Heads for a 347
#1
#2
71ranchero500
Hey, you haven't been around for a while. I would say it depends on your budget and definition of decent price.
Do you know the casting number?
If they are original, they would probably be as good as any factory ford head, with some port work done. If you wanna put $700-800 towards some heads, there are better options in the aftermarket, with new and used aftermarket selections. Really depends on what you wanna spend, I have seen some nice heads sell for $500-600 on ebay and different classified sections, recently, especially on the mustang websites. Good luck, later
Hey, you haven't been around for a while. I would say it depends on your budget and definition of decent price.
Do you know the casting number?
If they are original, they would probably be as good as any factory ford head, with some port work done. If you wanna put $700-800 towards some heads, there are better options in the aftermarket, with new and used aftermarket selections. Really depends on what you wanna spend, I have seen some nice heads sell for $500-600 on ebay and different classified sections, recently, especially on the mustang websites. Good luck, later
#3
Hey thanks for the reply yea i haven't had to much time to go on this site latly but it looks like i will be back, while i work on this project. My teacher gave me a flyer for some heads made by "POWER HEADS" they seem to be some nice performance heads and there local for about $675.00 a pair but the stroker kit is gonna take up most my funds, so i was just wondering if i should save up and do it all at once? i just didn't want to have any probs with the factory heads, i can wait tell i take the rebuild class again for the heads as long as the ones i have now will run good enough to get me by. So basically i have until the 18th to figure out if i want to start taking the engine out or just help someone on there project. The thing is im taking my c4 out for a rebuild in the trany class, so what should i do! ?
#4
Check this link out, they have ported heads for $400 or so and they flow nearly the same, claimed, as the power heads. IN either case powerhead or above your getting an E7TE head, the powerheads are cnc machined and the others hand ported, both are claimed to flow similarly, so it really depends on your confidence in the company.
http://www.jlmcylinderheads.com/
I will put it like this, the heads on your car right now, are the same as the 351 heads, 351 D0OE heads are considered to be flow wise, just short of the gt-40 versions but better than the stock E7TE.
The way I see it, if you think it reasonable to come up with $800-1000 for heads in the near future, then wait and get them. If not, then see if your teacher knows of someone if not himself, that can assist you in porting your heads. Some decent priced heads for your 347, aftermarket wise, would be pro top line, world, if you could swing $1300 the afr (cnc aluminum) 165 or 185 would be a great.
Some places to find decent good condition heads, the mustang crowd always wants more, which is good, because they want to move what they have. Follow these links, see if you can find something, go to the classifieds: (there is or was a set of powerheads for sale on the corral link, there is usually a decent set of heads for sale there)
http://www.stangnet.com/
http://www.corral.net/forums/forumdi...hp?forumid=269
http://www.carbdford.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=5
YOur heads being similar to the 351 versions, will work, they put them on the 351 from the factory, but they will provide the same restriction.
I guess whether or not you do it now, depends on your goals with the motor? How much hp and tq are you wanting to get from the 347 shortblock? later
Here is an example:
IN the book "how to build max performance ford v-8 on a budget"
They had a 9.5:1 compression stroker 347 with edelbrock performer rpm heads (they are the same as performer except they don't have emissions drilled).
They made 389 hp at 6500 and 386 tq at 5000.
Then they took a 10.5:1 compression 351w motor with "power heads".
They made 395 hp at 6000 and 383 tq at 5000.
Just a thought
http://www.jlmcylinderheads.com/
I will put it like this, the heads on your car right now, are the same as the 351 heads, 351 D0OE heads are considered to be flow wise, just short of the gt-40 versions but better than the stock E7TE.
The way I see it, if you think it reasonable to come up with $800-1000 for heads in the near future, then wait and get them. If not, then see if your teacher knows of someone if not himself, that can assist you in porting your heads. Some decent priced heads for your 347, aftermarket wise, would be pro top line, world, if you could swing $1300 the afr (cnc aluminum) 165 or 185 would be a great.
Some places to find decent good condition heads, the mustang crowd always wants more, which is good, because they want to move what they have. Follow these links, see if you can find something, go to the classifieds: (there is or was a set of powerheads for sale on the corral link, there is usually a decent set of heads for sale there)
http://www.stangnet.com/
http://www.corral.net/forums/forumdi...hp?forumid=269
http://www.carbdford.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=5
YOur heads being similar to the 351 versions, will work, they put them on the 351 from the factory, but they will provide the same restriction.
I guess whether or not you do it now, depends on your goals with the motor? How much hp and tq are you wanting to get from the 347 shortblock? later
Here is an example:
IN the book "how to build max performance ford v-8 on a budget"
They had a 9.5:1 compression stroker 347 with edelbrock performer rpm heads (they are the same as performer except they don't have emissions drilled).
