Truck in shop, need recommendations for best replacement parts
#1
Truck in shop, need recommendations for best replacement parts
I have a 2003 Excursion with 150,000 miles. I daily drive it, and use it in the summer for towing my 30' camper. I've noticed over the last few months a drop in coolant, so I brought it in to be looked at by a shop I trust.
My shop tells me after pressure testing the radiator system, I need a water pump and thermostat housing. They say I also have a leaky power steering pump, and should be replaced.
After looking at RiffRaff, I don't see he sells a 205 thermostat, is that not the recommended thing to do anymore?
Also, I see Clay's got a cool billet aluminum thermostat housing I will be ordering. Is OEM water pump the way to go, or is there a better substitution? I like the idea of the IH water pump with filter, but looks like most people say it is not worth the extra hassle. Thoughts?
While I'm having the water pump done, I will be having them put in ELC, and do a flush first.
Anything else I should have them do while in there?
My shop tells me after pressure testing the radiator system, I need a water pump and thermostat housing. They say I also have a leaky power steering pump, and should be replaced.
After looking at RiffRaff, I don't see he sells a 205 thermostat, is that not the recommended thing to do anymore?
Also, I see Clay's got a cool billet aluminum thermostat housing I will be ordering. Is OEM water pump the way to go, or is there a better substitution? I like the idea of the IH water pump with filter, but looks like most people say it is not worth the extra hassle. Thoughts?
While I'm having the water pump done, I will be having them put in ELC, and do a flush first.
Anything else I should have them do while in there?
#2
I personally recommend not going 205 with the thermostat. This allows the Engine Oil Temperature to go higher, and our HPOP is enough torture on the oil without cookin' it. While a warmer engine helps the combustion cycle, think of it as setting your Buck$Zooka ammo ablaze in the process.
I have heard of no upgraded coolant pumps or power steering pumps, but others may have. Out of the number of times I have had to purge my coolant, I have never seen anything in there that compels me to filter the coolant.
That billet thermostat housing is a real win - my vote is to go for it.
How are your hoses? How is your radiator - does it need a cleaning? Is your transmission fluid routed through the cooler in the radiator? This is helpful to your transmission.
I have heard of no upgraded coolant pumps or power steering pumps, but others may have. Out of the number of times I have had to purge my coolant, I have never seen anything in there that compels me to filter the coolant.
That billet thermostat housing is a real win - my vote is to go for it.
How are your hoses? How is your radiator - does it need a cleaning? Is your transmission fluid routed through the cooler in the radiator? This is helpful to your transmission.
#3
192/5 thermostat over the 205 is a personal choice that there are many arguments for on either side that both have valid points. I bought a 205 thermostat with the IH water pump when I bought the kit from DieselSite and have not noticed any difference in performance or the way the truck runs. I will probably swap in a 192 degree thermostat in the summer when I do a bit more maintenance to the truck.
Billet housing like Rich said is a winner. Although, I did have some trouble getting a proper seal around the pump housing/thermostat/billet housing and ended up putting a thin film of gasket maker on the pump face. Once I re-secured the billet housing to the face with the gasket film, I have had no problems with leaking.
In regards to OEM vs aftermarket vs IH water pumps. I decided to go with the higher priced IH pump because I liked the attached filter feature and did not mind spending a bit extra for the cast iron pump used by IH with a filter.
Thinking about it now I am happy with my choice but if I had not gone with the IH version I would go with OEM. It seems that with these trucks the OEM part was generally pretty good and the knock off is to be stayed away from. That is not always true (Dorman up-pipes), but for most of the parts you should stick with IH or OEM.
Rotella ELC concentrate can be bought at Tractor Supply for cheap if you have one near you.
Billet housing like Rich said is a winner. Although, I did have some trouble getting a proper seal around the pump housing/thermostat/billet housing and ended up putting a thin film of gasket maker on the pump face. Once I re-secured the billet housing to the face with the gasket film, I have had no problems with leaking.
In regards to OEM vs aftermarket vs IH water pumps. I decided to go with the higher priced IH pump because I liked the attached filter feature and did not mind spending a bit extra for the cast iron pump used by IH with a filter.
