1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

New owner 1980 F100 Flare Side

  #181  
Old 05-05-2016, 08:59 AM
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Gary Lewis
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I think you have it figured out - except that I don't think they cut any of the lines but just have different lines that Y to the rear tank for the vent, and hook to the switching valve for the supply.

And, glad you aren't looping the brake or fuel. I didn't mean to suggest that, just was wondering.
 
  #182  
Old 05-05-2016, 09:16 AM
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You could be right on different lines over cut as all I did was a quick look with them side by side. I went with all the LB lines as they were in better shape. Any that are in question will be replaced.


After what I did on the floors, rockers, cab corners and the now famous A/C fire wall did you really think I would loop the lines! LOL
Dave ----
 
  #183  
Old 05-05-2016, 09:28 AM
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Nope, didn't think you'd do that, but just wanted to know. Shouldn't have asked.

As for cutting the line, the assembly line doesn't cut or change anything. They bolt it together from parts that just fit in order to build vehicles quickly. My guess is that they put together long-beds on one line and short-beds on another, or stage the parts for the length of bed.
 
  #184  
Old 05-08-2016, 09:59 AM
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Yesterday work was to clean & mount the fuel tanks.
After looking over the LB side tank and seeing it would not fit with out a LOT of work it was time to prep the SB side tank.


In cleaning I found RTV around the sending unit, the tank looks newish. After digging the RTV out found they "glued" the sender in as it had no o-ring gasket or lock ring.
When I pulled the sender out for better cleaning I found the float and filter sock bad. No big deal as you can get new ones but I think I broke the gauge wire off at the rheostat so new sender was in order at this point.


Dumped out the nasty fuel in the side tank and glad I did. Inside the tank looks good just the old fuel. Cleaned and painted to outside looks new just need to swap the vents from the LB tank to the SB one as it is broken. Tried to mount the SB tank and found the LB side tank straps will not work with the SB tank so will order the right ones. Tank is held in with 2 ratchet straps for now.


The rear tank from the parts truck was empty. Don't know if it was ever used or leaked out when it was on its roof? Wired brushed the tank and the top had a little rust so I used Eastwood's rust encapsulate to fight off the rust. Inside looked good from the fill spout. I also cleaned and painted the LB tank cross member & straps.


I pulled the SB 2nd to rear cross member and replaced it with the LB one as it is where the tank straps attach to, still need to tighten the bolts. Checked out how the spare tire carrier fits this truck. Still need to clean & paint carrier, tire still has the nubs on it!


So I ordered SB side tank sender & straps and rear tank sender last night.
Dave ----
 
  #185  
Old 05-08-2016, 02:28 PM
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Just so's you know someone is reading the mail - well done!
 
  #186  
Old 05-08-2016, 08:02 PM
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Thanks Gary.
Today was a light work on truck day. I got that rear cross member bolted in and the tank mounted.


The LB side tank had 10+ gal of gas in it 5 gal went into the John Deere 425 garden tractor and the other 5 gal in the gas jug for the tractor. Used the tractor to plow the 25'x50' garden so we can plant vegies, that is why the light truck day.
Rear tank mounted

Side tank held in with ratchet straps till I get the right one.



Still home taking care of wife but hope to got out to the garage to replace the rubber hoses on the fuel lines and get them fasten to the frame rails and close to the tanks.
Also like to do the same for the vent lines.
Dave ----
 
  #187  
Old 05-08-2016, 09:13 PM
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IIRC, the 425 is the water-cooled one? With a nylon timing gear for some years?
 
  #188  
Old 05-09-2016, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
IIRC, the 425 is the water-cooled one? With a nylon timing gear for some years?
My bad it is a 445 but you are right water cooled 2 cly 22hp the later years went with alum/steel timing gears that is what mine has.
The 425 has a carb, the 445 is EFI and the 455 is a 3 cly diesel.

it has a 60" mowing deck, 4 way hyd front plow, rear mold board plow & a disc harrow for the garden, 3 point hyd rear hitch, 60" sweeper, dethacher & airater, DJ cart for hauling supplys

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  #189  
Old 05-09-2016, 07:15 AM
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Yep. Almost bought one, used. Borrowed it to try and when I returned it and turned it off there was such an explosion in the exhaust that it blew one of the side covers off and damaged it. I said "No thanks" and bought an X304 w/4-wheel steer. A friend bought the other one and had no end of problems until it finally refused to run and he found the broken timing gear. After replacing that it has been rock solid.
 