They made 389 hp at 6500 and 386 tq at 5000.
Then they took a 10.5:1 compression 351w motor with "power heads".
They made 395 hp at 6000 and 383 tq at 5000.
Just a thought
Last edited by jwtaylor; 02-15-2004 at 09:14 AM.
#5
Well, thanks I think I'll stick with my heads now and save up some extra cash for some better heads when I take the advanced engine rebuild class and I'll just throw them on then. I;m getting the stroker kit from this company called powerhouse for $599.00 and that's the cheapest that i have found with the quality that i am looking for i could buy some heads too but then i might not have any cash for gas to run the thing Well thanks for your advice I'll keep you posted on how the projects doing
Thanks again
Thanks again
#6
Yeah powerhouse has some good prices, I have never used them, but have heard positive reponses from those who have.
Are you gonna try to "home" port those heads? I would recommend it.
Here are a few links to look over, while the article isn't specific to your head, the ideas and general suggestions are applicable.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm
http://www.cmc.net/~xero/Mousesporting.html
Yeah let me know how it goes, good luck, later
Are you gonna try to "home" port those heads? I would recommend it.
Here are a few links to look over, while the article isn't specific to your head, the ideas and general suggestions are applicable.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm
http://www.cmc.net/~xero/Mousesporting.html
Yeah let me know how it goes, good luck, later
#7
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#8
Can't blame ya. If you get some extra time though, look over the first link I provided above. You might be suprised at what you can do. You might at least shoot for a 3 angle valve job and try and keep your compression healthy. Higher compression with proper fuel makes for a more fuel efficient and power efficient motor.
Either way good luck, and let me know how that stroker comes along. later
Either way good luck, and let me know how that stroker comes along. later
#10
Well stock bore is 4".
The stroker crank for a 347 is 3.4".
If your block doesn't require a bore, which would be rare, the actual ci would come out to 341.80608 ci. rounded up ~ 342 ci. Thats a standard bore block with a 3.4" stroke.
I think your asking if there is an advantage to boreing the block out X amount overbore, not really. You might gain 10-15 hp somewhere in the rpms.
Everyone bores their block 30 over, a person doesn't have to go that far, unless the bores are in bad shape, the minimal bore possible is best, that way in the future, should you wanna bore it again, you have some room to grow.
Unless you plan on doing another rebuild then I would shoot for .030. Some people have trouble with overheating if it has to go to .040, not everyone though, as all blocks cylinder wall thicknesses are somewhat different due to the casting process, so the end result varies.
LOng story short you don't want your cylinder bore to exceed 4.040", no real advantages one way or the other with different bore sizes.
Good luck, good to hear your one step closer to the 347 being built
The stroker crank for a 347 is 3.4".
If your block doesn't require a bore, which would be rare, the actual ci would come out to 341.80608 ci. rounded up ~ 342 ci. Thats a standard bore block with a 3.4" stroke.
I think your asking if there is an advantage to boreing the block out X amount overbore, not really. You might gain 10-15 hp somewhere in the rpms.
Everyone bores their block 30 over, a person doesn't have to go that far, unless the bores are in bad shape, the minimal bore possible is best, that way in the future, should you wanna bore it again, you have some room to grow.
Unless you plan on doing another rebuild then I would shoot for .030. Some people have trouble with overheating if it has to go to .040, not everyone though, as all blocks cylinder wall thicknesses are somewhat different due to the casting process, so the end result varies.
LOng story short you don't want your cylinder bore to exceed 4.040", no real advantages one way or the other with different bore sizes.
Good luck, good to hear your one step closer to the 347 being built
#11
Ahh thanks for the quick answer yea I was just wondering if there was any advantage, but that's good I'm not planing on going anymore than 30. I had the motor rebuilt about under 5000 miles ago I don't know what they did, with the block since it was about 4 years ago. I just have to find out when I start taking it apart and see what they did to it since it was about..... 4 years ago when it was rebuild
Thanks for your reply again Monday I'm going to be pulling the engine and the trany (for my trany class) since it was raining last Wednesday i wasn't able to
Thanks for your reply again Monday I'm going to be pulling the engine and the trany (for my trany class) since it was raining last Wednesday i wasn't able to
#12
I would say unless you have been abusing the motor... ... you should be fine and not require an overbore of anykind, 5000 miles isn't a lot, that thing is barely broken in, haha.
Good to hear your ready to rebuild the tranny as well, sounds like your making progress. If you think about it, keep us updated on whats going on. Have fun, later
Good to hear your ready to rebuild the tranny as well, sounds like your making progress. If you think about it, keep us updated on whats going on. Have fun, later