Thinking about it now I am happy with my choice but if I had not gone with the IH version I would go with OEM. It seems that with these trucks the OEM part was generally pretty good and the knock off is to be stayed away from. That is not always true (Dorman up-pipes), but for most of the parts you should stick with IH or OEM.
Rotella ELC concentrate can be bought at Tractor Supply for cheap if you have one near you.
#5
I would do the hoses just to be on the safe side. Consider the dual alternator hose while you are in there.
Consider replacing the pipe at the bottom of the pump too. It gets nasty. Make sure that the lower hose and water pump pipe match.
Consider inspecting and cleaning the EBP sensor and tube. It will be easier with the fan out of the way.
I prefer the OEM spring clamps for the hoses. It seems like the worm type require periodic tightening - usually when it's too cold to be crawling around under the truck tightening hose clamps....
Consider replacing the pipe at the bottom of the pump too. It gets nasty. Make sure that the lower hose and water pump pipe match.
Consider inspecting and cleaning the EBP sensor and tube. It will be easier with the fan out of the way.
I prefer the OEM spring clamps for the hoses. It seems like the worm type require periodic tightening - usually when it's too cold to be crawling around under the truck tightening hose clamps....
#6
Good call on ALL Hoses. "I would probably do the Radiator as well and a Coolant Filter".
Ford uses a 195* Thermostat and International uses the 203* Emissions requirements on Internationals End. Regulations man..
I have the 203* in mine personal trucks and have never seen them at 203* More like 195*
As for the Oil Temperature. If you're seeing anything above average (220-235) on a hot day hauling, you have an oil cooler problem and not a Thermostat Problem.
How often does someone change the Thermostat? Me, every five years. But, the cost for the Ford or IH Cover over time in minimal. And, using either, the Billet or Stock, you use a thin bead of RTV. I'm not knocking the product, just had to seal some for people who purchased. Pretty heavy duty.
Power steering pump. Give consideration to a Saginaw and new Hoses. I use Borgeson with good results.
For some reason, the Excursions seem to be harder on PS Pumps and Radiators. Just something to think about.
Ford uses a 195* Thermostat and International uses the 203* Emissions requirements on Internationals End. Regulations man..
I have the 203* in mine personal trucks and have never seen them at 203* More like 195*
As for the Oil Temperature. If you're seeing anything above average (220-235) on a hot day hauling, you have an oil cooler problem and not a Thermostat Problem.
How often does someone change the Thermostat? Me, every five years. But, the cost for the Ford or IH Cover over time in minimal. And, using either, the Billet or Stock, you use a thin bead of RTV. I'm not knocking the product, just had to seal some for people who purchased. Pretty heavy duty.
Power steering pump. Give consideration to a Saginaw and new Hoses. I use Borgeson with good results.
For some reason, the Excursions seem to be harder on PS Pumps and Radiators. Just something to think about.
#7
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#9
1) Only OEM water pump TRUST ME!
2) Aluminum thermostat housing
3) Thermostat (the one under 200)
4) All new hoses (get top hose that goes around belt. Get quality hoses not cheap ones)
5) Check for cavitation when water pump is removed. If it exist convert to ELC. (Either way spray block plugs a bunch of times with PB, even if you do not flush block, which you should do even if you don't convert, they need it a couple times each year. They will come out easy if you ever have to remove them. Use pipe dope rated for every liquid when reinstalling)
2) Aluminum thermostat housing
3) Thermostat (the one under 200)
4) All new hoses (get top hose that goes around belt. Get quality hoses not cheap ones)
5) Check for cavitation when water pump is removed. If it exist convert to ELC. (Either way spray block plugs a bunch of times with PB, even if you do not flush block, which you should do even if you don't convert, they need it a couple times each year. They will come out easy if you ever have to remove them. Use pipe dope rated for every liquid when reinstalling)
#10
Some input as it applies to the T-stat. It is a rule that for every 10* you drop the coolant the Crown or piston temps go down roughly 100*. With that said now. I know its part of the combustion yada yada yada. But on the other side look at the failure rate on pistons , rings, thermal cracking in the hole on top and such. Do you want to subject them to more heat and stress? I know heat helps burn but it also puts alot of stress on things. In areas we all know are subject to problems to begin with. Me I'll let that few drops of fuel per 100 miles go for cooler pistons and HPOP.
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