So on my to way work today, the 2004 6.0 decides to die out like it ran out of gas. It will crank but wont start. If i crank it for a extended period, it will sound like its about to turn over and eventually slowly start. It will then idle and run, but when i push the acc pedal it dies out.

I got it towed back to the house. I have a AE and plan to hook it up tmrw.

What should I start looking for?

I unplugged the ICP and it still wont start.

I can hear the injectors clacking and i can also hear the fuel pump.

 

Post up what you are reading ICP and IPR whilst cranking.
FICM volts, KOEO, and if you get FICM sync while cranking.

Remeber, 6.0 takes 500 psi just to light up.

Also, let us know if it starts up easily after it's cooled down overnight.
Is your ICP under the turbo or on valve cover?

 

[QUOTE=
Is your ICP under the turbo or on valve cover?[/QUOTE]

On the pass side valve cover.

 

UPDATE-

I went out this morning and tried to crank the truck. It slowly started, (started easier than yesterday) after about 6 seconds of cranking. Yesterday when the engine was hot it barely started. It will run and idle fine, but when i push down on the acc, it will barely rev up to 1000 RPM's, no higher. When i put it in drive, it will die out.

Hooked up AE-

ICP while cranking-SLOWLY and barely gets to 500 then cranks. Will not stay running when put in DRive

FICM volts KOEO- 52V main power, 11.5 vehicle power

FICM sync- 1 YES

ICPR at 15% when KOEO, then while cranking goes to 85%

When engine did start, ICPR at 85% steady

 

You are likely looking at doing an air test.
IIRC the 04 with ICP on valve cover might still have the old style HPOP, with new style wavy oil rails(?)..........someone correct me if I am wrong here but logic would tell me this if your ICP is on the valve cover pass side.
You should be able to tell if this is true just by looking at the HPOP cover. The newer style the HPOP actually sticks up through the cover.

So, normally my bet would be you are looking at an HPOP, but with the later style oil rails might also have stand pipes and dummy plugs that need attention.

Countless threads here and youtube about doing an air test.
Word to the wise........if it's the HPOP go with the better one and not the OEM.
http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/di...FQ6RaQodp7QGTg

You might try taking out the IPR first to check the screen, for debris and or damage.


Do you have any codes?

 

I'm pretty sure its a late build 2004.

manufacture date 06/2004

 

Not sure if AE can command the IPR valve closed, but you can get an air test tool for $90 that doesn't require jumping the IPR:
http://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/252.html
6.0L High Pressure Oil System IPR Air Test Tool

 

I dont think AE will command the IPR

 

Do you guys think I have a high pressure oil leak?

 

More like $199 for that bad boy.

Check IPR screen.
ICP barely at 500 and IPR at 85%... that's a fully open IPR supplying every drop of oil to build pressure and you can't make but 500psi...

It started easier in the cold morning because oil was thicker, after its warm, the leak flows oil better because of the thin oil.

YEP, you got a leak! Yep, you've got a late build.

 

What should the IPR be at idle?

 

KOEO should be 14.8, idle at full temp should be 21-23% and depends on tuning. Some guys have 23-24% after tuning. Mine is 20.7-21.4% and tuned. ICP at temp should be 580-650psi.

HPOP should be able to make 3000+, closer to 4000.

 

22 to 24% when up to full operating temp of around 180*

 

Get the fitting only for $90 and make your own hose. Some people can't/won't so I posted both options. I do realize now I said tool and the tool is the expensive one, should have said fitting.

 

If I can hear a leak, how hard is it to find? As far as determining if it's the HPOP.

Ive changed the oil cooler, done EGR delete, new turbo, so I'm not a stranger to this engine. I haven't been down under the valve covers however.

I'm at the point now where I dont know if it's better for me to fix it or just trade it in as it sits.

Ugggh frustrating.