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It's (Vin) Diesel Time

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  #91  
Old 04-07-2016, 10:48 AM
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Looks great! I always just bite the bullet and pay someone to do the ball joints, way too much of a hassle. Your progress is paying off!
 
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  #92  
Old 04-07-2016, 03:15 PM
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Thanks guys! Yeah the ball joints were definitely a pain. Now that I know what I'm doing, they wouldn't be super difficult to do again, but they are not very exciting that's for sure. I managed to get the driver side control arm back on and torqued in place, and I pressed the passenger side joints and put the control arm in place for now. I ran out of grease so I had to run into town to buy more. I also picked up my other tie rod end and returned the loaner ball joint press tools.

why didn't you match the orange on the Powerstroke with THAT red?
I thought about using the paint on the valve covers but wasn't sure if it would hold up. I also didn't have it at the time I painted to valve covers, but I did know I was getting it soon. I painted the covers with some "hi-temp with ceramic" spray can paint that's supposed to hold up to heat/grease/oil well, and didn't think the auto paint would fair as well. I could be wrong though, but oh well!

I managed to get my dash in last night as well! I stayed up after I finished wiring my lab report until about 2:30 swapping wiring harness from the dashes and bolting my dash in place. I still need to hook up some of the leftover wires, but the dash is bolted in at least! I did manage to make a small crack in the top of my dash though, but despite being on the very top, it's not super noticeable. I do have a nice dash pad that I always keep on top as well so I'll thrown that up there too. I need to figure out what is not going to function now though because of the new wiring harness. I know I need to wire in the rear window switch separately, but I'm not quite sure how to go about that just yet. Hopefully it's just the rear window switch and defroster that aren't included in the dash harness. I'd rather not spend too much time wiring other stuff up like rear dome lights/speakers etc but if I have to then I suppose I have no choice.
 
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  #93  
Old 04-10-2016, 03:40 PM
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Looks like you are making good progress
 
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  #94  
Old 04-11-2016, 11:29 PM
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Well the front end is almost all back together now. I need to adjust my sway bar brackets to bolt to the housings I had to alter. The people who installed the lift welded on the sway bar brackets right on the crumple horns where the radiator support had to drop down. So I cut them with a skill saw and metal blade and that took a while. I then had to whack them with a sledge to bend the little tabs that remained downwards so the new radiator support could finally slide into place.

The sway bar connecting brackets that are bolted to the bushing are " [ " shaped so I have to bend down the top lip to fit the new angle of the sway bar brackets welded to the frame. I don't know how bit of a deal slightly moving the sway bar mounting is, so hopefully it isn't too bad.

I got almost all the wiring plugged in as well, I just forgot how the battery cables and starter solenoid/fender relay wiring go. I don't want to accidentally connected wires to the wrong side of that relay, so I posted in the diesel section for some help. Once I get that wiring figured out, I'll bolt in the passenger battery tray and move on to taking down the fuel tank.


I think I'm going to try and get away with using the Bronco fuel sending unit, and just take off the fuel pump from the unit. I'll have to see if the sending unit will need a hose or something put in it's place if the pump is taken out of it. Also, I think I'm going to alter the existing fuel lines I have that I pulled off the donor truck. There is a section of fuel lines that connect to the fuel lines directly attached to the fuel bowl that come down near the oil filter. I'm going to reuse that entire portion and leave it unchanged. In between that is where the fuel selector valve went. There is a section that has some rubber parts, but the ends are permanently attached to some type of connector. I'm probably going to just cut the ends off, and slide the rubber ends onto the fuel lines that connect to the engine fuel lines and use some small fuel line clamps I bought from diesel o-rings.

I hope that will get me through for a while, but I'll definitely be checking for leaks after doing it.
 
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  #95  
Old 04-14-2016, 02:04 AM
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I found out I threw my new throwout bearing away today...... That was a bummer. I just ran down to the nearest parts store that had one in stock so I can get my transmission in tomorrow. Man it sure sucks to realize you just threw away 30+ bucks for no good reason. Also, the USPS lost my package that had the powerstroke emblems in it. It was updated as "delivered at mailbox" for the tracking information, but it wasn't ever in out mail so they must have put it in someone elses box. I went to the post office and they had a picture of the package, so they definitely had it. I was told they'd try and give me a call ealier this week to see what may have happened so I'm still waiting on that. Maybe eBay has shipping insurance or something but I don't know... I think I probably lost another 30-40 bucks here too!

I do think I'm ALMOST officially done SPENDING money for the swap! Of course I'll want more things in the future or relatively soon, but for getting the truck up and running, I think I have everything I need (except the possible driveshaft lengthening/shortening.)

