Oh, another thing when I went to set the timing I pulled the little two prog plug next to the dizzy in order to stop the advance and when I pulled it the idle almost went perfect and when I reinstalled it the idle jumped back up again.

The truck runs like it is missing on a cylinder but with new EVERYTHING what could cause this?

 

 

You've adopted the same symptoms through the use of multiple computers....

So, it's something simple; sensor, vac leak, fuel pressure, firing order (needs to match cam), etc. Check fuel pressure, spray ether for vac leak, reconfirm firing order, test tps and map

There was a guy who had these symptoms a while back, after installing gt40s and cam, and he somehow had the wiring harness switched to the wrong sides...his passenger bank was hooked to the drivers side and vice versa.

 

No the motor will only die out if all it's getting through that hole is exhaust gas, this is how you test that the EGR system is intact and has no air leaks.. when it's fully assembled of course.

P.S. A stumble or miss at idle could be a sign that the fuel mixture is lean, but you could also have a bad plug wire or a dirty or under performing injector, and new parts is no guarantee these parts are good.

 

What is your idle speed with the IAC unplugged?

 

DEAD! Wont idle it jumps around and then dies.

I tested the TPS and the idle volts are .90 and then full throttle is 5.01
the fluctuation is perfect between the two no dead spots.
TPS OK!

MAP sensor is showing 5.08 volts from the white and green leads and neither lead is changing when vacuum is applied so I do believe the MAP sensor is bad. I then went to check it one more time and the green lead is stuck on 2.35v with no vacuum and then if vacuum is applied in increments of 5 inch no change in voltage so MAP is toast.

Does this explain all the symptoms I am experiencing? Can this cause a misfire?

 

MAP sensor on these trucks outputs a variable frequency, not a voltage. If you multimeter can measure frequency, you can still test it:

 

[QUOTE=Lead Head;16047173]MAP sensor on these trucks outputs a variable frequency, not a voltage. If you multimeter can measure frequency, you can still test it:

Well you guys have yet again saved me $$. The MAP checks out perfectly according to the Hz they were spot on. (I thought for sure this was gonna be it.)

I do believe the next thing for me to test is the IAC. Good thing its under warranty if it is bad.

Out of curiosity what O2 sensor is supposed to be on the truck?
The exhaust is custom with true duals and a small cross pipe just behind the motor with the o2 sensor in it.

 

I wonder if there may be problems running the O2 sensor in the cross pipe? Try unplugging the O2 sensor and see what happens.

 

I just checked and there was no difference when I unplugged the o2 sensor while truck was running I tried it a few times and didn't get anything.

The truck at one point prior to the cam gear mishap ran just fine with the o2 sensor in place so I am going to over look the placement of the sensor for now.

What should have happened normally when the sensor becomes unplugged? I just always figured a base value would be submitted in its place.

 

Disregard the o2 Sensor for now...it is very rare for it to cause running issues and probably impossible for it to cause yours. If the signal is out of range, or non existent, from the o2....it will just run open loop, and you won't be able to tell a difference in running unless you let it sit for 2 years, then try firing it up under vastly different conditions.

Continue diagnosing, every sensor that checks out is a success story.

 

Here is what I am gonna do tomorrow:
I am going to replace ALL spark plugs again just in case they fouled from our little 24# injector fiasco.
I am going to take my IAC back to the parts store and explain its not working, then I will install another one to be on the safe side.
Then I will get some either and attempt to locate a vacuum leak which I have done before and had no luck but who know right?
I have double checked the firing order for my CAM and the website states its the same as stock so if anyone could verify possibly from experience I have the Crane 444232.
I am then going to test each wire one at a time with a spark tester (not my finger this time lol)

After that I am goint to get a can of gas and a match and see what happens

What else could I be missing guys this is supposed to be my daily driver soon and my wife is plotting my murder while I sleep I know it.

 

When you checked for vacuum leaks, did you spray something flammable (like starting fluid) all around the lower intake and upper intake where the meet, along with where the lower meets the heads?

 

I did but after watching some videos I am gonna pick up some propane and a hose and REALLY make sure I check everything.

I am still betting a bad plug or two from the rich condition earlier. We will see tomorrow.

 

Ok so to start fresh I picked up some Autolite ap3924's and I want a good base number to gap them. What is recomended for my setup?