'72 390 FE no spark from cap to plugs or low spark
#1
'72 390 FE no spark from cap to plugs or low spark
Can anyone help me with this?
I recently replaced my points and condenser with a Crane Cams XR-i conversion kit. I also replaced the plugs, wires, coil, cap & rotor. Initialy I got everything in and cranked her up and she ran, I didnt adjust the timing with a light but got her to idle pretty smooth. I took her for a test run around the block and she had a little more jump and shifted a little tighter (3 speed auto). I got her home and turned her off and then tried to turn her on again and thats when she wouldnt crank over. I checked for spark to #1 from the cap, no spark, I checked for spark from the coil to cap and got it to spark but intermittently. I called Crane and they said if I have spark at the coil then the module is working.
Can anyone help me out with this? Was hoping to go shooting and need my truck to haul the targets
I recently replaced my points and condenser with a Crane Cams XR-i conversion kit. I also replaced the plugs, wires, coil, cap & rotor. Initialy I got everything in and cranked her up and she ran, I didnt adjust the timing with a light but got her to idle pretty smooth. I took her for a test run around the block and she had a little more jump and shifted a little tighter (3 speed auto). I got her home and turned her off and then tried to turn her on again and thats when she wouldnt crank over. I checked for spark to #1 from the cap, no spark, I checked for spark from the coil to cap and got it to spark but intermittently. I called Crane and they said if I have spark at the coil then the module is working.
Can anyone help me out with this? Was hoping to go shooting and need my truck to haul the targets
#4
Install a jumper wire from B+ to the coil+ and try starting it. It could be the power to the coil. (Fuse?)
Check all your new connections.
I would then focus on that conversion kit.
Make sure there is battery power to it. If it has a fuse check it first.
Considering it WAS running it's got to be simple unless the Crane unit failed which is a possibility.
Most electronics fail immediately if they do. It's called "Infant Mortality".
Check all your new connections.
I would then focus on that conversion kit.
Make sure there is battery power to it. If it has a fuse check it first.
Considering it WAS running it's got to be simple unless the Crane unit failed which is a possibility.
Most electronics fail immediately if they do. It's called "Infant Mortality".
#5
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#8
I used a inline spark tester, it should show rapid blinking correct? When I first did it I did it old school with the phillips, the spark was bluish but i dont recall the length exactly. I was doing it on a painted valve case too so i am sure that didnt help.
#9
Install a jumper wire from B+ to the coil+ and try starting it. It could be the power to the coil. (Fuse?)
Check all your new connections.
I would then focus on that conversion kit.
Make sure there is battery power to it. If it has a fuse check it first.
Considering it WAS running it's got to be simple unless the Crane unit failed which is a possibility.
Most electronics fail immediately if they do. It's called "Infant Mortality".
Check all your new connections.
I would then focus on that conversion kit.
Make sure there is battery power to it. If it has a fuse check it first.
Considering it WAS running it's got to be simple unless the Crane unit failed which is a possibility.
Most electronics fail immediately if they do. It's called "Infant Mortality".
#11
Ok, I got some 12 ga wire, I tried last night but I removed the red wire coming from the firewall. I will try again with everything in place. Thanks for the heads up about disconnecting, I had both ends cranked down, that would have been fun to disconnect. I do also have a kill switch, have a parasitic draw that I plan to tackle next. Can I use the kill switch to turn her off?
#13
#15
The instructions call for the resistance wire to be reapplied. I tested it last night and got 9.5V, so I am going to assume this red wire is my resistance wire, everyone has told me it will be a pink wire but maybe the previous owner changed it trying to solve the parasitic draw problem. When I bought her, he told me he disconnected the neg battery cable at night. After a couple of times of forgeting, I decided to install the kill switch. So do you think I should still do the jumper? I already tried last night but I did it without the resistance (red) wire. I am going to check my coil again to make sure it has spark which, according to Crane, indicates my module is working.