I ended up painting the transmission red but didn't take pictures yet so I'll do that tomorrow before it goes in! I was going to paint the t-case, but I think I may be pulling it down within a few months to reseal it at the least. I never have had any issues with my transfer case, but it looks as if it was leaking near the gear selector lever and possibly on the top of the case as well. It was pretty caked in crud on the front. I didn't get all the stuff off either so I figured I'd just powerwash it and do a fluid flush. Also, the ZF5 and donor t-case (one I'm not using because I don't want to swap t-case tailshafts) had fluid inbetween them. I think I'll deal with that later down the road though....... I can't afford a transmission rebuild for a while if that rear seal is bad. Maybe it was the t-case leaking into that area as well which would be nice on my part since I'm reusing my old t-case. Either way, both that t-case and the ZF5 seem to shift well and turn in the gears well by hand. Once I get the truck up and running, hopefully I won't get any unwanted surprises from this used transmission!



Anyways, I know pictures are what everyone wants (at least that's what I want when I go over threads) so I'll make sure to get some up tomorrow!
 
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  #96  
Old 04-14-2016, 11:54 PM
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Alright, I promised pictures so here are a few. They aren't all that great because I didn't have much time today to do anything. I'll get some better ones tomorrow when I have time. I'm hoping I can manage to get the transmission in tomorrow..... it's going to be more difficult than I had planned weighing about 175 lbs.....














Yes my truck has gotten dirty already! These dang dirt roads just love to put dust up all over even if I'm not driving. I didn't clean the windows yet either from pre paint prep. I'm waiting to do that until I re-clear the top and get the truck driving! Don't mind the canted tires either! Since I had the front end lifted, the tires haven't settled back down in their normal position yet.
 
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  #97  
Old 04-15-2016, 09:27 AM
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Looking good. Little by little, you're getting closer. You'll be glad you went with that style radiator hose. The other style you have to remove changing the serpentine belt since it is routed on the inside, instead of outside.
 
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  #98  
Old 04-15-2016, 06:49 PM
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Man.... I really wish I would have known to cut or hammer flat the firewall lip before trying to install the transmission....

I managed to rig three ratchet straps to slowely pull the transmission up, then use my floor jack to take weight off and adjust the strap positions. It worked pretty dang well, but it was slow.

I bought two long studs to use as guides to slide the transmission in as well. I was about 1/8th an inch from those studs, but I couldn't move the transmission at all. I tried pushing as hard as I could with both feet on the transmission and my back against the tire to no avail. I could tell the top of the bellhousing was hitting the firewall lip, as well as the exhaust tubing. I couldn't get a prybar in there well enough to try and bend the lip either.

So now I'm taking a quick break to pull the transmission down and probably take my AR or a grenade to obliterate that firewall lip so I have the extra 1" I needed. It would have been so easy to take it off just yesterday as well!!!!!

Oh well, at least I know my ratchet strap method works! Maybe I'll patent it.
 
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  #99  
Old 04-18-2016, 06:20 PM
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That engine compartment is looking very good. I guy would never know that it didn't come with a diesel originally!! I'm getting psyched to hear your first road report (with pictures) and your impressions on the swap.
 
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  #100  
Old 04-18-2016, 08:24 PM
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Damn Bubba! I was skeptical when you said you were swapping a diesel in, and living at your folks place. Seen many of this type of grand plan die a fast death. You sir are kicking a$$ and taking names! My hat is off to you. Your work is top notch and I love the way it's turning out. Can't wait to hear about the test drives, and then you enjoying peoples reactions to that beast of a machine you've just built. My swaps are simple compared to what you just pulled off!
 
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  #101  
Old 04-18-2016, 11:03 PM
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That engine compartment is looking very good. I guy would never know that it didn't come with a diesel originally!! I'm getting psyched to hear your first road report (with pictures) and your impressions on the swap.
Thank you! I ended up scratching paint a little in a few places getting the engine in, so I'll just paint pen it or something later on! I also had to bend part of the firewall back to get the transmission in properly as well as the bigger downpipe. That downpipe was preventing me from getting the transmission in in the first place as well! Luckily it wasn't too hard to bend things out of the way and get it all installed. I'm sure that pipe is a big help over what the stock pipe is supposed to be. I'm getting pretty close to starting the engine up so I'm super excited!

Originally Posted by Snowymountainman View Post
Damn Bubba! I was skeptical when you said you were swapping a diesel in, and living at your folks place. Seen many of this type of grand plan die a fast death. You sir are kicking a$$ and taking names! My hat is off to you. Your work is top notch and I love the way it's turning out. Can't wait to hear about the test drives, and then you enjoying peoples reactions to that beast of a machine you've just built. My swaps are simple compared to what you just pulled off!
Haha well thank you! I've wanted this for a long time so I wasn't going to let it fail! Plus, I hate not having my Bronco to drive so I'm trying to get up up and running as quick as I can without taking too many shortcuts!


I was able to get my old transfer case in with the proper linkage. I had to swap one of the linkage arms from the shifter to the t-case so that it could bolt up properly. I also had to extend the transmission mount guide holes on the transmission cross-member because it was about 1/2" off from bolting back up. After extending those holes, the cross-member brackets and shifter linkages bolted up great! I ended up confirming that my front driveshaft needs to be shortened and my rear lengthened. I took some measurements and brought my driveshafts down to a shop here in AZ so hopefully that gets done within the week!

