Thanks for the link dman, that was a nice write up. Really thinking of this more and more now.
I love the EFI setup, wish I had 3D mapping control over it.
I have been playing around with the settings a lot lately. I learned that the different fuel mappings are leaner for more aggressive cams, for example I have the choice for Stock cam, mild or performance. I think mild setting (leaner than stock cam setting) is working better with my stock cam than the stock setting as it leaned the fuel table out a little bit.
Will run a little while and do a plug check. Seems good though.


It was a coin flip really between the Holley and the MSD. In the end, I got all the MSD stuff on sale which probably saved me $600. I bought the Atomic EFI LS version for my LS3 C10 build as well ..


Thanks for that. I thought that's how it went but wasn't sure.


I pulled the old booster, master, and combination valve yesterday. Going to try to get it all back together this weekend. Need to pick up some new replacement hardware then see how my flaring skills work out. Also picked up one of those prop valve bleeder tools so I won't wonder why no fluid comes out of the front brake bleeders this time.

 

Anyone using Bilstein shocks on their lowered F100?
Any part numbers? I have searched high and low for the Bilstein 4600 shock compressed and extended lengths and as far as I can tell, they don't list them.
I can easily do a search for stock height replacements, but those probably won't work.


I can use a different shock of course (I can find most shock manufactures compressed and extended lengths), just heard folks liked the Bilsteins.

 

Are you talking about a bleeder tool for holding out the Metering Valve pin at the front of the valve or, the tool that keeps the Pressure Differential Valve spool from shifting and tripping the brake warning light?

I have the pressure differential valve lock tool. I got it from Muscle Car Research.com. It keeps the PDV spool from shifting and tripping the warning light while you're bleeding the brakes out.





When you're done bleeding the brakes, you just remove the valve lock tool and screw the switch back in.

 

Yep, the PDV tool.
Hope that's the only tool I need.
I had a left over combination valve I got form a CPP setup, figured I'd just use it here. The warning light sensor only has one wire though.

 

The valve you have is a reproduction of the Weatherhead valve that was for GM vehicles.

If you don't have them, I would suggest a set of Speed Bleeders at all four wheels too. This will greatly cut down on the time it takes to bleed the brakes out.

 

Yes.. the LBB has Bilsteins but they're Bilstein HDs... I recall posting the PNs in my build thread some where in the page 40s. With drop beams, there is no need to spec the extended or compressed length since there is no difference in travel at the I-beam. All that changed is the horizontal center line of the spindle relative to the horizontal centerline of the I-beam.


In back, the LBB is equipped with a Fatman Fab axle flip system and shock adapter brackets. The shocks provided by Fatman are Monroe Gas Magnums. Dimensioned sketches of the brackets are again provided in its build thread.

 

I did pick up some speed bleeders but they are really a secondary bleed method. I have a motive power/pressure bleeder that is kick butt.


Do I just tie the two OEM wires together and splice it into the single wire on combination valve?
OEM is one wire for test with ignition on and other for real pressure loss when in run position? Guessing here..

 

Thanks HIO.
I have one inch drop springs in front as well and just like to measure it out anyway, but you are right, a stocker should work.


For the rears, I knew you had the Fatman brackets so your shocks you use won't work for me, I don't think..

 

On the Fords, '67 was the first year for the PDV and the brake warning light on the dash. '67s only had one wire switches on the valve. From '68-up, the switch went to a two wire circuit. One branch went back to a Prove Out circuit on the ignition switch.

With the ignition in the "start" position, the brake warning light would momentarily light up until the key was moved to the "run" position. This was to let the driver know the brake warning bulb was good and that the PDV spool was centered. If the warning light says on after the key moves to the run position, you know that something has gone wrong.

This is a diagram of the two wire brake warning circuit.



As you said, you'll have to tie the two wires together and run them to the single wire connector at the valve switch.

 

Fantastic info there, thanks.
PO never connected the wiring back up when he changed the combination valve to a 76' F150 setup. Hope it's all still functional.

 

You're right... The shock would hit the rear axle with an axle flip unless the upper mounts were moved forward to decrease the angle (the shock would become more horizontal).

 

Maybe that's a super large shock body issue or something. My shocks come no where near hitting the axle tube on stock mounts with an axle flip. I may call Bilstein and see if I can just get a spec sheet on their shocks. Bilstein HD = 4600 series BTW.

 

Ah.. okay. I refer to them as HD.... then there is the Sport series.


I've also got Bilsteins HDs in my SuperCrew and Pontiac. My 81 Jetta (slated to receive a VR6) wears a BTS-172 system... darn near need a kidney belt with that car. Those shocks, springs, and Yokohama A-008Rs had her stickin' to the road like gorilla snot.


Here is a shot of the A008R. See how the outer 1/3 of the tread is basically a dimpled slick? The "R" means the rubber is a racing compound.

 

I think that was Area351.

 

Wow, engine looks great! Does that system have O2 sensors? I'm still kicking around which system I'll use on my 351W in my 67.