I bought my 03 last October and installed an Edge Evolution less than two months ago. Since then (and probably before then) I've been getting the P006A, P132B, and P0401, in addition to P1000 which never goes away no matter how many times I clear codes. The only driveability issues I've had is lack of power when the engine isn't fully warm.

A couple weeks ago, I pulled the turbo and the unison ring was totally stuck. So I cleaned it all up, machined a new slot in the UR for the cam, re-installed, and ran the turbo re-learn procedure. While I was at it, I checked the barb on the intake manifold for the MAP sensor tube, and it was in serious need of unplugging.

Since the turbo rebuild, I haven't noticed much difference in performance. The P132A hasn't come back, but the P1000 and P0401 have been consistent, and the P006A just reared it's ugly head again.

My question is, will the symptoms suggested by these codes cause poor fuel mileage?

 

P1000 computer reset code, no worry.

P0401 EGR valve

P006A... are you running an after market air filter?

 

Intake is completely stock.

I am worried about the P1000 because I think my mileage should be better and if the computer is constantly resetting, then it isn't optimizing for my driving style, and therefore, not as efficient as possible.

 

P1000 is all moniters not ran. Try it with the evolution unpluged.
Next your p0401 can cause your low boost.
Look in to fixing that over your p132b

 

I don't have low boost, unless 22lbs is low. It was that way before and after the turbo rebuild, at least according to the Edge Evolution. The reason I did the rebuild is because it has a cyclical hum/vibration, like a fan that is cavitating. Funny how new bearings, journals, and seals didn't make a difference, and freeing-up the unison ring didn't make a noticeable difference either. I'm guessing the turbine needs to be balanced, but that's a subject for another thread.

Mostly all these codes seem like a nuisance, but I wouldn't really know because this is my first diesel so I have no basis for comparison when it comes to performance. That and I also was expecting 15-16mph with mixed city/highway driving under little to no load.

So back to cleaning sensors, is MAF sensor cleaner the way to go? Or is it possible to damage them, the EBP and MAP in particular, by sticking the little red tube in there and blowing them out?

 

Can you explain this with a little more detail, not sure what you did.

 

and 22psi boost is low, it should be able to hit 27-28. Some devises can't read above 22 or go negative once they go above 22.

 

Are you deleted? I have read of posters who had a few PSI loss after they deleted the EGR cooler. I can BARELY hit 26 and have plenty of power.

 

With the unison ring seized and the cam constantly attempting to push and open the vanes, the slot where the cam interfaces the ring developed a 0.020" divot. So instead of paying the stealership $215+tax I found a machinist who cut another slot for $75. I got the idea from these guys:

Fixing Ford Turbo Troubles Early: Diesel Power Engine

At the bottom of the article they show a UR with two slots.

 

Yes deleted. Not sure if the delete made a difference because I didn't have any way to gauge boost beforehand.


And what are the causes of low boost? Bad VGT solenoid? Plugged cat? Bad EBP?

 

the delete removes restriction but increases airflow. Some report a little loss, but not down to 22 that I've read, maybe 26 or so.

Could be a bad solenoid, could be your gauge doesn't respond full scale, see that may times... just stops at 22.

Boost is a combination of MAP, EBP and MAF... normally more effected by EBP and even possibly EGR when functioning. I'd clean all the sensors mentioned, IAT2 as well. If that doesn't fix the issues, maybe solenoid or the unison ring, doesn't take to long if you idle a bunch or live in an area of higher humidity and if you don't drive the truck until fully up to operating temps above 180*. Short trips will kill it to and not exercising the turbo vanes... like tromp the peddle to get it to spin up some high boost.

 

Update:

I cleaned the MAP, MAF, and EBP with MAF cleaner. (The EBP was the only one that looked dirty, and it took gobs of MAF cleaner until I could see a shiny brass-like surface up inside)

The IAT2 got replaced because the top was cracked off just above the hex-body part. (Not sure if that was already broken or if I did it when it broke loose)

I then ran the turbo relearn cycle (with Edge unplugged) and immediately drove 35 miles of mixed hwy/city. This was a week and a half ago and probably 400 miles. Since then I've gotten 3 codes:

P0401 - Not sure what to do about this one.

P2287 - ICP is brand new and I have a pigtail waiting until I need an afternoon of frustration. Any chance a plugged IPR screen would have anything to do with this code?

P0603 - Not sure what to do with this one either.

My idle has gotten noticeably worse in the last week, and so has the bogging when the engine isn't up to full temp. Also mileage hasn't improved either. As far as the maintenance records show only two injectors have ever been replaced. Should I break-down and replace injectors or take it for a diagnostic first?

Btw - Thank you everyone for your help!

 

401 is the EGR deleted code
603 is keep alive memory, batteries disconnected will do it.
2287 is the ICP, could be the pig tail as you mentioned.

did you try running with the ICP unplugged?

 

I guess I could. Not sure what to expect or what that would tell me.

 

It might tell you that you need to replace the pigtail to realize the benefits of a new ICP. If your pigtail is bad, you might still be seeing this in your performance issues. New ICP is of little use if the pigtail is not up to snuff. Unplugging it will for the time being bypass the ICP and allow you to see if you are running any better. It won't harm anyhthing either.