1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

rideing down the road----wtf

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  #31  
Old 01-14-2016, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 1bigjoe
well ill try what you said
the ipc is new out of the box
there was no smoke out of the tail pipe
I was starting to lean towards pcm--because
the brand new gpr is not getting power to glow plug side
I have since replaced fuse #22 that was burned
removed wire on fuel bowl for heater

this is what is so frustrating about this problem
new gpr
new icp
new ipr
new cam sensor
whats left
And it might be the PCM, but as someone above pointed out, you're kind of putting the cart before the horse. Replacing parts and saying "What's left" is going to get you nowhere fast because there's a LOT left. You have to troubleshoot.

1) PCM failure is RARE.
2) Glow plugs are only a starting aid. If your truck died on the highway, it absolutely positively 100% was not because of the glow plug relay. What's more, if you aren't getting smoke out the tailpipe, then the glow plugs aren't the problem.

So, back to basics:
1) Fuse 22 is good now, right? Verify again that it isn't blown.
2) Remove any aftermarket chip attached to your PCM.
3) Are you low on oil? Your truck won't run at all if you're low on oil.
4) Verify the tach is moving when you crank the engine. A tach not moving is an indication of a bad CPS, but just because the CPS is moving doesn't mean you have a GOOD CPS. As someone else already stated, aftermarket CPS are sometimes bad out of the box. Until you put a new Ford/Motorcraft/International CPS in, then we can't assume you have a good working CPS.
5) You need to check your fuel pressure when cranking, as I detailed above.
6) Then you need to try starting it with your ICP unplugged and see if you get any smoke.
7) Then you need to get a scan tool capable of communicating with your engine and reading live values. Sometime like Auto Enginuity ($300+) or Torque Pro the Android App with a Bluetooth OBD-II reading (about $20). Once you do this, monitor your ICP and IPR Duty Cycle while cranking. You can also measure your high oil pressure with a gauge capable of reading at least 3000 PSI. You'll need an adapter to do this. You pull one of the plugs out of the oil rail in the head and replace it with a #5 ORB male to 1/4" NPT female adapter, install a 1/4" "whip" hose, and put your gauge on the other end.
8) After verifying that you have adequate ICP, your next step is to check the IDM by conducting an Injector Buzz Test and a Cylinder Contribution Test. You will need Auto Engenuity or Torque Pro and Car Gauge Pro on Android to do this.
 
  #32  
Old 01-14-2016, 08:14 PM
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https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Byb4...VGc/view?pli=1

This is a great no start trouble shooting chart as well.
 
  #33  
Old 01-14-2016, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by lemonshindig
Replacing parts and saying "What's left" is going to get you nowhere fast because there's a LOT left. You have to troubleshoot.
+1; and worse than "nowhere fast", it'll make you POOR fast.
 
  #34  
Old 01-15-2016, 07:56 AM
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you anit kidding these parts are pricey ---
and I don't feel like I'm going nowhere- I'm learning a lot and to me that has more value that the $um of the parts

I do feel that the truck is going nowhere fast--maybe today!!!

well its Friday mourning-sunshing
coach-----I'm--going in
todays procdure---
first I have to reinstall the
pcm and idm I took out yesterday

check oil level

check fuel pressure at schrade valve

un plug icp see ifi get smoke

I don't have an android
the scanner I have innova 3100
 
  #35  
Old 01-15-2016, 09:07 AM
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No one mentioned to check the wire harness on the driver side rubbing against the valve cover, very common place for it to rub thru the wires. Also have you checked your oil level? And you do have a compatible code reader, because a generic code reader wont do squat in a powerstroke.
 
  #36  
Old 01-15-2016, 10:09 AM
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^^^^ Actually, the OP does NOT have a compatible code reader.
 
  #37  
Old 01-15-2016, 10:12 AM
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Theres the first problem
 
  #38  
Old 01-15-2016, 10:16 AM
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10 psi at schrader
 
  #39  
Old 01-15-2016, 10:46 AM
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While cranking, thats low should read obove 25psi to start, make sure the gauge works right, try it on a tire.
 
  #40  
Old 01-15-2016, 10:51 AM
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tshrager--- thank you for chart---
that is a good tool
I tries two tire gagues
ill try it on a tire
 
  #41  
Old 01-15-2016, 01:08 PM
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took fuel filter out-
drained bowl --not pretty--
I thought the stem coming up that the filter sits on was solid--wrong- it has a screen in it
black as nite clogged -- all clean now
while the filter was out I turned out motor with jumping the starter selnoid
fuel bowl filled up

removed bowl heater wire
 
  #42  
Old 01-15-2016, 01:13 PM
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with fuse 22 30 amp back in
I get power to the small wire red/yellow
I tried jumping the small post red/yellow
to the large glow plug post
fuse 22 blew straight away
something is shorting
got to get under valve covers check glow plugs/and wires
 
  #43  
Old 01-15-2016, 01:31 PM
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Don't do that, it will blow fuse 22. Small wire red/yellow is power from fuse 22 and jumping it to large GPR post is the same as shorting the wire to ground. Glow plugs are only ~ 1 ohm, same as ground.
 
  #44  
Old 01-19-2016, 06:56 AM
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well yesterday I pulled the fuel bowl----cleaned that mess up
pulled fuel pump-- cleaned up valley--
replaced fuel pump with new one--
put fuel bowl back-----
then went sit by the fire--I was freezeing
today ill be back at it
some people don't like throwing parts at it--
I get that-- but I'm new at powerstrokes- -and really just learning how these operate
were every thing is
only paid $1400 for the truck
so new ipr
ipc
cps
gpr
fuel pump
cant hurt on a truck with 250k miles
also bought set of zd-11 gps
but the didn't go in yet
they will go in when I pull the injectors and replace the O-rings
were do y'all buy O-rings for them --about how much are they
also bought a s
 
  #45  
Old 01-19-2016, 09:03 AM
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Alliant Injector O-rings - Ford 7.3L Powerstroke (94-03)


What is 'also bought a s'? A new ***, what did that cost? LOL
 


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