1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Moser

Best and worst purchase of my life - 1978 f150

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 02-10-2016, 06:13 PM
TheSterling's Avatar
TheSterling
TheSterling is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Best and worst purchase of my life - 1978 f150

I decided to buy this 1978 f150 off Craigslist.

Originally listed for $2400 it was out of my budget... But luckily next time I checked Craigslist later that week the price had been dropped to $1000. I called him up and went to test drive it. Drove alright and decided to go with it. He had a few offers on the truck from guys wanting to part it out, but went with me because I was the only one who wanted to actually do something with it. It came with a new Holley 600 Carb, new aluminum heads, 3" body lift and 8" suspension lift.

I bought it knowing it had several problems and went about starting to fix them.

The rear intake manifold gasket was blown, the shift linkage needed adjustment because it would slip out of park into reverse, and the transmission vacuum shift valve needed fixing.

I went ahead and replaced the intake manifold gasket... And pulled the dizzy. Couldn't get the timing set again. Since I didn't have any experience with timing and couldn't get it done, I sent it to a shop. Turns out the starter was also going out and the tires were from 1995 and dry rotting.

Had a GMC distributer put on it, new wheels, 37" tires and just now found out the Carb has an issue too, probably vacuum related.

Next free time will be spent checking the vacuum hoses and seeing if the Carb needs rebuilding.


Current to-do list:
Inspect Carb for vacuum. (Vacuum could also be messing with trans shift modulator?)
Trans shift switch
Brakes full inspection
Fix loose steering
Camo paint job

To-done list:
New wheels and tires
New distributer, plugs, wires
New starter and starter solenoid
Oil change
New air filter
 
Attached Images   
  #2  
Old 02-10-2016, 06:55 PM
fuzzybob's Avatar
fuzzybob
fuzzybob is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Deer park, Wa.
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
If you've just had the intake mani off squirt a little carb cleaner or starting fluid around the base also around the base of the carb while the engine is running. If the rpm's go up you've found your leak. Look real close at all hoses also the one going to the vac. modulator on the tranny. Hang in there... this is suppose to be fun. Good luck!!!
 
  #3  
Old 02-10-2016, 07:06 PM
winginit's Avatar
winginit
winginit is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: SOUTHBURY CT
Posts: 629
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Don`t give up on it, they are easy to work on, keep picking away at it and it will get better. try to fix it all yourself and do the best job you can. if you have to save money to get good parts the do it !
 
  #4  
Old 02-10-2016, 07:36 PM
77&79F250's Avatar
77&79F250
77&79F250 is offline
Moderator & parts seller
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: S/W Missouri
Posts: 44,997
Received 3,283 Likes on 2,439 Posts
1. Have you joined the Tennessee FTE chapter? Tennessee Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

2. Join up and make friends with any and all folks in your area. If not in your area ask around for a hand doing things like setting the timing ect.. You will learn nothing by just paying the work bill. You need to get your head under the hood and your hands dirty.

3. I know you know this, I am motivating you. Hang in there, we were all not born with a wrench in our hands. And having a helping hand or a at least a guy that knows a little bit about it can lead you down the right road.

All you had to do was a little bit more reading and get the distributor cap rotor tip pointing to the #1 cylinder, BEFORE you pulled the dizzy I bet.

You did the manifold, you can do the rest. Get a cheap paper back Chilton or Hanes manual to start, and also get a actual Ford shop manual on CD to really get into it.

Did the shop tell you the tires were shot and the starter was bad? YOU could of done the starter yourself. Should of told the shop that you will take care of the tires in the parking lot.

Advanced search, read threads, ask questions, read more threads, tons of experienced folks on here.

Adjusting the linkage and replacing the trans vacuum modulator it easy.
 
  #5  
Old 02-10-2016, 08:02 PM
J ballan's Avatar
J ballan
J ballan is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Saskatchewan
Posts: 1,666
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts
Hang in there. I paid $500 for mine and that was $499 too much. Lol. Mine just needed all the brakes, an engine, seat , tires, new lights, steering column, and some major wiring repairs. Good luck. I love my truck now.
 
  #6  
Old 02-10-2016, 08:15 PM
TheSterling's Avatar
TheSterling
TheSterling is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Did the wheels and tires myself. Minus getting the tires mounted lol.

Next project is redoing the brakes!
 
  #7  
Old 02-10-2016, 08:28 PM
Steven@nd's Avatar
Steven@nd
Steven@nd is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 759
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Keep at it! Don't get discouraged, I paid $350 for mine and have a couple grand in parts now... and it's worth every penny each time I turn the key!
 
  #8  
Old 02-10-2016, 10:27 PM
HIO Silver's Avatar
HIO Silver
HIO Silver is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: NorCal
Posts: 20,676
Received 58 Likes on 48 Posts
Be systematic and knock out the basics - get it to start, stop, and run reliably and safely.. no hacking allowed! Do it once and do it right.

