IPR fully closed is 14.8%, fully open is 84.9%. KOEO should be 14.8 until the motor starts to crank.

The fool the ICP trick is common for tuning.

23.8%IPR is high and is common for some tuning, why I asked for it at idle... it should be nearer to 21-22%.. you do have a leak, probably a small one. It will eventually become bigger, weakening whatever is damaged (o-ring) and eventually will probably strand you with a hot no start.

Before you reported only 1450psi, now 3000psi. Could have been the stock program was hiding the issue and why going back to stock to trouble shoot is a good practice.
ICP at 577 at idle is good, that's about .77 IPCV and matches that pressure.

You should be able to get full pressure with truck empty and on heavy throttle.

 

Did some data logging today on the highway. Here is what I saw for ICP & Duty Cycle at @ 80 mph with a 10-15 mph tailwind.

 

same strech of highway on the way home with a 15 mph headwind. 10% higher IPR Duty Cycle to go with the extra foot pressure n the pedal.....

 

It's interesting that your ICP varies so much, while your IPR% is flat. Where my ICP seemed to follow IPR% like a mirror. I don't know what that means.

I was having some really bad surging problems Wednesday coming back from town. Worst I've ever experienced. But it hasn't re-occured, so I haven't been able to get live data on it. I think there is something else going on. I'm going to start carrying my laptop with me, so when it decides to act up again, I can try to capture some data.

This is stressful. I need that thing, and I don't have a lot of money (OK, I don't have any money) for repairs.

 

entering the highway with, not a WOT run but and 3/4 of the way there......

 

It might be because these graphs are only showing 15 seconds worth of data. If I change it to 30 seconds or a minute she flattens out quite a bit or it's the tune & my foot......

 

Your graph of ICP & IPR DC% looks good as well as the data at idle above. But it's always easier to troubleshoot these beasts when set back to stock.

 

I set back to stock before I did those and I've left it there. I'm going into Salem shortly and that may give me some opportunity to get some data. I live in the Oregon Cascade foothills and there just aren't long straight stretches out here. But there are some nice long ones, and some nice hills, on Hwy 22 out of Salem.

I'm just going to start carrying my laptop with me and if it acts up again, I'm going to be trying to record data on anything that I can think might be a problem.

 

I wonder if it's stiction? "I've been noticing some weird, very subtle engine sound changes while driving at highway speeds lately. Something almost like surging, but not. I don't know how to describe it. I might try to make an audio recording next time I take it out so I can explain it."


I had similar type symptoms when I was at work when the outside temp was 10-20 deg F. The first 1/2 hr of engine operation, the truck seemed to surge when I hit part throttle, then would push past it if I took my foot off and then accelerated again. What solved my problem was I changed oil from T5 to T6 synthetic which completely resolved the stiction issue. Not sure if this is your problem, but it was on my 03 F 350.


Good luck and keep us posted

 

I've been running T6 pretty much since I got it at 27k miles, now at 110k. There were a few times I used regular Rotella, but that was in the summer early on. I've never had stiction issues with T6. And our temps have been in the 50's.

I have a couple theories. Once is FICM voltage. It's always been rock solid at 48 volts, but I've never checked it other than at idle while parked. I want to monitor it while driving (and while the surging is occurring), in case it's dropping voltage when the FICM is under load and hot.

The other thing I'm wondering is if I'm getting intermittent bad data to the PCM from either the MAP or MAF sensors, causing the VGT to cycle trying to keep up. My Evolution shows boost and it's always steady, but I don't think it updates fast enough to show if it weren't.

 

Watch the exhaust back pressure as well then, if that voltage fluctuates it could be boost related.

It's best to check the FICM during a cold start. The symptoms will reveal themselves sooner than at operating temps. If the FICM drops below 46 or 47 then record how long it takes to come back up to 47/48 volts.