6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

Completed radiator swap, coolant flush, egr cooler replacement, Got a few questions now

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Old 01-18-2016, 11:34 AM
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Completed radiator swap, coolant flush, egr cooler replacement, Got a few questions now

I bought a 2010 F250 FX4 with 48k miles 3 months ago. First thing I did was have a 6" lift installed. I searched forum after forum for advice and tips before I did anything more to the truck. I decided to replace the radiator with a Mishimoto one and while I was in there I replaced both egr coolers, new thermostats, new inter-cooler boots, and a coolant filter kit. I also will be pulling a 6300lb travel trailer. I have no plans on tuning or hot rodding.


My questions are this: I flushed the cooling system, prior to install, with Restore and Restore Plus per the instructions. I also flushed with regular water prior to the distilled water. Followed up with about 25 gallons of distilled water and then filled with coolant accordingly. The coolant I drained was clean. I noted that during all of this, I never drained anything close to what others have posted. Each time the water came out tinted like the color of coolant (and got progressively clearer), but never dirty. Did I do it right? Is it possible to have had a system that clean? Also, the water drained never came out looking like pure clean water, but had a very slight yellow/gold tint to it.

Now, after the radiator swap I am going to install gauges (oil temp, coolant temp, and trans temp). Do I need an EGT gauge? I have seen posts where some people install the coolant temp sensor in the drain block, but this has been on the 6.0. Will the same fitting for that engine fit the 6.4? I reached out to diesel manor, but they did not know if the part for the 6.0 would work on the 6.4. Or, where would be good spot to install the sensor? It will be an electric sender.
 
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:26 PM
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The best way to get the system completely flushed is to run the truck without the t-stats in place. Having a steady clean supply feeding it while you have the 1/2" lines going to the degas bottle off and draining into a bucket. When the water becomes completely clean and clear you are done.

This is harder to do on a 6.4 because the t-stats are harder to get to than a 6.0.

As for gauges, you should just do an Edge CTS or equivalent. Monitors ECT, EOT and Trans in a monitor versus pillar gauges. If you just like the look of the pillar gauges, I understand.

The block of the 6.4 is virtually the same as a 6.0. I don't see why the sensor wouldn't work. (Not 100% on that).

If you are staying stock, an EGT isn't necessary.

My last question is why not delete? Just curious.
 
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:34 PM
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When I did the flush I let the engine run for over an hour each time assuming the tstats opened. Even though the water was never crystal clear, should I be concerned that some remnants of the restore or restore plus may be left? Would it hurt the new coolant?

We dont have emissions where I live yet, but neighboring areas do and I am sure its coming. I also read, not sure how true, that deleting would require some tuning and having to find someone to do it. I just opted to keep it simple.

I actually do prefer the pillar gauge look. I have an SCT Livewire from the truck I traded in (2013 F150 ecoboost) I wonder if it would work on this one?
 
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:36 PM
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get yourself a coolant filter.....theres a lot of debris in the system that only runs thru when the engine is hot. I cut my filter open after a month and found plastic, metal threads, coolant by product chips and flakes, etc.

make sure add the ford coolant additive.
 
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