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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

1994 5.0 V8 F150 Issues

 
  #16  
Old 01-17-2016, 08:36 PM
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If you have a bad PIP sensor then it may be better to buy a "NEW" distributor.
I say new because most rebuilt distributor have bad PIP sensors in them as they do not replace the stator when the rebuild them.

Without a timing light some do mark the base of the distributor to the block. I have never done it as I have always had a timing light. I think I have about 4 or 5 of them in my collection right now.
But I think you can rent a timing light at most auto part stores and get all your money back when you bring it back.
 
  #17  
Old 01-18-2016, 12:23 PM
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Even though today is MLK day, I received my scanner in mail. I'm at work now. When I get home I will pull the codes and get to work.

Subford, I will let you know what I find out. Thanks for all your help.
 
  #18  
Old 01-18-2016, 04:06 PM
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Checked for codes
----------
111 all ok
10 stored codes switch
118: engine coolant sensor above max voltage
122: throttle postion sensor below min voltage
211: profile ignition pickup circuit failure
212: loss of ignition diagnostic monitor signal, spout circuit grounded
332: insufficient egr flow detected

You are damn good subford. Right on the money. I am going to attempt to change the sensor tonight. Thanks for all your help.
----
Last question: with these codes should i do anything else. The 118 code, my temp gauge doesn't work
 
  #19  
Old 01-18-2016, 04:36 PM
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Says you have a bad PIP sensor (211).
You also have the wrong color ICM, it should black and you have the gray one (212).

You may also have other problem (TPS) open wire (122) and the EGR not opening (332), vacuum line broken?
 
  #20  
Old 01-18-2016, 04:44 PM
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I will check the icm color when I get home. Will look for broken vacuum. What is the best way to find the leak?
 
  #21  
Old 01-18-2016, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MKLC View Post
I will check the icm color when I get home. Will look for broken vacuum. What is the best way to find the leak?
If the vacuum lines are broken they are easy to spot. But could also be a rusted out vacuum can on the passenger fender under the hood.
A hand held vacuum pump is also very useful to find out if you have a vacuum problem or a stuck EGR valve, bad EGR solenoid and so on.
 
  #22  
Old 01-18-2016, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by subford View Post
Says you have a bad PIP sensor (211).
I tried to pull the distributor out and change the sensor. I could not get the gear off for the life of me. I went a purchased a new distributor from Advanced Auto Parts. The thing looked brand new and had a new pip sensor. It looked like the one i bought to fix the issue.

Originally Posted by subford View Post
You also have the wrong color ICM, it should black and you have the gray one (212).
I have a black ICM on the fender

Originally Posted by subford View Post
You may also have other problem (TPS) open wire (122) and the EGR not opening (332), vacuum line broken?
I have not checked for vacuum yet.

I reran the codes and it came back just 111. Not sure if i reset the codes or not.

Timing issue thoughts:I could not rent a timing light gun from advance. I went to harbor freight and bought one. What a piece of crap. It was not bright enough. I also cannot read any of the numbers on the balancer. So that might be the issue.

I marked everything and put the new distributor in like the markings. I started it then adjusted the timing by ear. Not the best idea i know. I turned it counter clockwise the engine rpms went lower. Turned it clockwise they revved a little higher. I put it in the middle. So probably not the best. I will probably take it to a mechanic and have them adjust the timing. Im sure they won't charge too much.

Now when I first got into the truck and drove it a bit, it was in limp mode. Pedal to floor wouldn't go about 15mph. Saw that i didn't tighten the distributor lock enough. Adjusted the timing again and locked it good. It goes up to 40-50 just fine. I think there is a little lack of power. I am sure that is with my crap timing.

Question is can i royally mess something up running on bad timing for a week or so till i can get it to a mechanic?

Thank again Subford for everything.
 
  #23  
Old 01-19-2016, 06:59 AM
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Timing too advanced can cause detonation and that can cause damaged.

I have all ways had a timing light so I have never tried to time one without one. Others have said that they could put a vacuum gauge on the engine and time it to the highest vacuum reading reading. Be sure to remove the SPOUT when you time it by ear or vacuum gauge and also with a timing light. With a timing light set it to 10*BTDC.

Your the first one that I have ran into here that had the 212 code and did not have the wrong color ICM. But I guess you could have bad wiring (rodent damage, open IDM wire), a bad ICM or PCM. DTC 212 will only show up in CM codes display after you have driven the truck.

But here is what the book says about the DTC 212:
MEMORY DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 212
DTC 212 indicates a loss of IDM input to the PCM.
Possible Causes:
-- Open harness circuit.
-- Shorted harness circuit.
-- Damaged Ignition Control Module (ICM).
-- Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
/
 
  #24  
Old 01-19-2016, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by MKLC View Post
Timing issue thoughts:I could not rent a timing light gun from advance. I went to harbor freight and bought one. What a piece of crap. It was not bright enough. I also cannot read any of the numbers on the balancer. So that might be the issue.
Not sure what harbor freight is selling for a timing light I know a few years ago back in the 1950's there was a neon timing light and you had to use it at night or in side with the lights off.
The ones that hook to the battery work very well but have a few of those that quit working.
As for the Damper markings a little sand paper to clean it and then use something to mart TDC & 10*BTDC before checking the timing with the SPOUT out. You might also want to highlight the pointer a little.



/
 
  #25  
Old 01-19-2016, 04:41 PM
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So something crazy happened. The firing order is not correct. It is the order from a ho. 13726548. I am guessing the engine was replace at one time?
 
  #26  
Old 01-19-2016, 07:04 PM
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The firing order should be 13726548 for a 1994 5.0L engine.
 
  #27  
Old 01-19-2016, 07:06 PM
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Ok good I thought I was crazy.
 
 
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