Thanks about my build.
Do you have a thread started on your flare side and if not when you get going start one.
Dave ----

 

 

It not hard if you have a truck to pull parts from. I had the same year style side parts truck I got the parts from for my project.
First know the hiring harness, inside and outside, is different between duel and non-duel tank trucks.
The HVAC control panel is different as the tank switch is to the right of it. There also is I think 3 or 4 different panels / switches / cables depending on years so I found out.
The rear cross member just in front to the rear tank is different and is needed to mount the rear tank.

Then you have the filler door. The flare side fuel doors are different than style side fuel doors see link
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Fl...assy-td10571.h
Now you can use the style side door if you want but the shape & size is off a little but I don't think anyone would know by looking at them. I was lucky my brother sent me a FS fuel door & neck assy. that I used but I did use some of the SS neck assy. & hoses to make it all work.
When I do more work on this part I will document what I used if I can remember LOL.
Dave ----

 

Had a long post almost done and the dog pulled plug on computer
Before it got too hot, low to mid 90's today & tomorrow, I hit the garage at 6am.

I got the 2 wheel cly from Rock Auto yesterday so set out to replace them. Both were new when I rebuilt the rear drums but 1 was leaking and I had not even driven it!
The leaking said came apart easy but not so going back together. Bolted up and line tight put the pins in the cly and 1 side would not push in WTH!
Pulled it out to look at and it now the pin went in?? So back in it went and had to fight with the springs! Took me 45 min to swap the cly the other side was like 10 min max.
I did a quick adjustment on them as I did not do that before and maybe why the low pedal ...... I hope!

Pulled out me Snap On vacuum bleeder and pulled fluid thru the rear as the front were done weeks ago. Pedal is still low with motor off so will get the wife to pump the brakes to bleed the old way.
If I still have issues will need to look at adjusting the push rods as the pedals, booster & master came from my parts truck so who knows?

I then worked on the fuel filler necks. What my FS came with I think was the FS part but was cut and spliced using exh pipe and rubber hose so I did not want to use it.
The front door & plastic box is FS as the mounting holes are different than the SS truck doors & plastic box. The filler neck I think was from the front tank of the parts truck along with the rubber hose and vent tube.
It went together easy with a little lube.

Then on to the rear filler neck & hose. My brother sent me a FS door, plastic box, straight neck,and part of the 90* rubber hose & vent tube just short of the tank. The FS hose would not reach the rear tank hole if Idid have it. I am using the SS rear tank, rubber hose & vent tube. I could not use the SS neck that has a 90* as it hit the bed floor and was to short to bolt to the plastic box.
So I used the FS straight neck & part of the vent tube (right side of picture), the FS 90* rubber hose (center of picture) and the SS tank hose & vent tube (left side of picture)

Short copper pipe & clamps to join the vent tubes together.

You can just make out the clamps inside the exh pipe used to join the 2 outer hoses together.

Now if you look the neck the vent tube is lower than the top of the rubber hose so how do you get the vent into it's holder in the neck? I used a coat hanger from the outside of the neck down into the vent of the neck and into the vent tube after the outer rubber hose was put into place. I hope the vent went into the neck holder.
It's a done deal now.

I don't have any pictures of this next part.
I also got FS running boards w/brackets and fender braces but 1 of the boards got bent pretty good from a fork lift from the looks.
I wanted the nuts & bolts and fender braces for my truck, mine was a mix of hard ware and missing the braces.
Getting the hardware off was a job as the carriage bolts turned in the holes use MAP gas to burn the fiber glass out so I get to the bolt heads with vice grips and got them out. I need to clean them up before I can use them.
Now that job turned into straightening the running board some to get to the hard ware that ran into straightening the whole board. Its a vary good spare but still going to use the ones I have.
By that time it was 2pm and 92*+ in the garage so I called it a day!
Dave ----

 

Ha!!! How funny!!!!! I have the garage heater on to keep it up to 70F in there.

 

2 days ago the AC took a crap and I thought it was a starter cap.
Yesterday they came out to fix it and sure enough bad cap, not here 30 min and $255! I don't know where to buy any of the parts down here .... yet!
It is also a heat pump but have a gas fire place just in case.
I am glad it is working again.

I got to hit the lottery so I can get AC / heat in my garage so I can spend more time in it and get this truck done.
Dave ----

 

What do you do when home from work by 10:30am and its not too hot? Work on the truck of course.
Started the truck and moved it out so not to get covered in body work dust. I love how smooth this 300 runs.
Brake pedal still goes to the floor but does stop so will need to look into that some day.