  #190  
Old 05-09-2016, 08:54 AM
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I bought mine used with only a little look into them, yea not good not knowing the good / bad of anything you are looking to buy.


I am the 3rd owner, first owner were older people in Pa. on a farm.
2nd was a younger guy used at his home till the divorce and it was too big for the rental yard he was at. Everything worked when I checked it out and looked in pretty good shape for the hours, little over 820. Side panels do crack/break, mine are.
Other than the sweeper, rear plow & disc harrow everything else came with it and I would have bought anyway.


When I started using it, 3+ hours at a time, when it got hot it would start to surge. That took some time to figure why. It was a bad EFI in tank fuel pump, JD only has fuel PSI test port on the end of the system so no way to know if pump or regulator.
Local JD dealer told me how to check and found the pump bad.
Also had the PTO (mower deck drive shaft) solenoid go bad and blow the main power fuse and shut done the tractor out in the north 40.


Other than the 2 things it has run non-stop in the year I have had it.
Because my land is mostly open I don't need a 4 wheel steer or 0 turn so this garden tractor is the best for me.
Sorry for the side track
Dave ----
 
  #191  
Old 05-09-2016, 09:00 AM
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It was my or our side track. Sometimes I rue the decision not to buy that tractor. Glad to see yours has been good.

Back to trucks .... When do you get the fuel tank senders? Just hoping they are the right ones.
 
  #192  
Old 05-09-2016, 09:24 AM
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Senders & straps should be here 4-5 buss. days. As long as I have them for next weekend I will be happy as that is when I think the next time I can do any work on it.


Only home today (still) as nurse could not make it here to help wife after hip surgery.
Most days I am out of house by 4am and not home till 6 or 7pm....yes long day!
Dave ----
 
  #193  
Old 05-14-2016, 08:14 PM
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Got the 2 senders and the straps a few days ago, took 2 days before I even opened the box. I am out the door at 4am and back home 5pm or later then have to cook as the wife is still on the mend I did not even want to bring the box in from the garage.


Any way before I could mount the side tank I had to get the brake & rear tank lines run. Had to trim the LB rear fuel line shorter to hook up to the duel tank valve.
Then found I did not have rubber line or clamps so made a run to auto parts store. I picked up fuel hose and vapor hose and clamps. Got the rear tank line and the outlet lines hooked to the valve.


Mounting the side tank I knew I needed pads between tank, straps & frame as 1 side of the 1981 pads fell apart. During the week I stopped at Tractor Supply and looked at wheel tubes and also found fake grass rug. The rug 5'x13' was $20 so have a lot left over. The fluffy green side went to the tank and cant be seen and worked great.


I replaced the rear tank sender but had a little issue as it did not want to lay flay on the seal. The sock/fuel line was hitting the bottom of the tank. Little adjustment of the bend and all was good.
Before mounting the side tank I thought best to replace the sender on the ground as it gave more room. No issues with it.


So both side & rear tanks are mounted, both senders have been replaced, rear tank at valve & motor feed line at valve have been hooked up.


Tomorrow I want to get the side tank fuel line hooked up at both ends and the rear tank at the tank.
I also have to swap the side tank top vent as this one the nipple is broken. Then I can fit the evap lines & hoses so the fuel system should be good.


If I still have time maybe run the front to rear wiring harness so it is in place.
Dave ----
 
  #194  
Old 05-14-2016, 09:23 PM
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Good progress. I'm envious.
 
  #195  
Old 05-15-2016, 05:35 PM
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All fuel lines are finished & secured, evap lines for the tanks are finished & secured.


Ran the front to rear wiring harness, the tanks are plugged in but forgot to secure it and plug in the tank switch valve.
Mounted the clutch cross shaft as it had aloop the wiring harness went thru.


Pulled the pollution canister off the frame of parts truck, cleaned and mounted to this truck.


Washed the heat/AC box of dirt & grease so it can be mounted. On that I “started” to take notes on the order of when pulling the parts truck apart so I would know the order it should go back together. I looked at it today and it has 2 entries! Pull steering column>pull gauge cluster so not much help now.


I wanted to know if the fire wall pad goes on before or after the heat/AC box? I think it goes on first then box so that will be the next thing so I am not kicking this box around.


Evap line from both tanks to front line.



Dave ----
 

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