Establish baselines for fluids, belts, ignition components, and yes, rebuild the carb regardless of what it looks like because then you know it has been rebuilt with attention to detail.

Looks come last unless you have the luxury to work at it wholistically.

Nice paint is overrated IMO.... dents add character. If the paint is shot... go camo like I did.
 
  #9  
Old 02-10-2016, 11:42 PM
77&79F250's Avatar
77&79F250
77&79F250 is offline
Moderator & parts seller
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: S/W Missouri
Posts: 44,997
Received 3,283 Likes on 2,439 Posts
Front brakes shoes and or new rotors, calipers, flex lines...or rear drums, shoes, rear wheel cylinders. Master cylinder and or power brake booster?

You will need a 4 pt hub socket and a ft lb torque wrench (rentable) no matter what.

Might as well just replace the front wheel bearings and be ready to do a front hub repack during reassembly. Races can be knocked out and back in, but a hyd press is way better IMO.

Figure out what the problem is (weak brakes?) and go from there. Might just need a good bleed job? Or all the parts listed above.

X2 on start, stop, run and steer. And of course shift is in there too.
 
  #10  
Old 02-11-2016, 12:39 AM
TheSterling's Avatar
TheSterling
TheSterling is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 77&79F250
1. Have you joined the Tennessee FTE chapter? Tennessee Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

2. Join up and make friends with any and all folks in your area. If not in your area ask around for a hand doing things like setting the timing ect.. You will learn nothing by just paying the work bill. You need to get your head under the hood and your hands dirty.

3. I know you know this, I am motivating you. Hang in there, we were all not born with a wrench in our hands. And having a helping hand or a at least a guy that knows a little bit about it can lead you down the right road.

All you had to do was a little bit more reading and get the distributor cap rotor tip pointing to the #1 cylinder, BEFORE you pulled the dizzy I bet.

You did the manifold, you can do the rest. Get a cheap paper back Chilton or Hanes manual to start, and also get a actual Ford shop manual on CD to really get into it.

Did the shop tell you the tires were shot and the starter was bad? YOU could of done the starter yourself. Should of told the shop that you will take care of the tires in the parking lot.

Advanced search, read threads, ask questions, read more threads, tons of experienced folks on here.

Adjusting the linkage and replacing the trans vacuum modulator it easy.
Will definitely join the local chapter, thanks! Wheels and tires I did myself. Starter I had them do just because it was already in the shop. Basically what happened is the guy blew the rear intake seal. Rather than fix it, he tuned the Carb to run super rich and messed with some other stuff. I was having trouble getting everything back the way it needed to be so I took it to the shop to get it in basic running condition.

Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Be systematic and knock out the basics - get it to start, stop, and run reliably and safely.. no hacking allowed! Do it once and do it right.

Establish baselines for fluids, belts, ignition components, and yes, rebuild the carb regardless of what it looks like because then you know it has been rebuilt with attention to detail.

Looks come last unless you have the luxury to work at it wholistically.

Nice paint is overrated IMO.... dents add character. If the paint is shot... go camo like I did.
Great advice, what I was planning on doing! Actually thinking of going camo myself. Did you write up a camo guide?
 
  #11  
Old 02-11-2016, 12:47 AM
HIO Silver's Avatar
HIO Silver
HIO Silver is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: NorCal
Posts: 20,676
Received 58 Likes on 48 Posts
No 'how to' on camo....I did however study DoD manuals and German panzer patterns. Use four colors instead of three.... it's more legit. Search for my 'war machine' thread and there will be my 73 4x4.
 
  #12  
Old 02-11-2016, 12:53 AM
TheSterling's Avatar
TheSterling
TheSterling is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by HIO Silver
No 'how to' on camo....I did however study DoD manuals and German panzer patterns. Use four colors instead of three.... it's more legit. Search for my 'war machine' thread and there will be my 73 4x4.
Looks good, that's what I was thinking of doing.

about how long did it take you? Also any paint recommendations and expected total cost?
 
  #13  
Old 02-11-2016, 11:04 AM
HIO Silver's Avatar
HIO Silver
HIO Silver is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: NorCal
Posts: 20,676
Received 58 Likes on 48 Posts
About six cans each of Rustoleum's camo paint series... about $80 and a day of masking and shooting. It'll last about four years...


It's due for a refresh and this time I'll be shooting a flat clear over the camo.
 
  #14  
Old 02-11-2016, 10:05 PM
mountain dewd's Avatar
mountain dewd
mountain dewd is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: O-O-O-Oreilly's
Posts: 2,769
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
If you decide not to go camo, take a look at Tractor Supply's paints. That's the route I am going to go. I am doing a cheap resto too.
 
  #15  
Old 02-12-2016, 05:16 PM
TheSterling's Avatar
TheSterling
TheSterling is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Another thing to add to the fix list: steering is super loose. Feels like I'm driving a boat!
 


Quick Reply: Best and worst purchase of my life - 1978 f150



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:04 AM.