I have found some slop in my steering. There's a lot of free play in these ares I circled red



A- this is called a center link? I was hoping it would have replaceable ball joints, or a replaceable part like a tie rod end. Do I need to purhcase the entire rod? I want to replace the other side as well, and everything with a ball joint.
B-I circeld a broad area- it appears to be the kingpin. Do I need a specifc kinpin part for the I-Beams that were specific to 1965? The specifies it's for an (**edit) axle labeled C5TA-3008 but mine is stamped C5TA-8-B (or ...-A for the driver side I think)
Is there a vendor who specializes that would know years and what parts #s I would need? Maybe ND can help with that

 

First entry (upper pic): C5TZ-3111-C .. King Pin Kit / (Parts catalog defined) Use with axle marked C5TA-3008-A or B (right) or C5TA-3009-A or B (left).

1965 F100/250 2WD / 1965 king pins have the spindle locking pin located in a different place than 1966/72.
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See lower pic: 3304 known as draglink aka center link. You will also need 3A130 (right tie rod end) & 3A131 (left tie rod).

Where in CA are you?

 

That matches the info on rockauto.com. But, what are we calling the axle here? I thought the I-beam is considered the axle, but mine is stamped C5TA-8-B


Are these parts from a different model year or am I looking in the wrong place for the stamp? Should I be looking on the spindle for the number C5TA-3008-A?
I want to be sure I get the right parts first time. I don't think my neighbors are going to be excited about me leaving the truck disassembled on the street for very long.

 

C5TA-8-A is: C5TA-3008-A which is the right (passenger side) I beam aka front axle. Could also be marked C5TA-8-B

C5TA-9-A or B would be C5TA-3009-A or B (left side).

 

Thank you for clarification sir!

 

I removed the spindles and they are going to the machine shop today. I found some o-rings around the bearing and resting on top of the axle. I don't see anything in the diagrams that state o-rings, and there are none in my fix-it kit. Is it possible that those were specific to the last kingpin kit (nylon bushings) and if I don't have them I don't need them? I could see though how they would be helpful in separating the grease from the mud.

 

No O-rings pictured or listed in contents of C5TZ-3111-C 1965 King Pin Kit.

 

Were the bushings in the spindle of a spiral type. Kaiser made kingpin kits with spiral bushings you install by twisting them in yourself and your all set, no taking them to the machine shop to be fitted. Not sure if they made kits for kingpins as small as an F-100.

I maintained a fleet of F-600 an F-700's that had kingpins with large rubber donuts on top and bottom of the pin to keep weather out and grease in. Not a good setup. We converted to Kaiser kits which had upper and lower metal caps held on with screws and sealed with O'rings. We drilled and tapped the spindles for the screws that held the caps on.

 

They weren't spiral type, but they were the nylon kind that don't need to go to the machine shop. It looks like the o-rings were in the top[ groove on the axle bore and on the top inner radius of the bearing.

 

OK, I looked online and seems Kaiser didn't make anything that small. Seems your nylon set up was just standard Ford set up. My 66 F-250 had worn out nylon type when I got it. I replaced with all metal/bronze bushing kit 20 yrs ago and when I rotate my tires, I check the kingpins for wear and hey are as tight as when i put them in.

I want to make a comment to you and all who read this about greasing kingpins. DO NOT grease the kingpins with the wheels off the ground. You need to keep the weight of the truck on the lower axle/bearing/spindle so the grease will have a good chance to go INTO the bearing and move some of the old grease out. If the truck is jacked up, the grease will take the path of lease resistance and come out between the axle and bearing or bearing and spindle and not lube the bearing. This is not just my theory, it was published in one of the many fleet maintenance magazines I subscribed to while working.

 

Makes sense to me, good point! I never liked doing preventative maintenance before, but when you get in and see what can happen to neglected parts you feel an idiot for giving them a tiny bit of attention over the years. The machine shop dude suggested that if the bore in the axle isn't extremely tight around the kingpin that there would still be play in the wheel. There was very slight play, but with the retaining bolt in there is none. I hope between that and some tight shims I will be good. I am installing shims on top of the axle, below the upper spindle bushing. Seems like that is the rubbing area that would lose material. That sound right?

 

Yes on the shims on the top between the upper axle eye and upper spindle bore. Also look at the bearing and see that the shells are one over the other. Put the bearing in place with the larger shell up/inner shell down, this will help prevent water and road dirt from going into the bearing. Looking at the bearing you should see what I mean.

 

Job DONE! Thanks for the help guys