I used a grinder with 36 grit disc to take the hood down to metal and prep it for a skim coat of filler. The skim coat of filler is needed because when I took the skin off the frame I put little bend marks in the skin.
It also had an area that I straighten that needed a little more filler & shaping so I did that first then the skim coat.

Then I removed the tail gate and started stripping it or paint & rust using a Eastwood disc made for this. I still have more to do with a smaller disc then will treat the gate with the acid I have for this.


If not too hot over the weekend I hope to get the hood & gate in primer.

I also have been looking at masking machines in 12" & 18" wide paper. I have been using news paper but we don't get the paper here and what I have is small sheets so felt its time to move up to one.

Dave ----

 

How does stripping paint with a grinder go over? Does it get gummed up quick? Would like to strip down a tailgate I got and try some body work on it since it has minor dings. Bare metal looks cool though!

 

The only reason to strip down to bare metal is if there is rust, cracking of paint or a lot of paint layers.

In my case on the gate it was rust. On the hood you can't put filler, aka Bodo, over paint as it will not stick so you ruff up the metal to give it tooth.

When I get home on my pc I will post what I used on the gate & hood and why.
Dave - - - -

 

I bought a 18.5K BTU window unit for my garage and put it in the only window - took the window out and built wood supports and surround. It works pretty good, but some fall when the AC units are on sale have planned to upgrade to biggest unit Lowes has which is 24K BTU because on the hottest days the other one struggles to keep up. I only run it when I'm out there and will turn it on, then come back in a little bit and it knocks the temps down.

We don't really get cold here so not much need for heat, but as I'm sure you know, they do make dual AC/Heat window units as well, but more expensive. I think I paid somewhere about $320 for my 18.5K unit.

 

If I was to insulate the roof it would help a lot to keep it cooler.
I say this because you can feel the heat from the sun coming in when it the garage.
It would also keep the heat in but my little heater did pretty good this last winter keeping warm enough to wotk.

I also don't have a window in the bays side of the garage. I do have 2 in the small work room that also houses parts for projects and shelves for tools but only a door way from it to the bays.

Bays are 25' deep and 3+ cars wide so a lot of area to cool!
Dave - - - -

 

Ok lets see if I can explain what I used and why.
Again if the paint that is on the panels is on there good, not flaking, cracked or rust under it leave it.
You may want to remove down to metal if there are a lot of layers of paint & primer.
My project truck had the factory primer & paint then there was 2 paint jobs on top of the factory paint and each one also had primer before the paint job.
Then there was this flat black paint on top of all that so a total of 7 different layers of paint / primer.
There was body work / filler added each time and rust got under the filler and it started to crack so all that had to come off down to metal. Pull the dents so filler was not a thick and treat the rust before adding filler back.

On the tail gate it had the factory paint, a lot of dirt and rust. Because the rust was under the paint it had to come off.
I used 7" cleaning / stripping discs from Eastwood https://www.eastwood.com/7-in-cleani...sc-system.html
They come 1 gray & 1 red with a backing pad that gets put on the tool you will be using. I have an air power grinder I use for the pads.


I found the red ones are to fine and don't really gets the old paint & rust off. The gray ones work great on paint , rust and old body filler.
I have also found the red & gray ones in 2" & 3" for my 90* die grinder. I also have larger gray ones that fit in a drill.
They leave a nice smooth surface, too smooth for filler to stick to so I found out years ago.
I have a bunch of the red pads and a few gray for my die grinder so I will use them to finish the tail gate.

For the hood because I had to skim coat it with filler I had to remove the factory paint and give the metal tooth for the filler to stick to.
I used a 7" 36 grit disc like this but not that one. http://www.eastwood.com/7-in-cleanin...sc-system.html
I had this on an electric polisher as my other electric grinder had other type of disc on it and did not want to remove.
My other electric polisher had a polishing bonnet on it and did not want to remove it.

I also have 2 smaller air grinders with fiber grinding pads but if you don't have a stiff backing pad the fiber grinding discs warp and turn to junk.
That's what is on the 2 small grinders, junk discs.

Hope that helped some for your project.
Dave ----

 

Thanks! The paint on the tailgate is flaking off and I do see some rust in areas. Plus the color doesn't match lol. Goal would be to get it nice and then primer it till the whole truck got body work and a paint job.

 

I bought a used wide & narrow masking machine at a parts swap a few years back. I think I paid $20 for the pair. Old school, made in the USA tools. One of the best body work tool investments I've made. So much quicker & neater than using newspaper. Plus, the paper for them is cheap, not much more than the cost of a couple of Sunday newspapers.