Adding a turn signal set up to my '49 F1 was going well until I got to the rear lights (using the existing brake/tail light for my signals). Suddenly lost power to 3 circuits - brake switch, running lights and dash lights. So I jumped some power to the brake switch directly off the battery to finish the turn signals which now work fine. However, I cannot find a source for the failure of the three circuits noted above.
Running 6V original wiring which is admittedly pretty ratty but thought someone might have an idea as to why these three power wires went dead beyond just doing a full forensic study on every inch of my old wires.

 

What turn signal controller are you using? How many wires?

 

Seven wire turn signal controller that I bought from the taillight king.com. Used a post on the ignition key to get power (same post as the heater wire), and then connected the flasher wire to the stop switch. As mentioned, I was happy to see the turn signals all work with this set up, but perhaps this led to the other 3 power supplies not working. Thanks for your insight as always.

 

For your emergency flashers to work, your TS power needs to come from a source that is always on, not switched like the ACC (GA) terminal on your ignition switch. Also it sounds like you connected the TS unit to the stop light switch in addition to the brake lights; power from the brake light switch (downstream side) needs to go to the TS system and not to the brake lights. Brake lights get their power from the TS switch. I assume all your light assemblies are converted to dual-filament?

 

Good call on the flashers - I will make that change on the power supply.
As for the brake lights, the original wire from the stop light switch to the right rear tail light housing was abandoned in place of the two rear TS wires, and the stop light switch is now feeding to the turn signal mechanism on the steering column. Brakes and both front and rear turn signals work as designed. Taillight bulbs were and remain dual filament, but I have lost power to the running lights with this setup.
Appreciate all the help

 

Have you checked the circuit breakers on the back of your gauge panel?

 

No I haven't. Never been in there before so it will be a first look for me. As I understand the circuit breakers, they get overheated and "break" the circuit, then cool off and reset themselves. I will look in the manual to see if there are other nuances to be looking for with the circuit breakers. I don't know how many breakers there are but if my 3 circuits are all on one of them, maybe it will be an easy fix.

 

There should be two circuit breakers mounted behind the gauges. You should have battery power on both terminals (in and out) on each breaker.

 

Not sure if you have this but here is the diagram that came with my wiring kit. Hope this helps.

 

My diagram looks very similar except for the printed note on the "hot" power lead, and your handwritten notation of a BY wire to the parking light circuit. I have a seven wire TS system, including the 5 wires on the right side of your diagram running to the 4 turn lights and the stop switch, plus the additional two wires running out to the flasher. If I add another wire to the parking circuit on the HL switch, where does the other end of that wire go? Should I just put on the same "hot" power lead?

 

Remember that parking lights are fused (CB) separately from the headlights, and the fronts don't operate when the headlights are on, if you have stock headlight switch and wiring.

I can't think why you'd have the TS switch involved in the parking lights as shown on that diagram.

 

Actually, I do not have that extra wire shown in the diagram, but my front parking lights are serving as my turn signals as I no longer have them hooked up to the parking light wires. However, it is my rear tail lights/running lights that do not work. They were working as was my stop light switch and my dash lights, but now these 3 items are not. My son checked the circuit breakers (since I can't contort my body that way any more) and was surprised that there were wires only on 3 of the 4 posts, but he saw no loose or disconnected wires in the area. Since all 3 circuits worked previously, I can't believe a wire suddenly disappeared off one of the posts and knocked out this multiple power feed, but that is why I am on this forum, to see if I can solicit some real knowledge.
Happy New Year to all.

 

Seems like every time we mess with our tail lights we run into problems. Did you check to make sure you haven't lost ground on the tail lamps tinkering with it? We usually just run a test wire from one of the tail light posts to a bumper bolt or something not painted.

 

Sorry about the delay in responding but we were off the grid, camping on the Oregon coast for New Years.

I think mine is set up with the extra wire as I an using the front running lights for turn signals. (single socket) I ordered a complete wiring harness with all the options that I plan to run. The main harness running light wire goes to the turn signal switch and is switched like the rear brake/ turn lights.

I looked at the shop manual and the three circuits you are having issues with seem to go through the same breaker. The one labeled "A". The other breaker "H" goes to the headlights. Maybe the breaker decided to give up the ghost? Could you check that there is proper voltage on the output side of breaker "A"? The two breakers are tied together with a bar on the input side.

 

I'm sorry, but chasing any other issue before the basics have been double checked doesn't make sense. Nearly every case we've seen comes down to simple things: incorrect wiring connections or faulty grounding. This is especially true about tail lights. Back up, confirm that the wires are actually connected per the diagrams and run a couple temporary ground wires. You may have some unusual issue, but systemically confirming fundamental assumptions needs to be starting point.