is part of the system and if it isn't connected right it your alternator won't charge
 
  #118  
Old 04-25-2016, 11:30 AM
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Hmm well that makes sense. I put all leds in that are not reversible and I dont know which ones may have been put in backwards.. looks like I'll have to do some swapping of the lights.
 
  #119  
Old 04-25-2016, 12:31 PM
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Pull out your instrument cluster


On the backof it make sure every light/ socket is tight. Mine was about 1/16 loose and it was enough not to allow it to charge.
 
  #120  
Old 04-25-2016, 03:14 PM
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Hmm okay I'dd do that for sure. Do you remember which light it was specifically? I ask because the LEDs I put in aren't unidirectional like an incandescent bulb. I had to take some out and reverse them and they worked fine, but I'm not sure exactly which ones may or may not be working.

Right now, I'm waiting for my HPOP gear cover sealant to dry. It was definitely leaking through that, so I pulled it off, tried scraping the silicon off as best I could from the engine cover, and applied The Right Stuff silicon instead of the Motorcraft stuff because that apparently takes 24 hours to be usable while the Right Stuff takes 5 minutes.

Once that's dry, I'm going to pull try the cluster stuff. It's hard to test those bulbs without the engine running because they don't indicate which direction they need to be plugged in.

Edit: Also, I plugged in my 96 Bronco odometer in the F250 cluster. The gauges and tachometer are still the diesel one, but the odometer is from the Bronco gas one. Could this be part of the problem maybe? The odometer is seemingly working how it should, but maybe the wiring is slightly off causing this issue. I know I had an issue like this long ago when I tried swapping in the wrong year tachometer and other gauges, but I kept the odometer the same (meaning the odometer seemed unrelated to the alternator wiring circuit)
 

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