I also managed to pull my fuel tank down today and take out my old sending unit. I pulled the pump off and decided I am going to reuse it without the pump. I just have to find a place that sells the proper stainless steel (or other diesel resistant) tubing so I can attach it to the tubing left on the sending unit. After I get this done, I'll blow out my AC lines, put in my new accumulator and orifice tube, put in some new AC oil and vacuum down the lines. I'll wait to recharge the system until I know the motor is running, but once the AC compressor is bolted on, I can start up the motor!!!
 
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  #102  
Old 04-21-2016, 12:05 PM
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Well I got everything back together except my drive-shafts, sway-bar, rear window wiring and some miscellaneous dash stuff. I tried cranking her over to see what would happen and got nothing!

After searching around for a while, then resting most of the day yesterday (I had a dumb migraine), I found that I forgot to connect three ground wires to the core support. After bolting those in, my glow plug relay kicked in and a few other things seemed to work! However, I still had no cranking whatsoever.

After tons of probing and backtracking both my old harness and the installed one, I found the culprit:



The transmission wiring harness has the starter relay signal wire run through it for some stupid reason. It goes into the harness, then immediately loops back. I'm guessing it was done that way for an automatic transmission if it was in gear or something because it's 100% useless for a manual setup. Anyways, after studying this harness, I noticed the F-250 plug that went in had less wires and wires in different spots. (F-250 plug shown)

I traced what two spots the starter rely signal wire was, found out that the Bronco harness had another wire (grey/yellow) loop through it that wasn't used anymore, and tried to sort out where the t-case wiring is supposed to go.

I couldn't find any information on the wiring for the F-250 engine bay side, so I tried guess based on the perceived color of the wires. The Bronco's t-case wires were bluish and bluish with a black stripe. It appeared that the F-250 plug had those two wires as well, just in a different spot. I believe the transmission reverse light wires both matched up on the Bronco and F-250 harness.

So after hoping I guessed right, I got to work:



I pulled out the transmission harness from the Bronco, ripped off all the flaking wire looms, took out the oxygen sensor wiring that was part of the same harness, and started to take the transmission plug apart.




With the front and back out, I was able to take the wires out of the spots. Then, I matched everything up where I think it should go and wallah!





A new harness! I tried testing it out and the starter now works with the ignition! Unfortunately, I left the stupid ignition on all night so I killed the batteries... I thought I had them charging as well at 2amps but I just had them drain more slowly....

I'll wait to have the batteries charge some, then try and test fire it up. I did try jumping the starter relay a few times last night and it turned over only once then immediately died. I believe since I took out the HPOP, fuel bowl, and fuel lines, there is a LOT of air in the system that will have to be purged before it will start.
 
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Old 04-22-2016, 01:25 PM
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Well some bad news, hopefully nothing too serious.

The engine won't build oil pressure. Before tearing it apart, it would run, it was just that the HPOP reservoir was draining due to having the wrong HPOP on there and missing a valve on the oil cooler.

Now, The HPOP reservoir won't drain if it's sitting, but it drains when it tried to run.

I got the engine turned over a few times, but it only stays running long enough until the HPOP reservoir drains, then it dies. The oil pressure gauge reads 0 pressure as well.

I didn't change out the low pressure oil pump but did reseal it. I don't think I would have messed anything up there but I could be wrong. I DID change the oil cooler whcih I read can have an effect with oil pressure based on the little valve near the oil filter. I changed my oil cooler because it was MISSING that valve, and the one I purchased had it. Maybe it's stuck in some way it's not supposed to be. All I know is the HPOP reservoir is not filling up which is quite frustrating.

I'm going to pick up my driveshafts today and then pick up some more oil for testing. Hopefully it's something somewhat simple I can fix.... I really don't want to pull the motor for this issue....
 
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  #104  
Old 04-22-2016, 09:09 PM
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Damn. I'm assuming you in new engine oil and oil filter of course. Dumb question, but did you fill it up with the correct amount? What happens when you try to "help" it start with a little bit of Brake Parts Cleaner sprayed into the air intake? Do you have all the wiring installed as such that you can connect a scan tool to OBD II and look at ICP volts, ICP psi and IPR duty cycle %?
 
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  #105  
Old 04-23-2016, 07:41 AM
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Since you had the LP pump, cooler/filter and HP pump off, it could take quite a bit to get oil flowing again. Sounds like you filled the HPOP res with oil initially, have you done it again? May have to do it 3-4 times before the LPOP can fill everything and get oil to the HPOP res. You may also have to crack loose the plugs on the oil galley on the tops of the heads to bleed air out. Make sure the fuel bowl is filling. You can prime it as well.

I helped an accociate reseal his oil pick-up, replace the LPOP and a few other things...even priming and bleeding, it took almost an entire day of cranking and charging the batteries to get it to fire off.

Good luck!
 
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