If you get a tire tread depth guage and check your tires each month, you may be surprised as to how long you can go without a rotation.

If you have to pay for the rotation, figure up how much you will spend on the life of the tire.

Our fleet manager stopped the rotations and went to an as needed only if other issues were causing the uneven tire wear.

 

Yikes! Wow...what a horrendous method for TPMS learning. Definitely NOT something I'll be looking forward to. But...is necessary...IMHO.


biz

 

The posted procedure is for 2015 manual. Are the 2016 same?

 

My last rotation I didn't do any procedure to reset the sensors. I just drove around a while. When I got home I checked the gauge on the dash and confirmed them with my actual tire pressure gauge. To test if they were in the right position I lowered one tire about 10 psi. Checked it on the gauge on the truck and it was the correct tire. It sure seems that it actually does reposition itself after a driving cycle. On my 2016 XLT 302a it does anyways. Local dealer doesn't do the reset either. They just tell the customer to drive and it will adjust.

 

My 2006 Cadillac DTS had a very similar relearn procedure. You could get into the training mode via the console, but then you had to let air out of each tire until the horn beeped. And it was the same sequence, starting with left (driver side) front tire. Definitely a pain.

The Quick Lane at my closest Ford Dealer will throw in a tire rotation along with an oil change for $39.95. I asked, they do reset the TPMS system.

 

WOW talk about a painful procedure. My wife has a KIA and she never has to do this, but I don't her system will tell you which tire is low. Its come on several times, I just start checking the tire and find the low one. She has had the tires rotated by the dealer, don't know if they did anything special. But My 06 F250 don't have any stinking pressure monitors and I love it. To bad my new 2018 truck will have this gov't FUBAR. I guess system will never know which tire is low. Actually it probably will never know.

Let me ask a question - If you remove all of the valve caps and throw them in a drawer someplace, will the truck still function ???

 

Has nothing to do with the cap

 

OK - then it doesn't make any difference other than having the truck tell you which tire is low.

 

A proper rotation moves the drive wheels straight, and crosses the other two. So on an F150, your RR should end up on RF, and the RF will end up on LR.


On a FWD car, the RR would go to the LF, and the LF would go to the LR.


This has been considered the proper way to rotate for decades, but most people are unaware.


If you have a full size spare (on the same type of wheel), you can rotate that one into the mix, but most people don't (other than Jeep owners).

 

There are tires that are directional and need to be kept on the same side.

The tire manufacturer may have different instructions. Such as BF Goodrich and 4 Wheel drives.

It's funny that as oil change requirements changed, so did tire rotation requirements. Now you can go 10,000 miles before rotation if your oil monitor let's you go that high.

 

If Ford would put the same wheel on the spare as the other four, I would do a 5-tire rotation! But I'm not shelling out extra for a wheel to match the four on the ground - in my opinion all five should match from the factory. When that spare does not get included in the rotation is how we end up with 10 and even 20 year old tires, rotten from age, eventually getting used because its still a "new" tire! Most people have no idea of how to check the manufacturing date of a tire.

 

So obviously you would only do front-to-rear in those situations, but those are a very, very small minority of vehicles (probably less than 1%).


Newer vehicles also have better geometry in their suspensions, and don't have as many bad tire wear issues as older vehicles did, which is probably part of the reason why some have extended their tire rotation recommendation.

 

I hear ya, but if Ford sells 800,000 F-150s in a given year, and they save $100 on each one (by using steel for the spare instead of Al alloy), that's 80 million bucks in their pocket. And the savings are probably more than $100 each. So that's how they look at it.

 

Radial belted tires are not only BFG's, Just about all manufactures make Radial tires and they have an indicator on the tire which states direction to have the tire correctly mounted, but many manufacture still make bias plyed tires which have different requirements. Radial tires are required to always spin in the direction specified by the Manufacture.

Also it makes no difference on the vehicles geometry, yes today's vehicle's are much better than years ago. I'm amazed how well the front end stays together on my 05 F250 ! I've taken it in for alignment twice over the last 12 years, and they sent me home each time ! But not so much for my previous 94 Chev 2500 IFS. In less than 5 years it required new Idler + Tie rod ends.

 

When I changed my wheels and tires, I bought new Ford TPMSs and did nothing to calibrate/program them. The truck did it on its own. A few weeks ago I rotated my tires. Again I did nothing. After reading this thread, I let some air out of my right front tire. I then checked my dash readout and it showed the right front tire lower than the others. I aired up all tires and even without driving it was showing changes. After driving my left front showed pound more than others, let a little air out and they were all the same. I don't know how it reads the pressures but it does. My truck is 2016 XLT, super crew, 3.5 eco. Some of you might be over thinking this subject, unless the different years deal with the TPMSs differently. Just my 2 cents.