Archoil and Cold Weather Starting
#1
Archoil and Cold Weather Starting
I've been using Opti-Lube Summer in my 6.7L since my first fill up, and started combining it with AR6200 at about 2000 miles with good results. At my first oil change at 5000 miles with 5W40, I added AR9100 to the oil.
When the cold finally got to Vermont this week, I started using the block heater and Opti-Lube Winter with morning temps between plus 5 and minus 10. I didn't bother last night thinking it would be warmer, but it was 5 degrees when I went to the truck this morning. I turned the key to on, waited for the glow plug light to cycle off and cranked it. It a second, it was idling smoothly at 1200, then down to 750 RPM. This stuff is working!
I started recording regens 1000 miles ago and went 600 miles between the last two and have over 500 miles since the last one with soot gpl at 1.55. All three products claim soot reduction and I believe it.
I have a 76 mile daily round trip commute with speeds from 25 to 70 and do see some passive regen.
When the cold finally got to Vermont this week, I started using the block heater and Opti-Lube Winter with morning temps between plus 5 and minus 10. I didn't bother last night thinking it would be warmer, but it was 5 degrees when I went to the truck this morning. I turned the key to on, waited for the glow plug light to cycle off and cranked it. It a second, it was idling smoothly at 1200, then down to 750 RPM. This stuff is working!
I started recording regens 1000 miles ago and went 600 miles between the last two and have over 500 miles since the last one with soot gpl at 1.55. All three products claim soot reduction and I believe it.
I have a 76 mile daily round trip commute with speeds from 25 to 70 and do see some passive regen.
#3
Regenned yesterday at 528 miles. This is the kind of intervals I saw while towing across country. So at this point, I have winter fuel, Opti-Lube Winter, AR6200, AR9100 with Motorcraft 10w30 and the 5-Star Daily Tow tune which keeps RPMs higher with the transmission tuning. I get enough passive regen or lack of soot production in my daily commute that my regens occur from a time out instead of soot grams per liter. When I first got the truck, regens happened more often with a gpl of somewhere between 2.60 and 3.50.
#4
Wow I'm amazed at how little info or certifications, white papers etc are on arch oil products....
Then to see the same uneducated garbage spewed all over website about "friction modifiers" (see slick50 zmax etc) as other snake oil products.
Near as I can tell it looks like a similar formulation as zmax for gasoline cars...I.e corrosive as hell on your fuel system.
It should be real interesting explaining the increased wear on your fuel and exhaust system due to the corrosive nature of the additive...
Also, those distances for regen are nothing new for a fairly new truck with low miles. I'm routinely 450 average with out doing a darn thing. If I pull a trailer it will never regen until the max distance til regen counter is met.
Point is, that maybe you are seeing slight improvement (highly doubt it), you most likely are doing more harm to the fuel / exhaust system than good.
A fancy high priced boutique additive based on 70s tech is what most additives are these days. They worked great then but are catastrophic to modern fuel and exhaust systems (catalytic converters dpfs etc) and the modern materials used in them.
Proper fuel cetane levels and regular drain intervals of the dfcm will be far more productive and easier on the pocket book vs magic potions in the bottle.
Then to see the same uneducated garbage spewed all over website about "friction modifiers" (see slick50 zmax etc) as other snake oil products.
Near as I can tell it looks like a similar formulation as zmax for gasoline cars...I.e corrosive as hell on your fuel system.
It should be real interesting explaining the increased wear on your fuel and exhaust system due to the corrosive nature of the additive...
Also, those distances for regen are nothing new for a fairly new truck with low miles. I'm routinely 450 average with out doing a darn thing. If I pull a trailer it will never regen until the max distance til regen counter is met.
Point is, that maybe you are seeing slight improvement (highly doubt it), you most likely are doing more harm to the fuel / exhaust system than good.
A fancy high priced boutique additive based on 70s tech is what most additives are these days. They worked great then but are catastrophic to modern fuel and exhaust systems (catalytic converters dpfs etc) and the modern materials used in them.
Proper fuel cetane levels and regular drain intervals of the dfcm will be far more productive and easier on the pocket book vs magic potions in the bottle.
#5
This is not 70s technology at all. Here is a link to a study of nanolubricants: http://energy.gov/sites/prod/files/2...mir_2014_o.pdf
The Archoil products are nano technology. Note that the study shows reduced friction even when used with the new reduced friction diesel oil PC-11 coming out in December, 2016.
