In the process of replacing the water pump and doing a system flush, I noticed the galley area has a nice puddle of fuel laying in it. With the truck running I noticed the seam on the fuel pump (diaphragm area) has fuel kinda bubbling out of it. So it looks like I'll be replacing it pretty soon. While I'm in there, is there any other areas I should pay close attention to regarding the fuel system? It idles a little rough occassionally, could this be the reason for it? Is there a preferred brand of pump I should buy?

 

It has been reported here that all the pumps are made by one company, and rebranded. While you have things apart, I'd replace the hoses going to the fuel bowl.

 

Okay, I wasn't sure. I have had good luck with Delphi parts on my IDI, I guess I'll go that route. Yup, I was planning on replacing any and all rubber fuel lines. Also I was reading something about getting a seal kit for the fuel bowl, regulator, and bango fittings. Good idea?

 

Might as well put new orings in the fuel bowl assy as well. It's easy to do.

 

Yeah I'm thinking so, definitely don't like having to do things twice. Looks like it all has to be removed to get the fuel pump out anyway. Any recommendations for sourcing these parts? Thanks again for the replies.

 

RIFFRAFF FORD DIESEL PERFORMANCE PARTS

Riffraff has all you need.

 

Wouldn't hurt to check the turbo intake boots and plenum boots.. If you still have the orange one, I've heard they go bad pretty regularly.

 

Oh that was a very bad website to send me to! My wish list just got longer, the wife is gonna kill me! Yeah I'll have to get a list together of all the pieces and parts I'll need. I want to get all the little quirks straightened out on this truck before I start modding it. I'm also in the process of rebuilding the 6.9 IDI out of my other F250. Of course that one won't be stock either, camshaft, turbo, etc. It might be faster than my PSD, not sure if that's a good thing or not. I was looking at the TS performance 6 position chips on Riff Raff. They seem to have pretty good reviews. Anyone out there running one? I was so used to driving a tired old worn out IDI, the PSD felt like a rocket ship even though it's stock. It will be very interesting to see how they compare after the rebuild and mods to the IDI.

 

It's a bad website for most of us! Quite a few guys run a ts chip, but if you plan on many mods in the future you'd be better off with a hydra chip. No more sending the chip in for reburns, the tunes are emailed to you and you download them onto the chip. You should replace the stock downpipe at the minimum for exhaust, new intake, and gauges if you do a chip too.

See, I'm already spending more of your money! Don't tell your wife...

 

The previous owner swapped out the stock downpipe, and chopped the stock muffler and cat. It's kind of a hack job they did on the exhaust, they scabbed a couple pieces of 3" pipe in place of the muffler and cat. I'd like to put a nice 4" system in place of it, I have heard good things about the Diamond Eye exhaust systems. I looked into them, the prices seem reasonable. I was looking into doing the 6637 intake, seems like a pretty popular mod in the OBS community. I wasn't planning on doing much more than a chip/programmer, intake, maybe a turbo wheel, and exhaust to this truck. Truthfully in stock trim it does the job just fine, but that's no fun. Like most gearheads I can't leave anything alone. First and foremost I want to get some gauges on this thing, and do some cooling upgrades on the transmission; deep pan and a larger auxiliary cooler. I don't see myself doing much more than that, it's a secondary driver but primarily a tow rig for hauling my Bronco to different wheeling places, I also will be hauling a slide in camper in the bed. Air bags for the back are also in the plans. The cool thing about this truck, it's kind of sleeper. It's plain white long and low, looks like something you would expect to see an older couple riding around in. I kinda want to keep it that way.

 

Don't bother with a deep pan. No gain to be had. Just go with something like a trucool 4739 cooler in place of the stocker. They work.

 

Really? I suppose they don't help much for cooling, I do like the idea of the added capacity. I am running a deep pan in my 84 IDI, that truck used to have AC but I deleted it and converted the condenser to an auxilary trans cooler. I don't have a temperature gauge on it yet, but I have only overheated it one time. I got stuck one night when I was snow plowing, got a little pissed off and started really hammering on it (like an idiot) until I got it out. Of course it's a C6, you have to be pretty hard on one for a long period of time to kill it. The funny thing is, I had no idea there was anything wrong, it drove perfectly fine until I got home later that night. I noticed it was puking fluid out of the pump seal in a steady stream. I let it cool down and topped off the fluid, never had an issue since. I guess the biggest thing that sells me on a deep pan is the added capacity, plus they usually have a drain plug and a drilled and tapped location for a temperature sensor. I add a drain plug to every transmission pan I drop, makes future servicing a whole lot cleaner and easier.

 

QUOTE: "I add a drain plug to every transmission pan I drop, makes future servicing a whole lot cleaner and easier."


Me too. It's the best bang for 10 bucks I've ever found. I got a few B&M kits sitting in my future-project drawer right now.

 

I tried one of the "Help" brand drain plug kits with the rubber washers and the hollowed out bolt with the drain plug in the middle. Seemed a little sketchy to me. I'm not sure if I've seen one of the B&M kits before. I drill a 1/2" hole in the bottom, or the side (as close to the bottom as possible) of the pan and weld a grade 8 nut 1/2-20 on the inside of the pan. Just a couple short beads across from each other on the flats of the nut is all it takes. Then I use one of replacement 1/2-20 flanged drain plugs with the nylon washer, works perfect and looks like it came that way from the factory.

 

Along a similar thought...I have a Fumoto oil pan drain valve on my vehicles. Yes, it slows the flow, but there are plenty of other things to check, wiggle, grease and wipe while you wait.

This makes the filter change the messiest task.

On my truck, I use a center punch and let the filter drain. The rag I use to spin off the filter captures any drips.

On my wife's Explorer, the filter is horizontal but I also center punch it to drain it. The rag I use to spin it off contains the remaining oil that may drip.