Uh huh. You're also conveniently ignoring there's many more OBS trucks still on the road compared to the older trucks.

The reality is, for most people these EFI systems will give 100,000+ miles of reliable operation without having to touch a single thing. Many people reach 150,000-200,000 miles without any kind of failure at all. Carbs need tuneup & adjustment frequently, perform worse at altitude, and offer poorer cold weather performance.

Nearly all of the issues with these EFI systems can be addressed with simple troubleshooting steps.

 

This thread is insane.I think I'm going back to a 1925 Ford Model T Runabout with Pickup Body.

 

True, but that is a testament to age rather than EFI versus carburetion.

Most vehicles went to EFI in the mid 1980s. And most people don't want to drive a vehicle that is over 30 years old.


Uh huh. You're also conveniently ignoring that this changes once these vehicles reach 150,000+ miles and 20+ years old - like the 1987 - 1996 F-Series trucks. All of those expensive sensors begin to fail and all of that extra wiring gets old and brittle and becomes a liability. Carburetors require less parts and has less going on than any EFI system.

One only has to look at the threads in the forums I referenced earlier to see that.


More tune-ups and adjustments than EFI? Yes. But certainly not "frequently."


For *optimum* performance, it is true that a jet change is necessary to match EFI at different altitudes. But a jet change doesn't take long, and can be done with a screwdriver. If you are driving up and down a mountain every single day, I suppose it would be better to have a vehicle with EFI.


False. I already went through all this. That is *only* true if a carbureted vehicle is run without a working choke and a thermostatic air cleaner!

The lack of these two items hurt cold weather performance when you are using a carburetor. A carburetor needs a heat source to perform as well as EFI. Unfortunately, so many people today with carbureted vehicles are running around without a choke and are using an aftermarket racing style open-element air cleaner - and then reaching the same FALSE conclusions as you are.

 

Finally, some objective, factual responses (thank you Mudsport and Lariat) We all have opinions and I am happy to listen to everyone's. To clarify my goal (at the risk of being written off once and for all as a complete goof ball), I specifically want to build the simplest vehicle practical from readily available parts which does not rely on electronics (i.e. EMP proof). Lariat's observations regarding 20+ year old computers, wiring, etc, are equally valid, in my mind. I am willing to give up the convenience, automation and efficiency of fuel injection for the simplicity and dependability of a carburetor. Having said that, the ideal carb for my application would be as simple and efficient as possible. From my research, as is usually the case, the 70's-80's OEM carb, intake, and exhaust manifolds left a lot to be desired. I recently ran across a deal on an Offenhauser intake for a 4-barrel, but I'm thinking a 2-barrel would suffice. Any suggestions would be appreciated. By the way, I'm in Lower Alabama, two miles from the Gulf of Mexico where it rarely freezes and you have to drive at least 100 miles to get 200' above sea level.

 

The Autolite 2100 or 2150 is probably what you want, they are a great carb.

 

I agree with Tedster. The best 2-barrel carburetor ever made is an Autolite 2100. These carburetors are very simple, and extremely efficient.

Thanks to the annular discharge boosters and the thermostatic "hot air" choke found on the Autolite 2100/Motorcraft 2150 and the Autolite 4100, these carburetors are as close as you can get to fuel injection.

Top it off with a late 1970s or early 1980s thermostatic air cleaner (these regulate the temperature of the incoming air supply for better fuel atomization under ALL weather conditions, PLUS eliminates the need for seasonal carburetor adjustments and/or jet changes.) and you will find very little difference (if any at all) in driveability between it and EFI.

 

Quote - I specifically want to build the simplest vehicle practical from readily available parts which does not rely on electronics (i.e. EMP proof)

Nothing to do with a gas engine is EMP proof. Carb or EFI. All rely on some sort of electrical / electronic items to run. It could be argued that with a point dist and a GENERATOR (NOT a alternator) you would have no IC circuits. However you still have electrical circuits even with that old tech that can be easily overloaded by a EMP pulse.

It is not just "electronics" that are bothered by EMP pulses, but ALL electrical items/circuits.

Only a mechanical injected diesel with a mechanical cable fuel shutoff and a mechanical lift pump along with a older Allison MT30-42 series Automatic or a manual transmission (to roll/push start) is EMP proof.

Now if a unlimited budget is in mind, shielding/hardening of electrical circuits is a possibility, but the testing to prove it works in simulated EMP conditions is out of most peoples budgets.

 

Go grab yourself some steam engines guys. No wait.Pedal power! That's where it's at!



Did I show you guys,my new 750? Oh baby.

 

So it would seem. Hate to perpetuate this but.......

Are we talking about a bug out vehicle here?

 

I'm working on a 87f150 with 302 I'm wanting a 347 and around 450 HP I'm wanting a carb setup I can do all that I'm just not sure what will have to be done to the trans?Will it still work if I go carb setup or a sniper setup?

 

maybe........but also just a basic, rudimentary workhorse with the least number of potential failure points.

With respect to EMP, it is my understanding that solid state electronics that operate in milivolts are much, much more susceptible to the effects of EMP than older basic electrical components (starter, distributor, etc) and it would be pretty cheap to keep spares electrical components that are susceptible in a Faraday cage to get back up and running after such an event.

 

For an OBS/Bricknose/Bullnose B.O.V. (Bug Out Vehicle), either have a mechanical injection diesel installed or put a PCM and Distributor in a metal garbage can (small one). Maybe a TFI if it's mounted externally to the dizzy. Those are the only three components that might not survive an EMP event.

It might be a good idea to keep a generator with a battery charger on top of it covered by a metal garbage can. You may need to charge the battery if you don't drive your BOV very often.

BTW, pay no attention to that small metal garbage can on my back patio.

 

Interesting. How would the DuraSpark II ignition module hold up to an EMP event?

 

Any device that has SSI or LSI (small scale integrated, Large scale integrated) chips on a circuit board won't survive a big EMP. Keep a spare protected at all times. A device that uses discrete components, such as T03 style transistors, plain old resistors and capacitors has a higher survivability quotient.

If you know a current or former Army vehicle mechanic, ask how they harden an Armored Personnel Vehicle for survivability. Lots of shielding going on in those vehicles.

(pay no attention to that grounding strap from the garbage can to the hose bib)

 

What does the DuraSpark module have inside? (It's a pretty old system, so I don't know.)