Thanks for posting the pics. I haven't seen a Mercury horn button before. It must be a good feeling to have it out of the weather! It is in good hands now.

 

Chevy or GMC wheels, and probably complete rear axle. The wheels look to have more offset than stock tonner wheels, and the hub caps look to me to be from a later 48-52 Merc tonner. If I'm right the wheels are K-H Canada #29320 having 1 7/16" of positive offset. They have a 17" x 5" K-H / Firestone "AR" three piece outer rim, diagram below. The center hole on Chevy/GMC wheels is 4 5/8", smaller than Ford's 4 7/8", which is why I think the whole axle was swapped. The hub cap clip circle is 9.15", while that Merc hub cap is probably designed for an 8.844" innie nub circle.

Sure is a nice truck. Stu

 

Got a little time today to clean up a few things, got the seat out and gas tank.
wire wheeled the floors, some rust but not bad.
Also found some eye glasses.

 

And now a few questions:
How do you remove the window crank handle?
What is the board behind the seat back for? it tilt forward and back.
And i took a picture of the rear end, are we still thinking it a chevy diff.
rim center hole is 4.5 and outer circle is approx 9.5 inches.

Thanks for all your help.
Dennis

 

The full floating hub sticks out farther than a ford. Then there is the 3 piece wheel. Always liked the square sectioned round ring that made up the 3rd part on a chevy wheel. Easy to pry out.

 

The smaller diameter of the hub alone says it is a GM axle. Your tape measure might say 4.5", the factory said the wheel "center bore" is 4.625". Not sure what your 9.5" circle is. If it's the measure from outside of hub cab clip across to the other outer clip, that probably just shows the difference between the clip mounting holes and outer edges of the clips.

Good eye, Gary. You can see that the WMS-WMS is greater on the axle by the way the rear wheel protrudes out toward the fender opening. That despite the deeper dish of the GM wheel than the standard tonner Budd wheel. The AR rim is a better design than some, but you're SOL if you break that small ring. Stu

 

To answer your other questions:
You have to hold back the piece behind the window crank and knock out a pin. Same for the door handles.
The board is how they used to adjust the seat back for "comfort".

 

Thanks for the help.
I am not new to playing around with old cars, But never had a older truck.
Always better to ask how to remove something then to break it trying.

 

The ferrule around the window crank is spring loaded and the pin is pretty hard to see. I have never had an easy time getting them in or out. Been tempted to drill and tap the square shaft endwise and use an oval head screw through the handle's face.......

 

Well made a bit more progress this weekend, got the wood removed from the box, removed rear fenders and started some rust repair.

 

Just removed mine last month, pried the cone part towards the door and inserted a small punch on the pin, they pushed right our. Would be easier with a third hand

 

let me first say, I love your truck! But what is that thing on the passenger side firewall where the heater would go?

 

It is the heater, here are some better pictures. I just removed it and tore it a-parts. going to try and find a new heater core and rebuild it.
Any one know what the factory color was on these heaters and were to find a 12v motor replacement.
Thanks

 

Mercurys must have different heaters than ford's do, the one I'm my truck looks nothing like that.

To answer your questions macs auto parts may have it, they seem to have alot of parts for these trucks.

 

Went to the lethbridge swap meet today and found these.
Cab and 1/2 ton Mercury box with tailgate $400
heater core $5.
Cab is in really good shape and the floors are mint.
Box is dented but solid, and has the fenders.
I might not need to cut up the toner box now.
It's a good day.