The Archoil products are nano technology. Note that the study shows reduced friction even when used with the new reduced friction diesel oil PC-11 coming out in December, 2016.
#6
Here is a review of Archoil feel and oil additives from the March 2016 issue of Diesel Tech Magazine:
http://read.uberflip.com/i/637584-march
The results of adding AR6200 to the fuel and AR9100 to the oil in a 2010 6.4L were a 2.4 mpg increase on a 1300 mile trip over the previous trip. I should be so lucky!
http://read.uberflip.com/i/637584-march
The results of adding AR6200 to the fuel and AR9100 to the oil in a 2010 6.4L were a 2.4 mpg increase on a 1300 mile trip over the previous trip. I should be so lucky!
#7
have to say it's funny to read comments from folks that have not used a product bashing it.
I have used and know others that HAVE used archoil products and they say the results you read or true as they have seen the same benefits..
I follow a couple that travels in an Airstream posting on youtube under "loloho" or long long honeymoon.
They own a 2006? 6.0L ford f-250 and stiction was a big issue especially in cold weather. THey boondock a lot so plugging in a engine heater was not possible. The engine showed the issue most 6.0's do in cold with hardly running at crank up and running smooth in cold. It would take several times to get it to just run with no bucking.. they have video of it.
They added the archoil to fuel tank and were saying within 100 or so mile noticed the engine was smoother and somewhat quieter as well..
the real test came the next morning with temps at or below freezing. the engine started up, idles smooth with no issues on first crank.
sometimes the best technology is the old tried and true stuff.
THEY were sold on this stuff. I used it and notice smooth and better fuel mileage as well.
I have used and know others that HAVE used archoil products and they say the results you read or true as they have seen the same benefits..
I follow a couple that travels in an Airstream posting on youtube under "loloho" or long long honeymoon.
They own a 2006? 6.0L ford f-250 and stiction was a big issue especially in cold weather. THey boondock a lot so plugging in a engine heater was not possible. The engine showed the issue most 6.0's do in cold with hardly running at crank up and running smooth in cold. It would take several times to get it to just run with no bucking.. they have video of it.
They added the archoil to fuel tank and were saying within 100 or so mile noticed the engine was smoother and somewhat quieter as well..
the real test came the next morning with temps at or below freezing. the engine started up, idles smooth with no issues on first crank.
sometimes the best technology is the old tried and true stuff.
THEY were sold on this stuff. I used it and notice smooth and better fuel mileage as well.
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#8
Wow I'm amazed at how little info or certifications, white papers etc are on arch oil products....
Then to see the same uneducated garbage spewed all over website about "friction modifiers" (see slick50 zmax etc) as other snake oil products.
Near as I can tell it looks like a similar formulation as zmax for gasoline cars...I.e corrosive as hell on your fuel system.
It should be real interesting explaining the increased wear on your fuel and exhaust system due to the corrosive nature of the additive...
Also, those distances for regen are nothing new for a fairly new truck with low miles. I'm routinely 450 average with out doing a darn thing. If I pull a trailer it will never regen until the max distance til regen counter is met.
Point is, that maybe you are seeing slight improvement (highly doubt it), you most likely are doing more harm to the fuel / exhaust system than good.
A fancy high priced boutique additive based on 70s tech is what most additives are these days. They worked great then but are catastrophic to modern fuel and exhaust systems (catalytic converters dpfs etc) and the modern materials used in them.
Proper fuel cetane levels and regular drain intervals of the dfcm will be far more productive and easier on the pocket book vs magic potions in the bottle.
Then to see the same uneducated garbage spewed all over website about "friction modifiers" (see slick50 zmax etc) as other snake oil products.
Near as I can tell it looks like a similar formulation as zmax for gasoline cars...I.e corrosive as hell on your fuel system.
It should be real interesting explaining the increased wear on your fuel and exhaust system due to the corrosive nature of the additive...
Also, those distances for regen are nothing new for a fairly new truck with low miles. I'm routinely 450 average with out doing a darn thing. If I pull a trailer it will never regen until the max distance til regen counter is met.
Point is, that maybe you are seeing slight improvement (highly doubt it), you most likely are doing more harm to the fuel / exhaust system than good.
A fancy high priced boutique additive based on 70s tech is what most additives are these days. They worked great then but are catastrophic to modern fuel and exhaust systems (catalytic converters dpfs etc) and the modern materials used in them.
Proper fuel cetane levels and regular drain intervals of the dfcm will be far more productive and easier on the pocket book vs magic potions in the bottle.
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