So I turned off my truck the other day, got out, and it started again on its own. Confused, I looked in my hand to see my key. I got back in, and tapped the brake thinking the command start had engaged, even though I did not have the remote with me. It continued to run. So I put the key back in the ignition, turned it to ON and back OFF. It still ran. I had to run inside for a half a minute so I left it running. Came back and drove away with no issues. When I stopped again about 2 minutes later and shifted to PARK, the starter engaged making it's terrible 'hey stupid, I'm already running' sound. I tried shutting it OFF quickly but it still ran and made it's skinning crawling noise. So I quickly shifted back to DRIVE. All the gears worked fine but PARK and NEUTRAL had the starter engaging. I also could not shut the truck off from DRIVE as the key would not turn.


I drove over to a local garage and called them from the truck as I was effectively trapped in the truck with my foot on the brake, unable to shift to PARK or turn it OFF. But with it being New Year's Eve there was limited staff and no one to help. So I drove back to work where I had a co-worker remove the battery cable at which point I was able to shift to PARK and turn OFF the truck. I let it sit like that for about 10 minutes and haven't had a problem since.


What happened?? And for the record I can put gas in the tank and changed my own oil, but that is the extent of my vehicle knowledge.

 

Sounds like a short in the ignition switch.
Follow the positive battery cable to the starter relay, there should be a wire with a rubber boot on it. if this happens again before you fix the problem just pull the rubber boot off & it should disengage the starter.

And heres how it works: when you turn the key to start 12 volts flows thru the neutral safety switch to the wire with the rubber boot. The relay closes & connects 12 volts to the starter solenoid & the starter engages.

Edit to add that the neutral safety switch is between the ignition switch & starter relay, thats why the starter disengages when you shift to drive or reverse.

 

Welcome to FTE. From your post wording, do I detect that you have an aftermarket remote start system installed & looking at your signature, is this a 94 B4000 vehicle???

 

Yes and yes. It is a 1994 B4000 and the remote starter was in it when I purchased the vehicle 10 years ago.

 

Ok, I'd depower the remote start system & see if the problem goes away. If it does, how long has it been since the remote FOB battery has been replaced????

 

Let me first ask if my potential problem(s) is something I should be trying to resolve on my own. I'm still trying to wrap my head around 87 XLT's ignition switch scenario. I really do appreciate the help in trying to understand the problem, I just don't want to make everyone feel like their wasting their time. Now to most who read this that will wonder what was so hard to understand, let me remind all that I'm almost completely useless. I'm actually quite proud I was even able to join this forum on my own. (although now thinking, 'what was I thinking?')
I do believe I've found a web site to help me through replacing the ignition switch. Was getting a bit excited for the challenge, and if I accomplish such I'd feel like a built the truck from scratch,
So if there are still any takers lets tentatively move on
Depowering the remote system: depowering the remote system??
Battery in remote is most likely original as I have no memory of changing it, and yes memory is also challenge I deal with. I don't often use the command start, like a couple times a year, but it is very handy when I do. Always works when in range, but the range is abysmal.
I should maybe mention that there is an immobilizer installed as well. Figured that may come into play when talking thing-a-ma-dos, whatcha-ma-call-its and wiring.
Any thing or stage of anything I start I need to be able to complete in an evening or a weekend (in an unheated garage in a Canadian Prairie winter, -thanks for the reprieve El Nino) as I use my truck for work.

 

I was suggesting to pull the power fuse for the Vehicle remote start system to see if the problem goes away.
If you can't remember when, or if the FOB remote battery has ever been replaced, it sure belongs on your suspect list, so you might also try that, as low battery voltage can make them do strange things.
If the FOB has recently been exposed to moisture, like been washed with your clothes & or run through the dryer, its suspect.

 

Ok that's easier to understand and seems like a lot less work. Being an aftermarket remote start system, how would I know which fuse belonged to it? My only guess would be it's the fuse panel in the engine compartment and whatever fuse is not ID'd in the manual would be the one I pull. ?
And I may (I do) need some more insight as to how the remote start could be the culprit if I did not have the FOB with me? Or is that like asking for the science behind the Bermuda Triangle? A low battery would be the only issue there as the remote sits in a drawer(dry) 99% of the time.

 

And if it did happen again after having the fuse out, would I then go back to 87 XLT temp solution of
'if this happens again before you fix the problem just pull the rubber boot off & it should disengage the starter.'

 

Even if you didn't have the FOB remote on your person, if it was within range, it can trigger the system, like if its in a drawer & something is pressing on the keys, or if its battery is low & causing the electronics to act out.
Yes if you depower the remote start system in the vehicle & the problem remains, then you know the remote start system is likely ok, so then begin to trouble shoot vehicle components as 87 XLT outlined.
Since you don't believe the FOB remote battery has been replaced in the past 10 years, or maybe never, I'd replace its battery.
Is the truck battery, battery cables & their connections on both ends in good condition & the vehicle battery up to & holding a full charge & the alternator putting out rated power & its regulator keeping the battery properly charged???

 

If you can't track down the guy you bought the truck from, to find out if he installed the system, or had a pro somewhere do it. you might look on the remote start mfgr's web site to see where they suggest the power for the system be taken from, then look in that area for its power fuse.

 

I will get a new FOB battery.
I replaced the truck battery in November as it too was original from my purchase 10yrs ago and did not want to extend my luck on that front. Cables seem good condition to me and I had the alternator replaced in May of 2012. Whether or not it's doing it's job effectively is beyond my ability. Haven't had any issues with gauges or the like.
Hey now that I think of it, I have had some days when I've turned the key and nothing happened. It's not frequent, but it has happened over the last year or so. But would still start upon trying again. Thought it was a dead/low battery the first time it happened. Boy that kinda seems important now...

 

OK, that's more good feedback. Yup the intermittent no crank may be a good clue. When it next does this, try shifting into "N" & see if it'll then wake up & crank.

 

I'd have been back sooner, but my internet connection was down yesterday & I could'nt use my PC or tablet.

Odds are the ignition switch is causing the problem, but as PawPaw sez it could also be a glitch in the remote starter. Since it only acts up once in awhile it will be real hard to figure out what the problem is.

The last ignition switch i replaced was on my 87 Ranger, it was 12 bucks & took me 15 minutes to do it.

If you replace the switch yourself theres a good chance it will fix the problem & if it does'nt you wont be out much money.

Do a google search on "Replacing the ignition switch on a 1994 B4000." Once you have read how it's done you can decide if you want to do it yourself.

 

pawpaw-
I've found a toggle switch under the dash that disables the remote starter but allows for the door locks to be used on the remote. I am assuming it has now been "depowered"? Correct me if I'm wrong.


87 XLT-
I will try and get a price on the ignition switch tomorrow. Just to be sure I'm understanding, this is the ignition switch and not the starter switch or ignition lock cylinder? I'm coming across some googled info where the term seems to be used interchangeably. As if I wasn't confused enough already.