Help. 99 explorer no start.
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Help. 99 explorer no start.
This morning was cold. Went to start and it slowly cranked but no start.
Tried jumping but again slow crank and no start.
Thinking battery charged and tested and it's fully charged. Reinstalled and nothing.
No click.
No crank.
Nothing.
So thinking now. Start with relay.
Then starter solenoid.
Then starter?
Any ideas?
Could it be a column thing? Not fully in park or should I try in neutral?
Any ideas for this weird issue would be appreciated.
Have another thread needing a fuse diagram for inside and the box under the hood.
Any insight on both would be amazing.
Thank you.
Happy new year when it gets here.
Sincerely
Drew
Tried jumping but again slow crank and no start.
Thinking battery charged and tested and it's fully charged. Reinstalled and nothing.
No click.
No crank.
Nothing.
So thinking now. Start with relay.
Then starter solenoid.
Then starter?
Any ideas?
Could it be a column thing? Not fully in park or should I try in neutral?
Any ideas for this weird issue would be appreciated.
Have another thread needing a fuse diagram for inside and the box under the hood.
Any insight on both would be amazing.
Thank you.
Happy new year when it gets here.
Sincerely
Drew
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,812
Likes: 83
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Since the first indication was a slow crank, then you removed the battery and haven't been able to get it to even crank, I'd be thinking more along the lines of battery cables. Does your Explorer by chance have temporary battery cable ends that clamp down over the bare copper, rather than the OEM style molded cables? If so, those ends are supposed to be temporary only since they do nothing to prevent corrosion of the exposed copper wire. If your truck has those ends, I'd start by replacing the cables with molded cables.
Assuming the two issues are related, you can pretty much rule out a relay or anything in the steering column or with the park/neutral safety circuit since none of those would explain the slow cranking. My suggestion is to focus on making sure all battery cable connections are clean and tight.
-Rod
Assuming the two issues are related, you can pretty much rule out a relay or anything in the steering column or with the park/neutral safety circuit since none of those would explain the slow cranking. My suggestion is to focus on making sure all battery cable connections are clean and tight.
-Rod
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The negative cable has a lead connection. The positive that runs to the fuse box has the copper band.
I'm getting power to the dash and everything but the starter.
Great info Rod.
You are a forum God. Thank you so much.
I'll do some checking today.
I'm getting power to the dash and everything but the starter.
Great info Rod.
You are a forum God. Thank you so much.
I'll do some checking today.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,812
Likes: 83
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
The starter requires A LOT more current than the instrument cluster, radio, etc. So with a corroded connection, most of the electronics can still get enough power, but when the heavy load is requested (starter motor) the resistance limits too much current for the starter motor to run.
-Rod
-Rod
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Alright guys, I'm going to lose it, I'm being foiled by one nut.
The nut on the solenoid, main wire, do you know the size or any tips to weasel it off?
I'm working in the worst conditions. Can't Jack or move the rig, it's freezing and I just had shoulder surgery on my dominant arm. I have every other bolt lose and don't want to drop the starter and leave it hanging, if I mess up the harness I'm screwed.
Any combination of swivels, extensions or tricks?
Swear to the gods I've tried everything from open ends to stubbies but I cannot tell what size nut. You'd think it would be the same as the new solenoid but I cannot get anything to bite.
Maybe I just need to vent here. Start fresh tomorrow.
Tell you this...I'm putting a lift or pit in the new garage when the time comes.
The nut on the solenoid, main wire, do you know the size or any tips to weasel it off?
I'm working in the worst conditions. Can't Jack or move the rig, it's freezing and I just had shoulder surgery on my dominant arm. I have every other bolt lose and don't want to drop the starter and leave it hanging, if I mess up the harness I'm screwed.
Any combination of swivels, extensions or tricks?
Swear to the gods I've tried everything from open ends to stubbies but I cannot tell what size nut. You'd think it would be the same as the new solenoid but I cannot get anything to bite.
Maybe I just need to vent here. Start fresh tomorrow.
Tell you this...I'm putting a lift or pit in the new garage when the time comes.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,812
Likes: 83
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
A couple of things to try. If you have a place available where the working conditions would be better, you could try tapping on the starter with a broom handle a few times, then try to start it, repeat, etc. until either it starts or you are convinced it's not going to.
As to the size of the nut, it is most likely metric. If you think 13/32 is about the right size, the closest (and most common) size close to that would be 10 mm.
Which engine does your Explorer have (4.0L SOHC, 4.0L OHV, or 5.0L V8)? Could you remove the main cable from the fuse panel end and maybe one or two clamps, then snake the starter with the cable still attached out?
-Rod
As to the size of the nut, it is most likely metric. If you think 13/32 is about the right size, the closest (and most common) size close to that would be 10 mm.
Which engine does your Explorer have (4.0L SOHC, 4.0L OHV, or 5.0L V8)? Could you remove the main cable from the fuse panel end and maybe one or two clamps, then snake the starter with the cable still attached out?
-Rod
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Rod thank you.
Damn nut cost me 3 hours of my life but got it done and the car is up and running.
Open end wrench, patience and 1/2 a mm turn at a time.
What made it so hard was where it was parked. Couldn't get it jacked up. That coupled with a recovering broken shoulder and claustrophobic conditions made it painful.
Thankfully I'm a smaller framed guy.
Rod...really want to thank you for being so active on this forum. It's so important to participate here if you have knowledge. Time sensitive issues really need active members.
So thank you Rod. You make a difference here and have helped me several times.
Happy new year my friend.
You have my fathers name and you are serving it well. A great name for great men it seems.
Consider this thread resolved.
Damn nut cost me 3 hours of my life but got it done and the car is up and running.
Open end wrench, patience and 1/2 a mm turn at a time.
What made it so hard was where it was parked. Couldn't get it jacked up. That coupled with a recovering broken shoulder and claustrophobic conditions made it painful.
Thankfully I'm a smaller framed guy.
Rod...really want to thank you for being so active on this forum. It's so important to participate here if you have knowledge. Time sensitive issues really need active members.
So thank you Rod. You make a difference here and have helped me several times.
Happy new year my friend.
You have my fathers name and you are serving it well. A great name for great men it seems.
Consider this thread resolved.
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